My wife told me about a month ago that her explorer will idle poorly every once in awhile, almost like its going to shut off, but everytime I check it out, I can't get it to do it. It acted similar a couple years ago and I tryed a Idle Air Control valve and that didn't work. It wound up being the spark plugs and wires. I replaced the wires and plugs, the plugs are platinums, but I can't remember what brand, either autolites or ngks. Anyways, they've only been in for maybe 15,000-20,000miles. About 2 months ago, we had problems with her thermostat sticking open and while she had good heat inside, the engine wasn't getting as hot as it should. I replaced that and all is well with that now. I have cleaned the throttle body and even took the IAC off again and cleaned it, even though it did not look bad at all. I have also used Seafoam spray in the intake and some regular Seafoam through the brake booster line to the intake. This did not seem to fix it,however, it does seem a little "snappier" and the pinging when flooring it to pass has gone away. I've also sprayed around the intake and injectors with brakleen looking for a vacuum leak, did not find one, however it is hard to hit all spots of the intake gasket on the 4.0's. I'm thinking its either just a bad spark plug, dirty MAF sensor, or maybe the coil pack is getting weak. Any ideas guys? The MAF does not look dirty, has never had an oiled air filter in it, but I didn't know if they can get dirty and you just don't see it.
96 Explorer with intermitent poor idle
- Thread starter afoulk
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I had a similiar issue with a 93 (same engine.) Turned out it was a faulty plug. I had autolite platinums and changed them out for motorcraft platinums and didnt have an issue after that.
I myself have had similar issues not same engine but same problem. Do you use a fuel treatment and if so which brand? Not to knock on brands but gumout is no good. Tried it never had any results. Used Nutra and it fixed the issue guess the injectors were cloged along with my fuel pump. but the plugs might just be the rout to go.
I have used Gumout All In One on a Ford with stunning results. It treats 35 gallons so you can use it in back to back treatments.
It is best not to do shock treatments as you don't want to dislodge anything large, but gently dissolve away the carbon build up.
The amount of PEA in Gumout when used according to the dosage instructions is very good for that.
It is best not to do shock treatments as you don't want to dislodge anything large, but gently dissolve away the carbon build up.
The amount of PEA in Gumout when used according to the dosage instructions is very good for that.
I use Chevron Fuel System Cleaner or Gumout w/Regane once before every other oil change in it.
You might want to check for a dirty EGR. This is more typical of a GM or Yota than a Ford but worth a look. Pull the EGR valve off and make sure it's nice and clean where the pintle seats. Pushing it open manually to clean it won't hurt it in any way. Too much deposit formation can cause it to leak very slightly from time to time and it can be just enough to cause a rough idle without setting a P040x code.
SOHC 4.0- if the intake gaskets (upper and lower) werent replaced per TSB, think about it. If you have any way to read data, look for lean codes/lean idle trims.
These X motors did have some issues with fuel injectors, lifters, and valve seals specific to cylinders #3 and #6. I don't think this could be a lifter problem, and a valve seal problem shouldn't do this except immediately after startup, but an injector problem isn't out of the question. It might be worth looking at and posting pictures of the sparkies from cylinders #3, #6, and one other. These aren't the most convenient spark plugs to access, though.
OHV 4.0 just naturally idled rough due to cam specs, but since idle quality has changed, it is a problem.
If it was mine, I would pull codes first, looking for any lean/EGR/missfire codes. Anything to give me a start for a diag.
Has the battery died/been replaced? Jump started recently?
Agree with above about possible injector concern. Sometimes you get an injector with a weird spray pattern, and that manifests itself when port air velocity is low.....at idle. I have run relative flow tests for idle symptoms, and had all injectors within 3% of each other. After running a bottle of injector flush through them, rough idle fixed.
If you have any way to pull real time data, that might go a long way to helping you solve this. I hate trying to diag an intermittent.
If it was mine, I would pull codes first, looking for any lean/EGR/missfire codes. Anything to give me a start for a diag.
Has the battery died/been replaced? Jump started recently?
Agree with above about possible injector concern. Sometimes you get an injector with a weird spray pattern, and that manifests itself when port air velocity is low.....at idle. I have run relative flow tests for idle symptoms, and had all injectors within 3% of each other. After running a bottle of injector flush through them, rough idle fixed.
If you have any way to pull real time data, that might go a long way to helping you solve this. I hate trying to diag an intermittent.
Originally Posted By: punisher
OHV 4.0 just naturally idled rough due to cam specs, but since idle quality has changed, it is a problem.
Yeah, when I first got my Ranger I accidentally cranked it while it was already running because I was so used to my OHV Explorer's racket.
