5.4 V-8 in Ford F-150: what to watch for?

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Worked half day yesterday and went with co worker to finally get his new to him 07’ Ford F-150 extended cab truck. Well kept, minor rust on front right wheel well. Has the 5.4 V-8 engine in it. Mileage is 200,988 also. Older gentleman that was widowed owned it.

what to watch out for on the 5.4 engine and other things. Much appreciated 🇺🇸🇨🇦
 
1: Timing set
2: Cam phasers
3: Oil pump
4: Oil dip stick tube
For more information go to FordTechMakuloco YouTube or Facebook page.
A friend of mine had a 2002. He ran 15W40 from the first oil change until he recently totaled it. He had over 250,000 miles on it.
 
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Negative. This would be the 3V which the plugs get stuck and break off in the head if not removed properly. FWIW different people have different definitions of "properly" which I guess it should more correctly be said to remove them "carefully".
Exactly. Good thing is a good Ford mechanic has no problem replacing plugs in these. They have seen it all. Cam Phasers and timing chain guides at this mileage retires most 3v motors.
 
Negative. This would be the 3V which the plugs get stuck and break off in the head if not removed properly. FWIW different people have different definitions of "properly" which I guess it should more correctly be said to remove them "carefully".
Thanks! I stand corrected!
 
I understand the 2004-2007 5.4’s had the “two piece plugs” that became two pieces when they trying to get them out. In 2008 they changed the plug design. Here is one way to get them out. There is a procedure to get broken plugs out but it is a pain apparently.

 
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I understand the 2004-2007 5.4’s had the “two piece plugs” that became two pieces when they trying to get them out. In 2008 they changed the plug design. Here is one way to get them out. There is a procedure to get broken plugs out but it is a pain apparently.


The new version from Ford supposedly won't get stuck upon removal.
 
My .02 on spark plugs. I own a 2006 5.4L.

How I remove mine without breaking them and install with no issues afterwards.

First: You will need a professional grade carb cleaner spray and brake cleaner. Possibly a few cans of both. Carb cleaner for the plugs and brake cleaner to clean the engine brush (which I will spell out why below).

Next: Blow out the spark plug well with compressed air after removing the ignition coil.
  1. Spray a professional grade carb cleaner down in the spark plug well so that the liquid is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep.
  2. When removing the spark plug, using a "back and forth" unscrew/screw method and patience is your best friend. When you go to break the spark plug loose, loosen a very little and then retighten. Keep doing this and go by "feel". As in when the plug becomes becomes loose in that little amount you went back and forth on, loosen a little bit further and keep repeating this back and forth motion until the plug is out. It will be time consuming, but this is what I do and remove plugs without them breaking. If it continues to be tight, let it sit in the 'loose' position that you were able to get it to and let the carb cleaner work and then resume your back and forth motion. You may need to 'top off' with carb cleaner periodically since it evaporates.
  3. After the spark plug is removed, take your carb cleaner spray and an engine brush such as this and clean the spark plug threads (in the engine) thoroughly. Take your time when cleaning the spark plug threads. When you pull the brush out to inspect the amount of crud on it, spray the brush clean with brake cleaner until the brush comes out clean. Then stick the brush back down into the spark plug thread and spray more carb cleaner in there and continue to clean. When the brush comes out pretty much spotless or close to it, the threads should be clean.
  4. Cover the spark plug well with something thin and breathable such as a shop rag and allow time for it to dry after cleaning the threads.
  5. Apply nickel anti-seize to spark plug as indicated in the Ford Tech Make You Loco video above.
  6. When installing the new plugs, use a torque wrench and torque to the correct spec.
While this may seem odd, I have found that the 5.4 does not like dirty spark plug threads and doesn't quite run right and also the plugs tend to back out.

Also, for what it's worth, I use Autolite HT15 spark plugs in my truck and it runs just fine and it has been at least 6 years. I got the "back and forth" instructions off Autolite's website back when I bought my truck, but it is no longer posted on their site. No, I do not work for Autolite or any auto company.

Lastly, I must reiterate - Having clean threads in the cylinder head on the engine when reinstalling is EVERYTHING and while it may seem odd, I promise it's worth the time.
 
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The trick to getting all the plugs out in one piece:

get the engine hot and work quickly. I’ve never broken one with this method.

these engines have the biggest issues with timing components and oil pressure related issues. Other than that and being horribly underpowered, not an awful engine.
 
The trick to getting all the plugs out in one piece:

get the engine hot and work quickly. I’ve never broken one with this method.

these engines have the biggest issues with timing components and oil pressure related issues. Other than that and being horribly underpowered, not an awful engine.
Amen to this. I found a deal on some Comp Cams Stage 1 camshafts and will try swapping them out whenever I get around to doing the phaser job. Hoping better cams and a tune brings it from the dead.
 
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