If you got a real bargain on oil for your mowers (currently using straight 30 grade) and the choices were 5w-30 and 10w-30, is there any particular reason to choose one over the other?
This. Not sure how relevant it is with today's oils, but the prevailing thought was that a 5w-30 will shear a bit quicker than 10w-30 thus leading to a higher propensity for running low.Small engine owner's manuals suggest that 5w-30 might burn off quicker, and require more monitoring.
Unless you are trying to manually start a snow-blower in minus F temperatures. Then fresh fuel and a 5 W or even better a 0 W is what you want for that first number.Thicker is better.
What mower are we talking about? Riding Mower that has a Starter or a push mower that you pull the cord to start?If you got a real bargain on oil for your mowers (currently using straight 30 grade) and the choices were 5w-30 and 10w-30, is there any particular reason to choose one over the other?
Both, but a rider gets the most use. None of it gets used in cold weather.What mower are we talking about? Riding Mower that has a Starter or a push mower that you pull the cord to start?
The 5w-30 *might* rely on a higher quality base oil with added reliance on viscosity index improvers. Emphasis on the word 'might." Personally I prefer to lower the spread between the cold and hot viscosities for OPE. Most of my warm weather lawn toys are getting RT6 15w-40 these days. I like 10w-30 M1 High Mileage in the Honda powered machines. Only the snowblower sees 5w-30. The snowblower and generator stay in the attached garage, so nothing in my fleet is ever started with an oil temperature below 32F.If you got a real bargain on oil for your mowers (currently using straight 30 grade) and the choices were 5w-30 and 10w-30, is there any particular reason to choose one over the other?
If you read between the lines, then obviously a synthetic 10w-30 or 15w-40 should work well.It’s been posted before, but here’s Briggs & Stratton’s recommendation.
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