$500 beater, Oil suggestions?

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If you have a Costco membership, than kirklands signature oil and a Purolator Pureone oil filter. 10 qts and 10k mile oil filter. It has never done me wrong.
 
Because some users like to resurrect old threads with useless responses. When asked why they do it they say "because it is fun".
I guess. Seems kind of pathetic, but I don’t get the other posters giving him advice.
 
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It’s not about feeling “above others”. Does it make sense to drag up a six month old thread about what to put in a $500 beater and recommend the OP use Amsoil? And does it make sense to give advice to the OP, who hasn’t been here for the last six months, when he was already given plenty of suggestions when he originally asked?
 
A conventional 10W-40 PCMO is a good choice for a car like this.

If it doesn't consume too much oil, you can also use a conventional 10W-30 PCMO, which is a lot thinner than a 10W-40 PCMO but will raise the oil consumption if that's a problem.

A 10W-30 HDEO, which is a lot thicker than a 10W-30 PCMO, is also a good choice. A 15W-40 HDEO is also a great choice if the winters are not too cold.
 
Cheap oil in a cheap car - just something about it that doesn't make total sense to me. I mean, you want it to run as long as possible right? There's a thought that the less a vehicle is worth, or the older it is, the cheaper the oil people tend to use. But I can't make total sense out of that. It seems to me that an older, higher mile vehicle, which is beginning to wear, would warrant a high end oil as much if not more than a newer vehicle.

The only exception I can think of this is if you plan on getting rid of the car very soon.

And I know that many will say it's all irrelevant because no oil is that much better than another. Just thinking out loud.

Well, see my post above. Sometimes a "better" oil could cause issues. I've seen engines go 450K on dino. It would depend on the car and how it treats oil, but if your car specifically is easy on oil (as in, not something like a Chrysler 2.7 or Toyota ZZ that runs too hot and cooks off dino) I don't see a reason to not just use normal conventional oil. I could understand switching to a heavier weight, but to roll the dice with synthetics on the seals is risky to me now. Then again, I don't tend to do/like long drains for oil anyway, I'd rather use cheaper oil and a shorter drain interval vs use expensive oil and a longer drain.
 
Does it make sense to drag up a six month old thread about what to put in a $500 beater and recommend the OP use Amsoil? And does it make sense to give advice to the OP, who hasn’t been here for the last six months, when he was already given plenty of suggestions when he originally asked?
The Amsoil comment was the exception. The rest of the advice was thoughtful and accurate. No need to destroy or bury a good thread just because of one senseless post.

...give advice to the OP who is gone? No, the advice is still very relevent for the multitude of beater owners who might find this thread. Many, many times threads answer questions for those who come along later and read them.
 
The Amsoil comment was the exception. The rest of the advice was thoughtful and accurate. No need to destroy or bury a good thread just because of one senseless post.

...give advice to the OP who is gone? No, the advice is still very relevent for the multitude of beater owners who might find this thread. Many, many times threads answer questions for those who come along later and read them.
I agree, and it is not like he brought back a thread from 2005 where none of the oil info that was previously given is relevant anymore.
 
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I fail to see any value in a new group of posters repeating the same advice over and over that the first group gave him, which is basically run something cheap because it really doesn’t matter.
 
Molly McButter, lol. No seriously, just use any oil that meets the requirements. If you want to go synthetic, do that.
 
I still own the follow-up to this car; a 2009 Pontiac G5 with an Ecotec 2.2. Sadly, I think the interior finish fell in quality with the new car - plastics are much cheaper and break much more. However, seats are better and last longer.
Ecotec is a peppier and harder-revving engine, being DOHC, but the 2.2 OHV was still a smooth, solid power plant…the OHV was prone to piston-slap noise; whereas the Eco often has some TC rattle. Neither engine seems to have oil burning problems.
The Cobalt/G5’s also were a step back in that they rusted much worse - the sill covers are gone on all of them, plus the hood edges rust out badly and door bottoms. Cavi’s got some rust in the doors and back fenders, but later on it seemed.
Both these cars make great cheap beaters!
 
Cheap gets no respect !

$500 car or $500,000 car, no difference. Do you want the **** thing to last or don’t you, that is the question ???

Put in the oil that will keep the car from any more wear.

If the cars not already worn out, then why hasten its demise by using crap oil ? To me that makes no sense. If make sense to the OP then he should just waste the $500 by sending it to me instead of wasting it on a car he’s trying to kill off.

Z
 
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