3.5 EcoBoost M1 EP vs M1 ESP vs Rotella Gas Truck

Joined
May 23, 2021
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Hey all,

First post after doing a bunch of reading - trying to decide what I want to use in my new to me truck. 2018 Raptor w/ 30k miles, came to me with fresh oil change (but a synthetic blend from Valvoline). I've always run M1 in my naturally aspirated cars and Rotella T6 5W40 in my turbo cars. This truck runs a thinner 5W30 viscosity than I'm used to for turbo applications, so I guess I'm being a bit precious about choosing a good lubricant to keep it in good shape for a long time.

I drive an even mix of freeway, extended road trips, and city miles - I'm not abnormally hard on my cars. I generally change the oil around 5k. Is there any appreciable difference between these three oils for my use case? Is it problematic in any way to switch between them since they all seem relatively similar?

I have the M1 EP already, the Rotella Gas Truck is on heavy sale (free) at the moment so considering that as well. It looks like the M1 ESP and RGT have a higher HTHS than the M1 EP - is the M1 EP at 3.0 more than good enough in that regard?

Thanks all!
 
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All of those oils will be similar for a 5k run. M1 esp is higher end than the other two, but I'm not sure it would make that much of a difference. ESP is probably going to perform similar to a 5w40, but I wouldn't spend double or triple for it in your application.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2005
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Run each one, see what the safe OCI is, compare UOAs then decide.

A bunch of internet people giving opinions doesn't furnish what you need to know.

edit: except maybe RhondaHonda's post, which is a very similar vehicle... but his usage and driving habits may not be the same.
 
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In my in laws new Ecoboost I have him running t6 15w-40. Doing perfectly good. Gas oils hardly belong in a TT gdi engine for long term ownership imo.
 
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I have run QSUD, PP, PUP and maybe one or two other 5W-30's in my 2014 Ecoboost F150 and I abuse it towing a travel trailer in MT, WY, UT, and ID. I've warped two sets of exhaust manifolds and my truck sees coolant temps in the 240's basically every tow, and has gone into thermal protection mode a handful of times.

So far the engine has been solid with about 100k miles. That said, i have decided to switch it to PP Euro L 5W-30 this next change to get me the 3.5 HTHS.
 
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Hey all,

First post after doing a bunch of reading - trying to decide what I want to use in my new to me truck. 2018 Raptor w/ 30k miles, came to me with fresh oil change (but a synthetic blend from Valvoline). I've always run M1 in my naturally aspirated cars and Rotella T6 5W40 in my turbo cars. This truck runs a thinner 5W30 viscosity than I'm used to for turbo applications, so I guess I'm being a bit precious about choosing a good lubricant to keep it in good shape for a long time.

I drive an even mix of freeway, extended road trips, and city miles - I'm not abnormally hard on my cars. I generally change the oil around 5k. Is there any appreciable difference between these three oils for my use case? Is it problematic in any way to switch between them since they all seem relatively similar?

I have the M1 EP already, the Rotella Gas Truck is on heavy sale (free) at the moment so considering that as well. It looks like the M1 ESP and RGT have a higher HTHS than the M1 EP - is the M1 EP at 3.0 more than good enough in that regard?

Thanks all!
I prefer the higher HTHS 30s but from a practical standpoint, for a 5k OCI they're going to be the same. I'm running M1 HM 10w-30 in my 2.5L GDI turbo for the HTHS, and will be experimenting with some of the Xw-40s going forward.

If you're looking for really tough oil, go look at the Euro stuff. You'll lose current API specification because they all exceed phosphorus limits :D (or most of them anyway)
 

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May 23, 2021
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Seems like they're all perfectly fine for a 5k OCI - certainly better than factory.

I'm not sure I want to go heavier than recommended weight - seems like the engine and clearances are designed with that in mind and I haven't heard much of anything about issues with rod bearings or other failures that would make me think the 5W30 is too thin. I'll give the M1 EP a shot and try the Rotella Gas Truck afterwards.
 
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Seems like they're all perfectly fine for a 5k OCI - certainly better than factory.

I'm not sure I want to go heavier than recommended weight - seems like the engine and clearances are designed with that in mind and I haven't heard much of anything about issues with rod bearings or other failures that would make me think the 5W30 is too thin. I'll give the M1 EP a shot and try the Rotella Gas Truck afterwards.
Yup stick to 530 with a hths anywhere around 3.0-3.5 and 5k intervals should make the ecobeast run flawlessly. Enjoy your new raptor!!!
 
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I’d be happy with the M1 EP 5w30. My father in law has been using regular M1 5w30 in his 2018 3.5EB at 5k intervals since new and it’s been working great. If you’re going to stick with 5k intervals, I’d consider just using that in the future.
 
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All those oils among others will be fine for 5k oci with your driving types. Personally I would use 10w30 for summer and 5w30 in winter and run it to at least 7500 miles
 
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I use Castrol 0w-40 in my 2018 F150 3.5 eco. 48k miles no issues. 5k OCI
I may switch to QS 5w-40 API SP but with the dual injection not sure I really need to worry about it.

