3 Valve 5.4 Triton Oil type

I’m curious about the phaser delete.

Who makes it?

Do you give up the high end, or low end, power?

Do you need a tune so that the engine runs correctly (no codes, etc.) without the phasing?
I bought my blocks from Western Motor Sports in Canada. Livernoise also makes some. You give up some high end power and gain some low end power with a tune. You can get a great tune from Western Motorsports and a CARB compliant tune from Livernoise. I am having a local shop tune for me.
 
3V was introduced with the new body style in 2004. If you had the more curved body style that ran from 97-03, it was a 2V.

I haven't heard many people complaining about the 2V motors, other than, they're not very powerful in stock form compared to the GMs of the time period.

[edit] btw if you want an oil recommendation, full syn no matter what. 0/5/10w30 depending on your climate. The oil passages between the cam journal, the VCT solenoids and the phasers are very small and easily plugged.
With a phaser delete do I really need to worry about the galleys between the cam journal and phasers? The phaser should just be a solid sprocket now with no movement.
 
Why the motorcraft filters? I thought WIX was the holy grail...
Wix the holy grail? I think you mean fram ultra. But the motor craft filters are 93.7% efficient at 20um which is pretty decent for the price although a fram extra guard can do 95.7% at 20um but you do get the metal end caps and oem feel which makes people feel better.
 
I’ve got a 2005 F150 5.4 3V that I bought new. It currently has 216K miles. I’ve always run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum w/motorcraft FL-820S filters with 5K oil changes. I haven’t had one problem with the engine. Have changed spark plugs three times. No phaser or oil problems at all.
 

Attachments

  • 13C2B6B9-0088-4BBB-8A59-0DA74532FA6A.jpeg
    13C2B6B9-0088-4BBB-8A59-0DA74532FA6A.jpeg
    159.3 KB · Views: 14
Why the motorcraft filters? I thought WIX was the holy grail...
This is the main reason... the bypass valve location:
1622864871725.png


They're also cheap and easy to source. I cut each one I take off open and have yet to see anything even remotely questionable.
 
The wife's Expedition just rolled over 220K and for most of its life had a steady diet of Chevron and Havoline 5w20 or 5w30 every 5k. I switched to synthetic oils after I heard about the cam phaser and valve train issues, but it still is quiet. So far it's been a peach.
 
The wife's Expedition just rolled over 220K and for most of its life had a steady diet of Chevron and Havoline 5w20 or 5w30 every 5k. I switched to synthetic oils after I heard about the cam phaser and valve train issues, but it still is quiet. So far it's been a peach.
That's because you and Nyati have taken care of yours. Congrats!
 
if i recall, plug blow out and plugs snapping off in the head were an issue. i don't recall which manufacturer solved the problem with a one piece plug, but they were over $20 a piece
 
I use 5w-40 euro oil in my F-150. It's a 2006 year model 5.4L. Engine seems to be much smoother with it as opposed to the 5w-20. I will continue to run this in my truck as the engine seems to be very compatible with it. A very popular youtuber that works on these recommends 5w-30 full synthetic. You have options is what I'm getting at. 5w-40 is my choice.
 
This is the main reason... the bypass valve location:
View attachment 59434

They're also cheap and easy to source. I cut each one I take off open and have yet to see anything even remotely questionable.
Thank you SOOO much for substantiating your answer! Now let me see if I understand.

When a filter gets plugged up the dirty oil gets bypassed so the motor doesn't get low on oil, correct? So Ford filters put the bypass right at the top so that the dirty oil is at least not picking up more dirt before going back into the motor?

Do you mind sharing some pictures of the filters you have cut open?
 
Back
Top