3 Valve 5.4 Triton Oil type

[CaptnLuke]

I'm new here and I'm scouring these forums for answers. Sounds like there are a lot of smart people here. I don't see a direct, data based answer to my question so I'll post it here. But feel free to send me to another thread if I've just missed it.

I just bought a 3 valve 5.4 triton 2006 F150 with 167k miles that I'll be road tripping and off roading in a bunch. Currently I have it all apart to lock out the cam phasers. (Long story I found broken timing chain guides and a burnt cam (seized roller bearing on rocker arm) as well, so new cams, lifters and rockers as well as a timing components and the phaser delete...)

My mechanic friend tells me to "put Rotella T6 in absolutely everything. 15w in the summer and 5w in the winter." So last oil change I put T6 15w-40 in my 5.4 and my 2.9 V6 in my '86 Ranger (whole other story with the Ranger...)

I'm shopping for the next oil change now because the T6 was hard to find in stock last time. I read the Shell Q&A about their new Truck and SUV oil and I noticed two comments from Shell that confused me. One said that the T6 was for diesel engines and could damage cats in gasoline vehicles. The other comment said to use the T6 in conventional push rod type engines (like the 5.4 right?) because of the higher zinc content.

At the end of the day I want to know what the best oil for my 5.4 is, and I want to know why because I'm the nerd that just has to know why I do what I do. Could any of you all please expound? Or maybe point me to the words of Bob himself?

Extra credit: I run Lucas ZDDP in the 2.9l V6 because if the flat tappet lifters. I run maybe 15% Marvel Mystery oil in both the 2.9 and 5.4. And in the 5.4 I've been putting Seafoam in the oil a couple hundred miles before oil change (which I don't do on the 2.9 because I just rebuilt it). What are your thoughts on this practice?

I'll appreciate all your replies. I've been doing most of all my own mechanic work but I'm headed to medical school and I'm trying to get all my vehicles to the point where I (hopefully) just have to change oil.

 

[SteveG4]

There is no "best" oil for your V8. I would trust Motorcraft 5W-30, with the same in the 10W-30 grade for spring through fall. Skip the additives; timely change your oil instead. Change out every 3K to 5K miles.

 

[Barkleymut]

there is a very detailed analysis of hundred of UOA's on the 4.6 somewhere around here. Let us know how the cam lockout goes

 

[tasch72]

Ford's 4.6 and 5.4 Modular engines are not pushrod engines. For breaking in new cams, and normal use of flat tappet cams, yes you need an oil with a higher ZDDP content like a diesel oil so you don't wipe out your cam lobes. But for most other cams and lifters, you can safely use an oil with a lesser zinc content.

You don't need to run any fancy additives with your truck, most are just excessively thick goop that could clog up an oil galley. If you want a thicker oil, Euro-spec 5w-40's are great options.

I have ran pretty much every oil under the sun through 4.6l motors in the last 10 years. They don't mind what you put in as long as it gets changed. My recommendation for viscosity would be a 5w-30 all year for the additional Dexos1 Gen2 approval, which is above and beyond API SP and Ford's own oil specification. Valvoline recently released a new Extended Performance (not extended drain interval) oil which looks very promising, Supertech/Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic is very strong in the additive department for the price, and Quaker State Full Synthetic/Rotella Gas Truck are also very solid picks if you're a fan of SOPUS. Really, there are no bad picks any more.

 

[Zaedock]

Neither engine is picky. I would probably run a 5W30 for both and skip the additives - including the ZDDP for the 2.9L. It's not needed.

 

[Dennywires]

I'm new here and I'm scouring these forums for answers. Sounds like there are a lot of smart people here. I don't see a direct, data based answer to my question so I'll post it here. But feel free to send me to another thread if I've just missed it.

I just bought a 3 valve 5.4 triton 2006 F150 with 167k miles that I'll be road tripping and off roading in a bunch. Currently I have it all apart to lock out the cam phasers. (Long story I found broken timing chain guides and a burnt cam (seized roller bearing on rocker arm) as well, so new cams, lifters and rockers as well as a timing components and the phaser delete...)

My mechanic friend tells me to "put Rotella T6 in absolutely everything. 15w in the summer and 5w in the winter." So last oil change I put T6 15w-40 in my 5.4 and my 2.9 V6 in my '86 Ranger (whole other story with the Ranger...)

