I've recently added a new vehicle to my fleet, the one that is in my signature, and it's due for an oil change. The engine is the 4.0L SOHC and it'll soon be at 79K miles. I'd like to use either PU or PP in it but all I have right now is my stash of 5W20 PU. My question is, why didn't Ford spec this engine to run 5W20 like everything else? I've searched and read on other forums where people mention running thinner oil will cause issues with the timing chain tensioners and that they run "hot" so that is why they still call for the 5W30. This is my first SOHC V6 I've ever owned so I'm new to their peculiarities. Thanks for any info!
5W20 in Ford Explorer
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IIRC it had to do with the timing chain/tensioners and the oil pump was not designed for 5W20 oil. Stick with 5W30 in that application.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
IIRC it had to do with the timing chain/tensioners and the oil pump was not designed for 5W20 oil. Stick with 5W30 in that application.
x2.
The Ford 4.0s have seen a few different design changes over the years, and they have some issues with the timing chains as mentioned, now, I am not saying ALL of them have the issues, just from what i have read certain years do have an issue, an expensive one.
IIRC it had to do with the timing chain/tensioners and the oil pump was not designed for 5W20 oil. Stick with 5W30 in that application.
x2.
The Ford 4.0s have seen a few different design changes over the years, and they have some issues with the timing chains as mentioned, now, I am not saying ALL of them have the issues, just from what i have read certain years do have an issue, an expensive one.
Ford was one of the first on the 5w20 band wagon and they back spec'd a bunch of vehicles as well... so if they didn't there is likely good reason.
Try it out. I'm running a 0w-20-5w-20 frankenbrew in my high mile 88 fox mustang with a 5.0.
How hard to you drive. If you are easy on the engine I'd go for it however if you like to see how strong the floor pan is I wouldn't simply because of the unknown.
My mustang lost a few pounds of oil pressure at idle however while driving there was very little pressure loss.
I beat that car like it owes me money. It gained some off idle pep and rev'd up faster which was a nice bonus.
Edit.
I don't think I would risk the PU just in case it does provide adequate oil pressure or what not. I would sacrifice the PP though since its easily attainable.
How hard to you drive. If you are easy on the engine I'd go for it however if you like to see how strong the floor pan is I wouldn't simply because of the unknown.
My mustang lost a few pounds of oil pressure at idle however while driving there was very little pressure loss.
I beat that car like it owes me money. It gained some off idle pep and rev'd up faster which was a nice bonus.
Edit.
I don't think I would risk the PU just in case it does provide adequate oil pressure or what not. I would sacrifice the PP though since its easily attainable.
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I've had over a decade with the SOHC 4.0 beginning in 97 with the intro year. My 97 went 215k plus and engine was great til it was crashed. I sold it around 205k IIRC. My 02 I sold to a guy at work with over 150k on the clock...2 years later his daughter has about 180k on it. Had an 06 in a Mountaineer that was high 80's and deer hit on highway totaled it.
With exception of the 02 blowing a trans at 150's k (and it was a I give; totally blew out with no change in shifts prior to death) I've have zero issue with any of them. None of them saw anything but 5-30. Mostly dino as well. I would NOT go to 5-20 if I were you.
If it matters, I still stayed 5-30 even in winter when I run a lot of trips to NH to ice climb. Temps in the notches can get to pretty high negative numbers. One winter....IIRC 2001 or 2002 it was like every time I went it was -5/-7 at the base no matter what notch I was in and no matter cloudy or sun pokin through.
5-30 all the way.
With exception of the 02 blowing a trans at 150's k (and it was a I give; totally blew out with no change in shifts prior to death) I've have zero issue with any of them. None of them saw anything but 5-30. Mostly dino as well. I would NOT go to 5-20 if I were you.
If it matters, I still stayed 5-30 even in winter when I run a lot of trips to NH to ice climb. Temps in the notches can get to pretty high negative numbers. One winter....IIRC 2001 or 2002 it was like every time I went it was -5/-7 at the base no matter what notch I was in and no matter cloudy or sun pokin through.
5-30 all the way.
I would not recommend trying it out. The comparison to a 302 is flawed because the 302 is a totally unrelated engine. The 4.0 SOHC has a peculiar timing chain system that's not like any other Ford engine. As other people have mentioned, this engine was not back-specced to 5w-20 because of the timing chain tensioners. The tensioners are partially powered by springs and partially by oil pressure. Early versions ('97-'01 or so) of the tensioners were not strong enough and would let the chain slap around, which broke the plastic guides. They updated the tensioner in '02 or '03 with stronger springs, but it is still sensitive to oil pressure to maintain proper tension. Changing the tensioners on this engine is a huge pain because there is one on the back of the engine that is almost impossible to do without pulling the engine, so you really don't want them to fail.
The 4.0 is a stout engine otherwise and an '08 will have all the latest versions of the tensioners and guides. But stick with a 30 weight.
The 4.0 is a stout engine otherwise and an '08 will have all the latest versions of the tensioners and guides. But stick with a 30 weight.
I run nothing but 5-30 conventional and synthetic in mine. Never had a problem with either or. Run 5-30 with a Motorcraft filter and you will be good to go for many many years as long as you keep up with your other routine maintenance. The 4.0L are a great/dependable motor and I just change every 5 thousand with conventional and 7500 with synthetic. Good luck with your purchase bds1984, the Explorer will make you proud.
Clevy is using some relatively shear proof oils, at least compared to the 5w30 conventionals that were contemporary to the engine. I would be afraid to go thinner, but his approach is well reasoned.
In case anyone cares, I have been running 5w-20 in my LD9 engine for 15 months (approx 11,000 kms) as an experiment. It had Mobil Super 5000 for the first 5,000 and Quaker State Conventional for the second OCI and is my current fill. The engine has not exploded yet. The engine is a GM 2.4L 4-cyl 16V DOHC with only 85,000 Kms. which requires 5w30. Just my 2c.
That's what I've heard from one of my friends who owns a repair shop. I saw one on an engine stand the other day and it certainly looks like a pain to change the tensioners while the engine is still in the vehicle. That engine really has a weird design for being a SOHC design especially when compared to something like the modular engines. I pretty much planned on 5W30 anyways but I was hoping I could have ran with 5W20 since the rest of my daily drivers require 5W20. But this truck will most likely only see two oil changes a year anyways so to keep a few jugs of 5W30 on hand wont be a terrible burden for me!....just gives me the excuse to go out and purchase more oil for my stash
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