My Explorer had intermittent rough(er) idle too, but I never made much of an effort to track it down. No codes, I'd usually floor it a few times and that would do the trick. I suspected it had an intake manifold leak somewhere because once in a while there was light coolant spray near the back of the intake manifold, but it never lost a significant amount of coolant so I wasn't concerned. My Explorer had relatively new plugs and wires as well, but I don't know what brand. The previous owner had replaced them.
After 16 years, the MAF sensor probably is dirty, even if you can't see it. The area of concern is the tiny wire that actually does the metering. That's what you want to clean, but you can't touch it. Just use an electronic parts cleaner that does not leave a residue. It might not solve your problem, but it's cheap, easy, and probably needs to be done anyway.
OHV 4.0 just naturally idled rough due to cam specs, but since idle quality has changed, it is a problem.
Yeah, when I first got my Ranger I accidentally cranked it while it was already running because I was so used to my OHV Explorer's racket.
My Explorer had intermittent rough(er) idle too, but I never made much of an effort to track it down. No codes, I'd usually floor it a few times and that would do the trick. I suspected it had an intake manifold leak somewhere because once in a while there was light coolant spray near the back of the intake manifold, but it never lost a significant amount of coolant so I wasn't concerned. My Explorer had relatively new plugs and wires as well, but I don't know what brand. The previous owner had replaced them.
After 16 years, the MAF sensor probably is dirty, even if you can't see it. The area of concern is the tiny wire that actually does the metering. That's what you want to clean, but you can't touch it. Just use an electronic parts cleaner that does not leave a residue. It might not solve your problem, but it's cheap, easy, and probably needs to be done anyway.
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I'm going to take the egr valve off and see if maybe that is hanging open. I'll also clean the MAF. Can you guys recommend a good injector cleaner to run through it? Is the Chevron stuff good enough? I've used their fuel system cleaner, but never their injector cleaner
almost forgot, this is the old OHV 4.0
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Originally Posted By: punisher
OHV 4.0 just naturally idled rough due to cam specs, but since idle quality has changed, it is a problem.
Yeah, when I first got my Ranger I accidentally cranked it while it was already running because I was so used to my OHV Explorer's racket.
My Explorer had intermittent rough(er) idle too, but I never made much of an effort to track it down. No codes, I'd usually floor it a few times and that would do the trick. I suspected it had an intake manifold leak somewhere because once in a while there was light coolant spray near the back of the intake manifold, but it never lost a significant amount of coolant so I wasn't concerned. My Explorer had relatively new plugs and wires as well, but I don't know what brand. The previous owner had replaced them.
After 16 years, the MAF sensor probably is dirty, even if you can't see it. The area of concern is the tiny wire that actually does the metering. That's what you want to clean, but you can't touch it. Just use an electronic parts cleaner that does not leave a residue. It might not solve your problem, but it's cheap, easy, and probably needs to be done anyway.
CRC makes a cleaner specifically for cleaning this. It's not expensive and why not
Originally Posted By: punisher
OHV 4.0 just naturally idled rough due to cam specs, but since idle quality has changed, it is a problem.
Yeah, when I first got my Ranger I accidentally cranked it while it was already running because I was so used to my OHV Explorer's racket.
My Explorer had intermittent rough(er) idle too, but I never made much of an effort to track it down. No codes, I'd usually floor it a few times and that would do the trick. I suspected it had an intake manifold leak somewhere because once in a while there was light coolant spray near the back of the intake manifold, but it never lost a significant amount of coolant so I wasn't concerned. My Explorer had relatively new plugs and wires as well, but I don't know what brand. The previous owner had replaced them.
After 16 years, the MAF sensor probably is dirty, even if you can't see it. The area of concern is the tiny wire that actually does the metering. That's what you want to clean, but you can't touch it. Just use an electronic parts cleaner that does not leave a residue. It might not solve your problem, but it's cheap, easy, and probably needs to be done anyway.
CRC makes a cleaner specifically for cleaning this. It's not expensive and why not
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
CRC makes a cleaner specifically for cleaning this. It's not expensive and why not
Not knocking your post, but........
By itself, it may not be expensive. By itself, a bottle of Techron or additive of the day may not be expensive, but if they don't help, then it is money wasted. I fixed a fair amount of vehicles by connecting/replacing a vac line, cleaning a clogged EVR filter, tightening down that loose clamp on the intake tubing between the MAF and the throttle body etc. Could even be a flakey PCV valve.
IMHO, it is better to shell out $25, get an OBDII cable/bluetooth setup with the software and find out what is going on. Rich idle trims will scream "MAF Problem", likewise lean idle trims indicate vac leaks. It just saves so much time and hassle to get the bare minimum diagnostic equipment to begin with. Next problem that creeps up, you are good to go diag wise.
