5w30, necessary?

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I wouldn't use a 20wt, because GM doesn't spec it to use it. There wouldn't be any harm in using 10w30, it's still a 30wt oil. However, I see that you live in Canada, and I would recommend against using an oil that is going to be significantly thicker at cold startup than a 5w30. The only two oil weights I'd consider for you would be 5w30 or 0W-30.
 
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Use what it tells you to in the manual. If it specifies "5w30" you can use 0w30 or 10w30. Where you live 0w30 may be a good choice. It depends, are you under warranty? I would stick to a 5w30 like M1 or Pennzoil platinum. But there are other choices as well of course. To keep it simple and effective just use 5w30.
 
The manual isn't always right. It's usually a good place to start, but in the example of turbocharged Subarus, the recommended oil, which is an energy conserving 5w30 is totally inappropriate and not up to the task of properly lubricating the engine, much less staying in the oil sump.

I wouldn't use a 5w20 in a car spec'd for 5w30 if you drive it hard. It's ok to use 10w30 in a car spec'd for 5w30, but it won't have as good cold start protection. I'd sooner substitute a 0w30 for 5w30 than a 5w20 or 10w30.

If you are experiencing very heavy oil consumption, you might benefit from a 5w40, or even 15w40 in extremely hot weather.
 
Originally Posted By: 05foresterXT
The manual isn't always right. It's usually a good place to start, but in the example of turbocharged Subarus, the recommended oil, which is an energy conserving 5w30 is totally inappropriate and not up to the task of properly lubricating the engine, much less staying in the oil sump.

I wouldn't use a 5w20 in a car spec'd for 5w30 if you drive it hard. It's ok to use 10w30 in a car spec'd for 5w30, but it won't have as good cold start protection. I'd sooner substitute a 0w30 for 5w30 than a 5w20 or 10w30.

If you are experiencing very heavy oil consumption, you might benefit from a 5w40, or even 15w40 in extremely hot weather.


Ah, why do you say that a ILSAC GF-5 oil is innapropriate for turbocharged engines?
 
Directly from the owners manual:

Viscosity Grade
SAE 5w30 is the best viscosity
grade for the vehicle. Do not use
other viscosity grade oils such as
SAE 10w30, 10W-40, or 20W-50.
If in an area of extreme cold, where
the temperature falls below -20°F
(-29°C), an SAE 0w30 oil should
be used

So no, it should not use 10w30. Use what GM says. Don't try to re-invent the wheel.

Dave
 
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So using a "good" oil is bad for the engine where using a marginal at best ILSAC GF5 oil is good for the engine? NO!
ILSAC spec is deplorable compared to basic ACEA gas spec. IN seasonal Spring thru Fall a Winter grading of 0w/5w/10w is COMPLETELY IRRELEVANT. I would never tell someone they cant use say Amsoil ATM 10w30 or M1 0w40 or M1 R4T or Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 - the best commonly available oils on the market for use in high specific output engines. This Fuel economy viscoscity CAFE boiler plate in the OM is ridiculous. Forget quoting it. It's only a FED requirement tied to the CAFE numbers.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
So using a "good" oil is bad for the engine where using a marginal at best ILSAC GF5 oil is good for the engine? NO!
ILSAC spec is deplorable compared to basic ACEA gas spec. IN seasonal Spring thru Fall a Winter grading of 0w/5w/10w is COMPLETELY IRRELEVANT. I would never tell someone they cant use say Amsoil ATM 10w30 or M1 0w40 or M1 R4T or Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 - the best connomly available oils on the market in a high specific output engine. This Fuel economy viscoscity CAFE boiler plate in the OM is ridiculous. Forget quoting it.


Marginal at best. Right, I'll be sure to remind you that you said that when my turbo is still original at 150k miles on "marginal" oil.
wink.gif


What would you recommend then?
 
Originally Posted By: Nick R

Ah, why do you say that a ILSAC GF-5 oil is innapropriate for turbocharged engines?


I didn't say anything about ILSAC GF-5, and I didn't say anything about all turbocharged engines.
 
Since you may fear the warranty gods, I might start by substituting 1 qt of your Dexos-I 5w30 sump with M1R4T. But You dont drive like John Force and Ricky Rudd everyday like I do. I eat zinc and shear vii.
 
Originally Posted By: jupiterdagger
Do I have to use 5w30 in my CTS-V? or Can I use 5w20 or 10w30?

