$500 beater, Oil suggestions?

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285
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SC, USA
If you have a Costco membership, than kirklands signature oil and a Purolator Pureone oil filter. 10 qts and 10k mile oil filter. It has never done me wrong.
 
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Dallas,Tx USA
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1,886
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Indiana
It’s not about feeling “above others”. Does it make sense to drag up a six month old thread about what to put in a $500 beater and recommend the OP use Amsoil? And does it make sense to give advice to the OP, who hasn’t been here for the last six months, when he was already given plenty of suggestions when he originally asked?
 
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5,325
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Paramount, California
A conventional 10W-40 PCMO is a good choice for a car like this.

If it doesn't consume too much oil, you can also use a conventional 10W-30 PCMO, which is a lot thinner than a 10W-40 PCMO but will raise the oil consumption if that's a problem.

A 10W-30 HDEO, which is a lot thicker than a 10W-30 PCMO, is also a good choice. A 15W-40 HDEO is also a great choice if the winters are not too cold.
 
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155
Location
Connecticut
Cheap oil in a cheap car - just something about it that doesn't make total sense to me. I mean, you want it to run as long as possible right? There's a thought that the less a vehicle is worth, or the older it is, the cheaper the oil people tend to use. But I can't make total sense out of that. It seems to me that an older, higher mile vehicle, which is beginning to wear, would warrant a high end oil as much if not more than a newer vehicle.

The only exception I can think of this is if you plan on getting rid of the car very soon.

And I know that many will say it's all irrelevant because no oil is that much better than another. Just thinking out loud.

Well, see my post above. Sometimes a "better" oil could cause issues. I've seen engines go 450K on dino. It would depend on the car and how it treats oil, but if your car specifically is easy on oil (as in, not something like a Chrysler 2.7 or Toyota ZZ that runs too hot and cooks off dino) I don't see a reason to not just use normal conventional oil. I could understand switching to a heavier weight, but to roll the dice with synthetics on the seals is risky to me now. Then again, I don't tend to do/like long drains for oil anyway, I'd rather use cheaper oil and a shorter drain interval vs use expensive oil and a longer drain.
 
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Southeast Texas
Does it make sense to drag up a six month old thread about what to put in a $500 beater and recommend the OP use Amsoil? And does it make sense to give advice to the OP, who hasn’t been here for the last six months, when he was already given plenty of suggestions when he originally asked?
The Amsoil comment was the exception. The rest of the advice was thoughtful and accurate. No need to destroy or bury a good thread just because of one senseless post.

...give advice to the OP who is gone? No, the advice is still very relevent for the multitude of beater owners who might find this thread. Many, many times threads answer questions for those who come along later and read them.
 
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246
Location
STL, MO
The Amsoil comment was the exception. The rest of the advice was thoughtful and accurate. No need to destroy or bury a good thread just because of one senseless post.

...give advice to the OP who is gone? No, the advice is still very relevent for the multitude of beater owners who might find this thread. Many, many times threads answer questions for those who come along later and read them.
I agree, and it is not like he brought back a thread from 2005 where none of the oil info that was previously given is relevant anymore.
 
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1,886
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Indiana
I fail to see any value in a new group of posters repeating the same advice over and over that the first group gave him, which is basically run something cheap because it really doesn’t matter.
 
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