5W30 instead of 10W30 for a 4 stroke

Where im at there is 2 types of 5w30. A5B5 stuff which is resource conserving and thinner than A3B3/B4 which is thicker. Between the two its 100c cst 9.9 vs 11.5ish. hths is also different between the two.
Dunno which is safe to run in lawn mower but sae30 here is around 11 cst at 100c
yes....I forgot that option.....A3/B4 in 5w30....hths is also 3.5 min!

But it is a rarity over here....because 90% of 5w30 grades here are DPF oriented (Low/Mid saps).....look my above post for specs.
 
IF the OP is using Mobil1 ESP 5W30 that's not much of a problem it's not your standard ILSAC 5w30 oil you find commonly here in the US that's geared towards fuel economy, it's got an HTHS viscosity of 3.5.
Both M1 5W-30 and 5W-30 EP have an HTHS of 3.0 (I believe) these oils are for gas engines
M1 5W-30 ESP is for diesel engines and is unsurprisingly more robust, with an HTHS of 3.5
 
M1 5W-30 ESP is for diesel engines and is unsurprisingly more robust, with an HTHS of 3.5
All PCMOs over here are dual rated....VW has 504 part...and 507 also.....
You may be misled....since "our" PCMOs (in general) look like HDEOs to you.....higher HTHS....higher TBN (Full saps examples)....higher viscosity...
 
I have a lawn mower for which SAE30/10W30 engine oil is recommended. I use fully synthetic 5W30 engine oil for my cars and once the lawn mower has been running after a couple of hours of running I'd like to change to 5W30 - if I understand the only difference is the start up will be easier (oil thinner). Will it then be OK to use 5W30?
Here in the states we have many fans of 15w-40 for OPE applications. I put two quarts of 15-w40 Rotella RT6 in my lawn tractor prior to storing it for the winter. My chipper / leaf vacuum with Honda GSV190 will be the next machine to get this oil. My years on BITOG suggest that 15w-40 is the preferred replacement for straight SAE 30. The latter is getting hard to find at reasonable prices.
 
Where im at there is 2 types of 5w30. A5B5 stuff which is resource conserving and thinner than A3B3/B4 which is thicker. Between the two its 100c cst 9.9 vs 11.5ish. hths is also different between the two.
Dunno which is safe to run in lawn mower but sae30 here is around 11 cst at 100c
SAE 30 monograde has by far the thickest base oil. The other two are made of much thinner base oils thickened by a VII plastic. As a result SAE 30 will protect better and generate less smoke. There is little reason to run a multigrade oil in a small lawnmower engine.

If you insist on a multigrade, use a SAE 15W-40 API CK-4 HDEO.
 
Used 5w30 or higher grade oil which you’re car used or have laying around full synthetic oil.
 
I too like the 15/40 HDEO for air cool engines. In the zero turn I find it runs quieter. 30wt is harder to find and priced more than the 15/40. I like Chevron Delo 400 15/40 but any 15/40 will work. Now the generators are still on 10/30 M1 HM because they may be used in the winter. If it is a long outage because of a hurricane in summer then the generators would be switch over to 15/40 on next oil change. My car and truck are on PP 5/30 Euro L which if I get in a bind it should work in the air cools.
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

I was planning to use a fully synthetic 5W30 (which is what I use in my car) to avoid keeping two different grades of engine oil, and to use a fully synthetic engine oil in my mower, but after all the scare mongering I think I'll play it safe and stick to SAE 30 - although I had thought that a fully synthetic 5W30 would provide more engine protection than a simple SAE 30 :(
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

I was planning to use a fully synthetic 5W30 (which is what I use in my car) to avoid keeping two different grades of engine oil, and to use a fully synthetic engine oil in my mower, but after all the scare mongering I think I'll play it safe and stick to SAE 30 - although I had thought that a fully synthetic 5W30 would provide more engine protection than a simple SAE 30 :(
What scare mongering are you referring to?

And no, the 5W-30 will not provide more "engine protection" than the SAE 30 monograde. Both will "protect" like any 30-grade.
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

I was planning to use a fully synthetic 5W30 (which is what I use in my car) to avoid keeping two different grades of engine oil, and to use a fully synthetic engine oil in my mower, but after all the scare mongering I think I'll play it safe and stick to SAE 30 - although I had thought that a fully synthetic 5W30 would provide more engine protection than a simple SAE 30 :(
HTHS is what you want to pay attention for...

You can use 5w30......but stay away from energy conserving oils (usually those are API/ILSAC only).....
 
Friend , try the 5W30 you use in your car....it should be fine but keep an eye on oil consumption . If it looks to be using a fair bit of oil then go with something more robust . Bottom line is you are not going to harm it trying the 5W30.
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

I was planning to use a fully synthetic 5W30 (which is what I use in my car) to avoid keeping two different grades of engine oil, and to use a fully synthetic engine oil in my mower, but after all the scare mongering I think I'll play it safe and stick to SAE 30 - although I had thought that a fully synthetic 5W30 would provide more engine protection than a simple SAE 30 :(
I am using 5w30 full synthetic it burn little oil but just keep eye on oil level it will be fine .
 
Contacted technical help lines in Australia for Shell, Castrol, Penrite and they all say a mineral SAE 30 is preferable to a synthetic multi-grade 5W30:

"...these small engines favor the more basic types of oils, they don’t like fully synthetic products as much as cars would. It’s a given when it comes to small engines like lawn mowers, garden tools or small generators, their manufacturers would usually prefer mineral grade SAE 30 grade oils".
 
I’ve had 5w-30 synblend in my 22hp Briggs intek for 50hrs now with 0 consumption or issues. Was what I had laying around at oil change time as well.
 
Contacted technical help lines in Australia for Shell, Castrol, Penrite and they all say a mineral SAE 30 is preferable to a synthetic multi-grade 5W30:

"...these small engines favor the more basic types of oils, they don’t like fully synthetic products as much as cars would. It’s a given when it comes to small engines like lawn mowers, garden tools or small generators, their manufacturers would usually prefer mineral grade SAE 30 grade oils".
If a technical help line representative gave you that answer then that’s terrible. No such person should ever use the term “like” nor the rest of the entirely non-technical answer that was given. That’s a ridiculous statement.
 
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