96 Chevy 1500 5.7 350 Small Block Turbo Kit.

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Apr 12, 2024
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I'm looking into putting this kit on my truck, I pull a boat and a dump trailer, and it sometimes doesn't seem to have enough power, especially with the dump trailer. What all will I need to get this to work, will it be reliable, how much Power will it add and will my 4L60E hold up?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125143870611
 
The engine and drive line etc. stand up to the heat and increases power.
 
Don't do it.
- no intercooler or water injection.
- youll have to get a good tune and run premium.
- get a truck that suits your needs.
- youre spending too much time on fleabay.
My friend told me I would have to add an intercooler and an oil cooler. I was planning on doing that.
 
Considering you wished to use an 8-grade oil in that engine I would suggest against it.
I realized that was not smart of me to ask that, the cheapness of the 0w-8 and my friends were tempting me to run it. My friends who are really into oil were trying to get me to run it so that's why i posted that thread.
 
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I realized that was not smart of me to ask that, the cheapness of the 0w-8 and my friends was tempting me to run it. My friends who are really into oil were trying to get me to run it so that's why i posted that thread.
obviously they aren’t really into oil if they thought 0w-8 in an engine that specs 10w-30 was a good idea.
 
Are you experienced with fabrication and welding? That kit is for any SBC and would require both to make it work. It is not a simple bolt on kit.

As mentioned, lower gears would be a far more practical choice over a janky Fleabay kit. You have a almost 30 year old half ton, keep your power and towing expectations within reason.
 
Nope. Won't work. An engine built for a turbo, yes....with lot's of supporting fabrication and plenty of additional parts but not a stock 90's Vortec motor. Here is a list of upgrades you'll need if you want it to last. Don't forget, you have a 30 year old engine!!!!
  1. You really need to gap your piston rings for boost. The extra heat caused by forced injection dramatically heats up the pistons and rings more so the rings expand. If the two ends of the rings touch each other its game over and the piston leaves the chat.
  2. If you are going to put new rings on you really should be checking the wear and taper of the cylinder bores. At the very least you'll be honing the cylinders.
  3. You've gone this far...put some new main and rod bearings in it.
  4. Uh oh....you have a stock cast crank and rods and crappy pistons. If you want the engine to last...consider upgrading those.
  5. The Vortec cylinder heads are a little better than the Gen-1 heads but still don't flow a heck of a lot and they are cast iron. Not great for boost (heat). Consider getting new heads.
  6. Your camshaft is dinky. Between the small heads and tiny cam it just can't move enough air/fuel through the engine. Plan on upgrading your cam, lifters and pushrods. Your rocker arms too.
  7. You'll need to make sure the throttle body can handle boost. Not sure if it can. And it is probably undersized to handle that much more air.
  8. You'll need way more fuel. New injectors and fuel pump upgrades.
  9. Boost management. How are you controlling this? Electronic or manual?
  10. Heat, heat, heat. You'll need an air-to-air or air-to-water intercooler at minimum, lots of extra plumbing.
  11. Engine tuning. The stock computer is not set up for boost. You'll need an upgraded MAP sensor and you'll have to find some dinosaur that still tunes OBD1 engines. Is that even possible? Might need aftermarket computer control.
  12. Wideband O2 and boost gauge.
Oh I forgot....it's a 30 year old truck.
  1. Your transmission won't last behind a good turbo engine if it were brand new, never mind if it's 30 years old.
  2. Towing, old engines and boost don't go together on older vehicles.
You're giving a pig a face full of cocaine and expecting it to be a racing horse. It will go like hell for a very short distance and then die.

Bottom up build, engine swap, or a different vehicle.

So to answer your question. Bolting on as-is will give you 50hp, it will never be reliable and your transmission will leave the chat the first chance it gets.
 
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I realized that was not smart of me to ask that, the cheapness of the 0w-8 and my friends were tempting me to run it. My friends who are really into oil were trying to get me to run it so that's why i posted that thread.
We’re taking a classic GM engine that hasn’t changed too much since the 1950s vs. a modern Toyota I4 that was designed around 0W-8(polymer coatings/DLCs on the piston skirts and bearing journals, larger bearing surfaces, variable volume oil pump) when it comes to “thin” oil. Your 350 was meant to use “thicker” oils between 10W-30 to 20W-50.
 
These days people are stuffing the EcoBoost engines into everything. Widely available and super cheap if they blow. Plenty of aftermarket support. I think it's doing now what SR20, 2JZ, and SBC350 used to do years ago, but all of these are now overpriced. Not the EcoBoost babies though.


Just imagine a GMT400 with a 1.5/1.6/2.0/2.3 Ford engine under the hood... And then there will be that special one weirdo (likely me if I win a lottery and have a bunch of free time) who will stuff a 1.0L EcoBoost into a C3500 dually GMT400, just to see if it can go lol. Jk.
 
Change the rear gear ratios as mentioned and a shift kit for towing/hauling and computer tune. If hyper tech or jet has something for that year.
 
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