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Honest question, how does one know that the user was banned?
$500 beater, Oil suggestions?
- Thread starter Normac
- Start date
Because some users like to resurrect old threads with useless responses. When asked why they do it they say "because it is fun".
Those cars aren't picky and are very reliable. I had one for 20 years. It never left me stranded.
If you have a Costco membership, than kirklands signature oil and a Purolator Pureone oil filter. 10 qts and 10k mile oil filter. It has never done me wrong.
Click on their username and check their profile.
I guess. Seems kind of pathetic, but I don’t get the other posters giving him advice.
Last edited:
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Clicking Normac's profile shows this:
Sorry didn’t realize this was a rehash of an ancient thread for a user that was banned.
The information / advice / dialogue is all still very relevent regardless of who (or when) it was posted. Lots of good perspectives here.
Some get very annoyed when advice is given, even if the member isn't here anymore. I guess it makes them feel above others.
It’s not about feeling “above others”. Does it make sense to drag up a six month old thread about what to put in a $500 beater and recommend the OP use Amsoil? And does it make sense to give advice to the OP, who hasn’t been here for the last six months, when he was already given plenty of suggestions when he originally asked?
A conventional 10W-40 PCMO is a good choice for a car like this.
If it doesn't consume too much oil, you can also use a conventional 10W-30 PCMO, which is a lot thinner than a 10W-40 PCMO but will raise the oil consumption if that's a problem.
A 10W-30 HDEO, which is a lot thicker than a 10W-30 PCMO, is also a good choice. A 15W-40 HDEO is also a great choice if the winters are not too cold.
If it doesn't consume too much oil, you can also use a conventional 10W-30 PCMO, which is a lot thinner than a 10W-40 PCMO but will raise the oil consumption if that's a problem.
A 10W-30 HDEO, which is a lot thicker than a 10W-30 PCMO, is also a good choice. A 15W-40 HDEO is also a great choice if the winters are not too cold.
Well, see my post above. Sometimes a "better" oil could cause issues. I've seen engines go 450K on dino. It would depend on the car and how it treats oil, but if your car specifically is easy on oil (as in, not something like a Chrysler 2.7 or Toyota ZZ that runs too hot and cooks off dino) I don't see a reason to not just use normal conventional oil. I could understand switching to a heavier weight, but to roll the dice with synthetics on the seals is risky to me now. Then again, I don't tend to do/like long drains for oil anyway, I'd rather use cheaper oil and a shorter drain interval vs use expensive oil and a longer drain.
The Amsoil comment was the exception. The rest of the advice was thoughtful and accurate. No need to destroy or bury a good thread just because of one senseless post.
...give advice to the OP who is gone? No, the advice is still very relevent for the multitude of beater owners who might find this thread. Many, many times threads answer questions for those who come along later and read them.
I agree, and it is not like he brought back a thread from 2005 where none of the oil info that was previously given is relevant anymore.
I fail to see any value in a new group of posters repeating the same advice over and over that the first group gave him, which is basically run something cheap because it really doesn’t matter.
Molly McButter, lol. No seriously, just use any oil that meets the requirements. If you want to go synthetic, do that.
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