Yesterday I replaced the rear main seal in my 454, wasn't bad but thought since I already removed bad transmission to replace that I may as well replace everything that would be terrible to replace later with the transmission in place or having to remove it again. Anyway, upon removal of the oil pan i realized I was going to need oil pump removed for clearance of pan removal. Well, when I removed the stud holding the oil pump in place the pump slipped and fell to the bottom of the pan, not very far but enough to break the drive shaft coupling. Why they use that chincy nylon coupling I'll never know. Well, I needed to leave for work and didn't want the engine underbelly exposed to the Missouri humidity for 8 hours so I put the pump back in without the coupling, reinstalled the pan and new gasket and put 6.5 qts down her gullet. I've since bought the coupling but wonder if it's absolutely necessary or if more of a convenience part for assembly. Any help is appreciated. I've got several more questions as well. Thanks,
7.4L 454 vortec oil pump
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The retainer sleeve is required, it aligns the oil pump drive.
My recommendation is to replace it with the HD steel version PN Melling IS-77 which has a pinned steel sleeve.
At a minimum, re-install the nylon retainer.
My recommendation is to replace it with the HD steel version PN Melling IS-77 which has a pinned steel sleeve.
At a minimum, re-install the nylon retainer.
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Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
The retainer sleeve is required, it aligns the oil pump drive.
My recommendation is to replace it with the HD steel version PN Melling IS-77 which has a pinned steel sleeve.
At a minimum, re-install the nylon retainer.
Get the Melling with the pinned sleeve.
The retainer sleeve is required, it aligns the oil pump drive.
My recommendation is to replace it with the HD steel version PN Melling IS-77 which has a pinned steel sleeve.
At a minimum, re-install the nylon retainer.
Get the Melling with the pinned sleeve.
Gm has used that plastic sleeve forever.
The nylon retainer is broken, that's why I asked if it was absolutely necessary because I had already reassembled so I could go to work and didn't have to worry about the crankcase rusting up while I was at work. Do they sell just the Melling shaft at O'Reillys or the like? Would seem to me that they wouldn't simply because 60% of the common GM parts I need they have to order. So it sounds like I'll taking that ridiculous pan off again. Good god that thing is stupid, all but 3 bolts I think on the drivers side are covered up by front differential, oil filter adapter or engine oil cooler lines. Smdh. Thanks for your advice will see you around the forum I'm sure since I'm always working on this blessed thing
Nick1994
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You reassembled it all because you didn't want it to rust within 8 hours? It probably has a slight oily film in there, I doubt it would have mattered.
Also why did you put oil back in?
Also why did you put oil back in?
It's Missouri, the weather changes every 5 minutes and in summer it's about 90% humidity. I didn't want to take any chances. So I've got to take the pan back off, not that big of a deal, better than tearing the block apart and polishing every surface I would think. Lol
Gonna drain the oil in a brand new catch and then dump it right back in when done. The motor hasn't even been turned over since I worked on the oil pan, the oil should be dang near the same color as fresh out of the container. Lol. Just being cautious cuz this is my baby we're talking about. Lol
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