$500 beater, Oil suggestions?

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Originally Posted by DGXR
Be sure to put an SS badge on the back end, that will instantly add 40 HP and 10 years.
Nah. How about a nice 5.0 badge from a Mustang?
 
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Originally Posted by eyeofthetiger
Originally Posted by DGXR
Be sure to put an SS badge on the back end, that will instantly add 40 HP and 10 years.
Nah. How about a nice 5.0 badge from a Mustang?
ZR-1
 

Normac

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Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Originally Posted by eyeofthetiger
Originally Posted by DGXR
Be sure to put an SS badge on the back end, that will instantly add 40 HP and 10 years.
Nah. How about a nice 5.0 badge from a Mustang?
ZR-1
All it needs is a sticker. LOL [Linked Image]
 
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The beauty of a beater is you don't care about it. You don't worry about scratches. dings, crumbs on the inside and you don't fret over the oil. Yes! You still need to change it now and again, but it should get whatever you have sitting around that you won't use in the cars you care about. If you have nothing sitting around, get whatever is cheapest, clearance, etc. that meets spec or close enough to spec.
 
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I would run a high-mileage conventional oil for a synthetic blend. Maybe super tech high mileage oil or Valvoline high mileage
 
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Drove an 02 4-door for years, my UOAs are on here. One of the most reliable cars I have had, drove the life out of it, it never really gave me problems. It will run perfect on any cheap 5W-30 or 10W-30 and filters for years.
 
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Originally Posted by eljefino
I'm old school but still mostly avoid 10w40s "because they might shear". Antiquated thinking I know.
Thats right. Funny isn't it that 10w-40 have a "might shear" reputation but 0w-30 are somehow an elite oil. crazy Its a 30 spread either way.
 
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I ran a beater Galant on mostly Supertech conventional for about 50K, with usually a 5K oil change interval. When I pulled the head off the valve covers were fairly clean, just some light varnish, but no actual sludge. I did the PCV fairly early on, though. Oddly enough trying too good of an oil may have killed the car, I developed a front main seal leak after trying out Rotella 10w30 synthetic for 1-2 oil changes trying to go better. I always used a NAPA Gold filter on it, though, I couldn't get Supertech filters cheap for its size and refused to run FRAM due to a bad experience I had before. I finally switched my mother's Ford Five Hundred from Motorcraft 5w20 syn blend to Supertech 5w20 conventional high mileage and I find oddly it runs smoother and quieter with it vs the Motorcraft. So anyway, to me Supertech oddly has a proven track record of working fine. I've tried Valvoline Maxlife and liked it a lot, too, but Supertech's done well for me longterm in old cars.
 
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Supertech conventional or Phillips 66 Shield if you have an Orscheln Farms around. They have it for $1.89 or $1.99 a quart depending on the sale. In reality you'll run just about whatever you can get though. There's so many rebates, sales, and clearances if you don't mind the extra effort.
 
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Cheap oil in a cheap car - just something about it that doesn't make total sense to me. I mean, you want it to run as long as possible right? There's a thought that the less a vehicle is worth, or the older it is, the cheaper the oil people tend to use. But I can't make total sense out of that. It seems to me that an older, higher mile vehicle, which is beginning to wear, would warrant a high end oil as much if not more than a newer vehicle.

The only exception I can think of this is if you plan on getting rid of the car very soon.

And I know that many will say it's all irrelevant because no oil is that much better than another. Just thinking out loud.
 

SR5

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Supertech conventional or Phillips 66 Shield if you have an Orscheln Farms around. They have it for $1.89 or $1.99 a quart depending on the sale.
Here is a recent UOA series that includes Phillips 66 Shield Choice 10w30. Yes it’s from a different car (Toyota) but the oil performed very well compared to some other more expensive options.

If you can get Phillips 66 at a good price it looks like a good option to me. Otherwise SuperTech / Mag1 has also produced some good UOAs in various cars. Also Valvoline MaxLife synblend (red bottle) is well respected as a high mileage oil.

Summer 10W30, Winter 5W30, change every 5-6k miles.

 
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This is a six month old thread, the OP hasn't been back since June and appears to have been banned. Why keep giving him advice?
 
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