First welcome to BITOG!

So you've got that monster 556 HP supercharged V8 under the hood? As excellent choice for fetching milk late at night in a hurry.

As others have suggested, forget the 10w30, it's a largely obsolete grade in a synthetic anyway.

Could you run a 5W-20 or (0W-20 synthetic for that matter)? It's not specified and if your cars still under warranty I wouldn't bother but technically you could, particularily in the winter.
Just make sure your oil pressure at high rev's stays above 50 psi (I believe your car does have an OP gauge).

Another option is to run a 0w30 such as the Petro-Canada Supreme 0W-30. This oil is actually heavier at operating temp's than a typical 5w30 but is slightly lighter on start-up in our climate, but the effect will likely not be noticeable.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: jupiterdagger
Do I have to use 5w30 in my CTS-V? or Can I use 5w20 or 10w30?

First welcome to BITOG!

So you've got that monster 556 HP supercharged V8 under the hood? As excellent choice for fetching milk late at night in a hurry.

As others have suggested, forget the 10w30, it's a largely obsolete grade in a synthetic anyway.

Could you run a 5W-20 or (0W-20 synthetic for that matter)? It's not specified and if your cars still under warranty I wouldn't bother but technically you could, particularily in the winter.
Just make sure your oil pressure at high rev's stays above 50 psi (I believe your car does have an OP gauge).

Another option is to run a 0w30 such as the Petro-Canada Supreme 0W-30. This oil is actually heavier at operating temp's than a typical 5w30 but is slightly lighter on start-up in our climate, but the effect will likely not be noticeable.


If he does actually have the supercharged LSA CTS-V, and NOT the LS3/LS6 version, I would stay away from most 0W-20s (especially your 'faves' the TOY/Idemitsu variety), NO MATTER WHAT his oil pressure/temp gauges say. The stock boost on that engine is fairly high, as is the stock WOT enrichment programming.

The better (and slightly higher HTHS) 0W-30s ARE a good choice, and the lightest I would ever 'experiment' with would be what you call "thick", the "low VI" <
lol.gif
Red Line 0W-20.

The TOY stuff might be OK if he lived inside the Artic Circle during winter time, but otherwise, I would avoid it like the plague in THAT powerplant.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
jupiterdagger said:
I would stay away from most 0W-20s (especially your 'faves' the TOY/Idemitsu variety), NO MATTER WHAT his oil pressure/temp gauges say. The stock boost on that engine is fairly high, as is the stock WOT enrichment programming.
The TOY stuff might be OK if he lived inside the Artic Circle during winter time, but otherwise, I would avoid it like the plague in THAT powerplant.
wink.gif


An engine no matter how powerful doesn't know what grade of oil is in the sump just what the operational viscosity is at any given moment. That's why you can run a 0W-5 qualifying oil in a NASCAR engine flat out for a few laps as long as the oil temp's don't exceed say 180F.
An oil pressure gauge is effectively an onboard viscometer.
GM V8s can run safely with OP in the low 40 psi range without issue at high rev's consiquently 50 psi is a very conservative lower limit which translates into a fairly viscous oil.
Since street driving so under stresses a high performance engine it is very easy to run a light oil as the oil temp's usually stay very low.
Since most owners of high performance cars are (I hate to say) poseurs that drive no faster than you're typical Prius owner, they don't need to run a heavy oil and the lubrication demands of the engine would be better met in running a lighter than spec' oil.
OP is how you determine what the correct oil viscosity is for any application.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
OP is how you determine what the correct oil viscosity is for any application.


And, as you pointed out, PC 0w30 is thicker at operating temperatures than a lot of 5w30s. Secondly, if he's concerned about warranty, PC 5w30 synthetic is on the dexos1 list, and even has the Honda turbo spec.
 
Originally Posted By: jupiterdagger
For the record, I just have a 2006 Mustang V6 300HP right now but the CTS-V is next in line for my next big purchase.


What have you done to your 2006 Mustang V-6 to get 300 hp out of it?
 
"""Since most owners of high performance cars are (I hate to say) poseurs that drive no faster than you're typical Prius owner, they don't need to run a heavy oil and the lubrication demands of the engine would be better met in running a lighter than spec' oil."""

A truer statement has never been made on BITOG until this beuaty showed up-thanks CAT. i'll try to keep that in mind as I'm behind one doing 15 mph under the speed limit on a back raod (no poassig zones)
 
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