I'm shopping for the next oil change now because the T6 was hard to find in stock last time. I read the Shell Q&A about their new Truck and SUV oil and I noticed two comments from Shell that confused me. One said that the T6 was for diesel engines and could damage cats in gasoline vehicles. The other comment said to use the T6 in conventional push rod type engines (like the 5.4 right?) because of the higher zinc content.

At the end of the day I want to know what the best oil for my 5.4 is, and I want to know why because I'm the nerd that just has to know why I do what I do. Could any of you all please expound? Or maybe point me to the words of Bob himself?

Extra credit: I run Lucas ZDDP in the 2.9l V6 because if the flat tappet lifters. I run maybe 15% Marvel Mystery oil in both the 2.9 and 5.4. And in the 5.4 I've been putting Seafoam in the oil a couple hundred miles before oil change (which I don't do on the 2.9 because I just rebuilt it). What are your thoughts on this practice?

I'll appreciate all your replies. I've been doing most of all my own mechanic work but I'm headed to medical school and I'm trying to get all my vehicles to the point where I (hopefully) just have to change oil.

oil type is the least of your problems. 5w30 with a good filter

 

[Astro14]

I’m curious about the phaser delete.

Who makes it?

Do you give up the high end, or low end, power?

Do you need a tune so that the engine runs correctly (no codes, etc.) without the phasing?

 

[slo town]

oil type is the least of your problems. 5w30 with a good filter

Agree. I had one of these 5.4 liter Triton motors in a bought brand new 2000 F150. Had a lot of problems with the engine. Ford never could get it right. I sold it before the warranty was out.

Scott

 

[JavierH19]

I owned a 5.4 and they do prefer a 40 grade which is what I ran and had great success. I'd use a euro grade 5w-40 like Quaker state euro as it's a better deal than t6 and although t6 is better your engine wont really see it. I'd also use delvac 15w-40 it's cheaper but just as good but I'd limit that to 20f or higher. Colder than that and I'd use it as a summer oil and the 5w-40 as a winter if you plan on starting up and going immediately. I'd skip the MMO entirely. As for the ranger the t6 is more noticeable as it's a flat tappet engine and although flat tappet engines did need more zddp to protect keep in mind the rest of the oil back in those days sucked ass. Modern oils can protect more while having much less zddp but id continue the t6 use for the ranger If you plan on owning it for another one or two hundred thousand miles. I'd skip the zddp additive to be honest and that's considering im a zddp lover and have 3 ohv engines in my driveway but I've recognized the strength of modern oils with less zddp but just as good protection. I think I've even heard Pennzoil say their platinum or ultra platinum was suitable for old flat tappets which surprised me.

 

[2EHA]

Agree. I had one of these 5.4 liter Triton motors in a bought brand new 2000 F150. Had a lot of problems with the engine. Ford never could get it right. I sold it before the warranty was out.

Scott

the 5.4 2 valve in the jellybean isn’t associated with the higher profile issues of the later 3 valve. mostly just chain guide wear and the built-in spark plug ejector

the 2 valve modulars really aren’t anything to write home about but they give a lot of ford guys a hardon for some reason. many other motors will outlive them. they are cheap though

 

[slo town]

the 5.4 2 valve in the jellybean isn’t associated with the higher profile issues of the later 3 valve. mostly just chain guide wear and the built-in spark plug ejector

the 2 valve modulars really aren’t anything to write home about but they give a lot of ford guys a hardon for some reason. many other motors will outlive them. they are cheap though

I know mine was a 3 valve. Maybe it was a 2001 model. I forget.

Scott

 

[Bud]

I drove a 2005 for eleven years and went back and forth between 0w20 and 5w30. Put 100,000 trouble free miles on it. Used whatever synthetic had the best price at the time of change.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

the 5.4 2 valve in the jellybean isn’t associated with the higher profile issues of the later 3 valve. mostly just chain guide wear and the built-in spark plug ejector

the 2 valve modulars really aren’t anything to write home about but they give a lot of ford guys a hardon for some reason. many other motors will outlive them. they are cheap though

I still have a 5.4 Jelly bean. I don’t have much love for the motor or the cab forward placement. It works though, despite the second engine also have the head gasket oil leak. Spark plug ejector is solved with 28ft lb torque of plugs. Just get to it before they let go and listen for an exhaust tick that’s actually a loose plug.

 

[Brons2]

I know mine was a 3 valve. Maybe it was a 2001 model. I forget.

Scott

3V was introduced with the new body style in 2004. If you had the more curved body style that ran from 97-03, it was a 2V.

I haven't heard many people complaining about the 2V motors, other than, they're not very powerful in stock form compared to the GMs of the time period.

[edit] btw if you want an oil recommendation, full syn no matter what. 0/5/10w30 depending on your climate. The oil passages between the cam journal, the VCT solenoids and the phasers are very small and easily plugged.

 

[ondarvr]

I know mine was a 3 valve. Maybe it was a 2001 model. I forget.

Scott

2004 is the year they went 3 valves.

 

[ondarvr]

I had several of the 1997 to 2003 F150s, both 4.6 and 5.4.

The only plug blowout problem was on a 2001 that I currently own. The prior owner changed the plugs himself and didn't properly tighten them.

Nothing special about the motor, not great mileage or power, bit it still runs great. Just made a 1,000 mile trip pulling a trailer to help a friend move.

I've tried several different oils in them, none really made much of a difference.

Currently PP, prior was ST, I think it was quieter on startup with ST. Other than that, no difference.

 

[Zaedock]

I had a '03 FX4 Ex-cab 5.4. Our non-motorhead friends called it "The Beast" because it had a nice stance with a tire upsize. We had bought it used and I suspect someone cranked the front T bars a bit because it sat noticeably higher than other F150's.

I was fortunate, as the heads had 5 threads for the plugs instead of 3. Never had a plug issue. The 260HP/350TQ was OK and didn't have a problem hauling my Jeep junk across the country to Moab and The Rubicon.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

I'm new here and I'm scouring these forums for answers. Sounds like there are a lot of smart people here. I don't see a direct, data based answer to my question so I'll post it here. But feel free to send me to another thread if I've just missed it.

I just bought a 3 valve 5.4 triton 2006 F150 with 167k miles that I'll be road tripping and off roading in a bunch. Currently I have it all apart to lock out the cam phasers. (Long story I found broken timing chain guides and a burnt cam (seized roller bearing on rocker arm) as well, so new cams, lifters and rockers as well as a timing components and the phaser delete...)

My mechanic friend tells me to "put Rotella T6 in absolutely everything. 15w in the summer and 5w in the winter." So last oil change I put T6 15w-40 in my 5.4 and my 2.9 V6 in my '86 Ranger (whole other story with the Ranger...)

I'm shopping for the next oil change now because the T6 was hard to find in stock last time. I read the Shell Q&A about their new Truck and SUV oil and I noticed two comments from Shell that confused me. One said that the T6 was for diesel engines and could damage cats in gasoline vehicles. The other comment said to use the T6 in conventional push rod type engines (like the 5.4 right?) because of the higher zinc content.

At the end of the day I want to know what the best oil for my 5.4 is, and I want to know why because I'm the nerd that just has to know why I do what I do. Could any of you all please expound? Or maybe point me to the words of Bob himself?

Extra credit: I run Lucas ZDDP in the 2.9l V6 because if the flat tappet lifters. I run maybe 15% Marvel Mystery oil in both the 2.9 and 5.4. And in the 5.4 I've been putting Seafoam in the oil a couple hundred miles before oil change (which I don't do on the 2.9 because I just rebuilt it). What are your thoughts on this practice?

I'll appreciate all your replies. I've been doing most of all my own mechanic work but I'm headed to medical school and I'm trying to get all my vehicles to the point where I (hopefully) just have to change oil.

My son works for a Ford dealership here in La. He owns a 2004 Lariat (new style) 5.4 3V. His shop foreman advised him to use any good synthetic or synthetic blend 5W30 in his engine, with a MC FL-820S oil filter. His current oil fill is Havoline Pro-DS 5W30.

 

[robertcope]

My 2012 Expedition w/ 5.4L 3V has lived happily for 120K miles or so on Mobil 1. Usually M1 5w20, just moved to 0W-40 because everything else I own runs it. Always FL-820S filters.

 

[slo town]

2004 is the year they went 3 valves.

IIRC, and I'm fairly certain, mine was an overhead cam motor, possibly SOHC. Was that a 2 valve?

Scott