Just an opinion, I could be wrong.
CRC makes a cleaner specifically for cleaning this. It's not expensive and why not
Not knocking your post, but........
By itself, it may not be expensive. By itself, a bottle of Techron or additive of the day may not be expensive, but if they don't help, then it is money wasted. I fixed a fair amount of vehicles by connecting/replacing a vac line, cleaning a clogged EVR filter, tightening down that loose clamp on the intake tubing between the MAF and the throttle body etc. Could even be a flakey PCV valve.
IMHO, it is better to shell out $25, get an OBDII cable/bluetooth setup with the software and find out what is going on. Rich idle trims will scream "MAF Problem", likewise lean idle trims indicate vac leaks. It just saves so much time and hassle to get the bare minimum diagnostic equipment to begin with. Next problem that creeps up, you are good to go diag wise.
Just an opinion, I could be wrong.
Originally Posted By: punisher
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
CRC makes a cleaner specifically for cleaning this. It's not expensive and why not
Not knocking your post, but........
By itself, it may not be expensive. By itself, a bottle of Techron or additive of the day may not be expensive, but if they don't help, then it is money wasted. I fixed a fair amount of vehicles by connecting/replacing a vac line, cleaning a clogged EVR filter, tightening down that loose clamp on the intake tubing between the MAF and the throttle body etc. Could even be a flakey PCV valve.
IMHO, it is better to shell out $25, get an OBDII cable/bluetooth setup with the software and find out what is going on. Rich idle trims will scream "MAF Problem", likewise lean idle trims indicate vac leaks. It just saves so much time and hassle to get the bare minimum diagnostic equipment to begin with. Next problem that creeps up, you are good to go diag wise.
Just an opinion, I could be wrong.
I am not offended. Everybody has a right to their own opinion and that's what this whole forum is for : )
On the topic of wasting money, most auto chain stores do a free OBD scan and print out the problem codes for you. I do agree that buying cans of cleaners that might not fix the problem could be a waste of money but it might be something that could afford to be done anyways. Save the $25 and buy yourself a case of beer! haha
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
CRC makes a cleaner specifically for cleaning this. It's not expensive and why not
Not knocking your post, but........
By itself, it may not be expensive. By itself, a bottle of Techron or additive of the day may not be expensive, but if they don't help, then it is money wasted. I fixed a fair amount of vehicles by connecting/replacing a vac line, cleaning a clogged EVR filter, tightening down that loose clamp on the intake tubing between the MAF and the throttle body etc. Could even be a flakey PCV valve.
IMHO, it is better to shell out $25, get an OBDII cable/bluetooth setup with the software and find out what is going on. Rich idle trims will scream "MAF Problem", likewise lean idle trims indicate vac leaks. It just saves so much time and hassle to get the bare minimum diagnostic equipment to begin with. Next problem that creeps up, you are good to go diag wise.
Just an opinion, I could be wrong.
I am not offended. Everybody has a right to their own opinion and that's what this whole forum is for : )
On the topic of wasting money, most auto chain stores do a free OBD scan and print out the problem codes for you. I do agree that buying cans of cleaners that might not fix the problem could be a waste of money but it might be something that could afford to be done anyways. Save the $25 and buy yourself a case of beer! haha
Originally Posted By: Vikas
The auto chain will not give the fuel trim values. But as you pointed out, for some people it is more important to have a case of beer than to have a good tool to fix the car.
Hey now, I meant that as fun. There was no need. Plus he mentioned purchasing a tool for $25 that is a free service at almost all major auto parts stores. I agree that a quality scan tool is worth its weight in gold but $25 will not get you that tool.
The auto chain will not give the fuel trim values. But as you pointed out, for some people it is more important to have a case of beer than to have a good tool to fix the car.
Hey now, I meant that as fun. There was no need. Plus he mentioned purchasing a tool for $25 that is a free service at almost all major auto parts stores. I agree that a quality scan tool is worth its weight in gold but $25 will not get you that tool.
I meant somethong like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLC...41FXQW00JT1FY3G
They are getting cheap now.
EDIT: I bought this a couple months ago to replace my USB OBDII reader http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B006MPZ9VC/ref=pd_cp_e_3 , http://www.amazon.com/HDE-ELM-327-Diagno...138&sr=1-4. Old lappy + this= a decent scan tool.
They are getting cheap now.
EDIT: I bought this a couple months ago to replace my USB OBDII reader http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B006MPZ9VC/ref=pd_cp_e_3 , http://www.amazon.com/HDE-ELM-327-Diagno...138&sr=1-4. Old lappy + this= a decent scan tool.
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