70 460 - break-in oil recommendations please

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
1,675
Location
San Antonio, Texas
Picking up my 1970 460 shortblock from the machine shop tomorrow. Stock with just a mild cam with forged pistons bored .030 over.

1. What break-in oil do you guys recommend?
2. How many miles before changing it?

Of course I'll use a WIX filter. The shop recommended changing just the filter after about 20 mins, then running it for 2,500 on the break-in oil.
 
Speed shops have an oil made just for engine break-in. I would use that. Several companies make it.

I would use the finest Wix there is since there is more garbage for the filter to catch during break in.

As for break in, I was always told to drain the break in oil early because it has low detergent content. I have heard of draining it at 500 miles, then doing a normal oil change 2000 miles later.
 
Stock main bearing clearances? Stock valve spring pressure? If so I would use a high zinc oil but not heavier than the original weight the engine called for from the factory. Amsoil makes a break in oil , its a straight 30wt.
 
10w30 rotella or delo thats what we use when we rebuild them .. Did they balance that engine?
We dont do many of them these days but there are a few
 
Stock Compression
All new stock valve springs
All new lifters
Torquer cam
All new forged pistons
Mains are 10 over
All bores are 30 over
Not balanced or ported
Stock oil pump (machine shop said to use)

I think the machine shop had recommended Joe Gibbs, I'll go with that.

I'll talk to them about when to change the break-in oil.

What's a better filter than WIX?
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
10w30 rotella or delo thats what we use when we rebuild them ..


+1 ....or 10w30 QS Defy. After break in I'd run 15W-50 Mobil 1, but I'm old school.
 
Originally Posted By: fonecord2
The New cam should lower compression .
how so? Its still a 10-1 engine. It may have less cranking compression due to cam overlap but the only way to lower compression is low compression pistons or different heads. And ethanol will causr vapor lock when it goes through the pump and that metal line to the carb on a hot day
 
What's wrong with the Delo you have been using. That should have a high content of anti wear additives.

Upon initial startup, take it up to 3000 rpm and hold it there for 30 minutes, keeping an eye on temp and oil pressure. That's the best way to break-in a new cam. The rest of the parts in the engine do not respond as much to break-in.
 
Just picked the engine up and had a long conversation with the shop. Here's what they said:

1. Use the Joe Gibbs break-in oil.
2. Change the oil filter after a few hours.
3. Change from break-in oil to Castrol GTX 20W-50 at 2,500 miles, and add ZDDP to the oil each time.

I'm going to do what they said except I may not use Castrol GTX. I know there is a good 20-50 out there with the necessary ZDDP.

btw, they didn't have to turn the crank after all, just polished it.

And I was mis-informed earlier, the engine WAS balanced, cool!
 
I don't see the need for 20w50, because 15w40 served you well. It wasn't the 15w40 that made the engine rebuild necessary, it was age.

Plus, you know you have extra ZDDP in 15w40 HDEO, whereas 20w50 can have dramatic differences in ZDDP levels. You may need to use a VOA to know how much ZDDP is in the 20w50 that you are considering.

Plus, there is a VOA on most common 15w40 HDEO oils here, so you know what you are getting.

I always liked synthetic oils better because they rarely cause varnish in any engine. Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 would work well.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
What's wrong with the Delo you have been using. That should have a high content of anti wear additives.

Upon initial startup, take it up to 3000 rpm and hold it there for 30 minutes, keeping an eye on temp and oil pressure. That's the best way to break-in a new cam. The rest of the parts in the engine do not respond as much to break-in.





So your suggesting running the engine at 3000rpm with no load. No wonder your TA has no compression in 2 and 4.

OP

The wheel isn't being reinvented here. I've rebuilt 3 of my own engines as well as 4 with friends,not including the cam swap in my 99 chev z71.
I also installed the big bore kit on my Harley,with a drunk experienced friend there overseeing the whole operation.
In every case I took the vehicle/bike onto the highway and ran 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. Going 3/4 throttle thru both gears then down shifting to load the rings do I was loading both ways,with acceleration and deceleration.
I ran from my place in the city to my girls place(30 miles)then changed the oil and filter. Drove normally after that.
Nothing is consuming any oil yet,and in the Harley I'm running thinner than spec oil,the cars and truck are running spec oil with no consumption either.
Sounds like you've got a great engine there. What is it in,or what are you putting it in.
 
Many cam manufacturers recommend bringing the RPM up to an initial 2500-3000 RPM and then slowly varying during break in from 1500-3000 for 20-30 minutes, depending on application. The camshaft lobes are splash lubed.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: fonecord2
The New cam should lower compression .
how so? Its still a 10-1 engine. ...


Dynamic compression is what matters (vs static), see:

http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

Note the key camshaft specification is Intake closing angle...

As for break in, if it is a flat tappet cam I would follow the camshaft manufacturers instructions EXACTLY.
49.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom