2012 CRV low idle IN DRIVE - any other things I can try?

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Nov 18, 2024
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So I'm selling my 2012 CRV and I'd like it to present well and run well for the next owner. Car is at 107,000 miles and runs like a champ. No oil burning or other engine problems. Idle is noticeably low when in drive and at a stop, and seems to be slowly getting worse over time (currently sits at 500-600 RPM and give a little shake and stumble feeling). About 10,000 miles ago I put in spark plugs, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the throttle body - problem has continued without much help from these steps.

Anyone know of anything else I can try besides taking it into a shop to get it looked at or selling as is? Am I correct that a throttle relearn would only reset the idle in park (which is not an issue)?
 
When troubleshooting the idle issue, I would dump two bottles of TECHRON in the gas tank first. Helps eliminate some second guessing. A scan tool with live graphing will show you how the engine is running. Good luck, I will be monitoring this thread and will learn something too.
 
You may want to verify the actual idle speed with a scan tool and not just by relying on the tachometer.

You are also at the mileage where a valve adjustment could be beneficial; tight valves will degrade idle quality.
 
I'm going to go in a different route: leave it alone and sell it as it is. Unless if the idle is stupid low the next buyer might not know. And it's a used car. Unless if you sell it with the words "I promise this won't have problems for 3months/3,000 miles" or anything to that extent, then there is no warranty being implied. You don't have to say "as-is" (but I still think it wise). It's a used car, it may have problems the day after someone buys it.
 
Honda has a idle speed learn procedure that I had to figure out myself after someone did a coolant crossover tube replacement on my mom's CRV. Got the car back idling way too high
 
If it has an idle air control valve (iac) then it may need to be cleaned.

If it has hydraulic filled, often one of them is electrically modulated, engine mounts, it’s may be done. Also, I know at least in 2015 there was a TSB for excessive vehicle vibration at normal idle speeds (when the AC compressor is NOT running) which was fixed not by changing the idle speed but by changing engine mount, radiator mount, and/or headrests, depending on the way the vehicle resonated.
 
UPDATE: I dumped some Techron in there and drove it hard for a little while. No discernible difference but didn't get to the bottom of the tank. Got lucky and found a buyer with reasonable expectations and got a not great but fair price for the car.
 
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