Oh and I have 5 star tuning in the ECU. But even before tuning I used 0w-40. I drive it easy. I tuned because I didn't like a few things about it, not for more power.
 
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I believe your EcoBoost is the “gen 2“ version, which is probably significantly less problematic to oils than my gen 1. That said, my gen 1 significantly sheared, or diluted, or somehow thinned, the Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum available a couple years ago (SN / SN+). UOA’s for 5w30’s showed them at 8.2 cst (Plat SN+ after 6150 miles) and 8.4 cst (Ultra SN after a mere 900 miles)...which is mid 20wt...not in 30wt spec. Though not identical, I put RGT in the same category/quality as the USA Platinums/Ultra Platinums. it may start out thicker, but I’m not sure it doesn’t thin out just as badly (See post by Snagglefoot comparing the various Shell offerings in Rotella Gas Truck vs Multi vehicle thread)...but somewhere I thought I saw UOA’s where RGT had thinned out considerably as well...as had the QSUD. My point is, things can go bad a long time before 5,000 miles. I’d rather run better oil longer...within reason.

However, I tend to trust EDYVW on euro oils, so if he says the Pennzoil Euro L is better, I would tend to believe him. Ive heard good things about M1 ESP from several sources too, not just him.

I am not a chemist nor Tribologist, but I like HTHS of 3.5 found in many euro oils vs 3.0. on the other hand, allegedly, SP-rated oils are significantly better for GTDI engines...though I don’t know if any euro oils claim SP yet. I’m still using up older stuff, but SP claims of lower volatility, better cling & film (on timing chains), more balanced detergent mixes (to reduce LSPI) all sound like good things (however, has any marketing claim ever been bad?). But don’t assume everything on the shelf is SP yet.
 
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I believe your EcoBoost is the “gen 2“ version, which is probably significantly less problematic to oils than my gen 1. That said, my gen 1 significantly sheared, or diluted, or somehow thinned, the Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum available a couple years ago (SN / SN+). UOA’s for 5w30’s showed them at 8.2 cst (Plat SN+ after 6150 miles) and 8.4 cst (Ultra SN after a mere 900 miles)...which is mid 20wt...not in 30wt spec. Though not identical, I put RGT in the same category/quality as the USA Platinums/Ultra Platinums. it may start out thicker, but I’m not sure it doesn’t thin out just as badly (See post by Snagglefoot comparing the various Shell offerings in Rotella Gas Truck vs Multi vehicle thread)...but somewhere I thought I saw UOA’s where RGT had thinned out considerably as well...as had the QSUD. My point is, things can go bad a long time before 5,000 miles. I’d rather run better oil longer...within reason.

However, I tend to trust EDYVW on euro oils, so if he says the Pennzoil Euro L is better, I would tend to believe him. Ive heard good things about M1 ESP from several sources too, not just him.

I am not a chemist nor Tribologist, but I like HTHS of 3.5 found in many euro oils vs 3.0. on the other hand, allegedly, SP-rated oils are significantly better for GTDI engines...though I don’t know if any euro oils claim SP yet. I’m still using up older stuff, but SP claims of lower volatility, better cling & film (on timing chains), more balanced detergent mixes (to reduce LSPI) all sound like good things (however, has any marketing claim ever been bad?). But don’t assume everything on the shelf is SP yet.
Interesting. My thoughts exactly.

Regarding my cheap commuter Equinox with its 2.4L 4-cyl, I believe RGT, QSUD, Kirkland, and other mid-grade synth oils break down and sheer around 2500 to 3000 miles, where it then slips by the engine's known poor rings and is burned. So when the burning begins, I change it. It is what it is, and I firmly believe my actions will stave off longer-term problems.

Now to wait till this OCI's burning begins. I will collect a sample and send it in for analysis. I fully expect my suspicions will be confirmed.

I am NOT a fan of these fully DI engines. Perhaps Ford is onto something with their combo DI and port injection engines. I think so. There's likely a Ford in my future.
 
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Interesting. My thoughts exactly.

Regarding my cheap commuter Equinox with its 2.4L 4-cyl, I believe RGT, QSUD, Kirkland, and other mid-grade synth oils break down and sheer around 2500 to 3000 miles, where it then slips by the engine's known poor rings and is burned. So when the burning begins, I change it. It is what it is, and I firmly believe my actions will stave off longer-term problems.

Now to wait till this OCI's burning begins. I will collect a sample and send it in for analysis. I fully expect my suspicions will be confirmed.

I am NOT a fan of these fully DI engines. Perhaps Ford is onto something with their combo DI and port injection engines. I think so. There's likely a Ford in my future.
Toyota has been using dual injection (D4-S) since 2005.
 
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Hey all,

First post after doing a bunch of reading - trying to decide what I want to use in my new to me truck. 2018 Raptor w/ 30k miles, came to me with fresh oil change (but a synthetic blend from Valvoline). I've always run M1 in my naturally aspirated cars and Rotella T6 5W40 in my turbo cars. This truck runs a thinner 5W30 viscosity than I'm used to for turbo applications, so I guess I'm being a bit precious about choosing a good lubricant to keep it in good shape for a long time.

I drive an even mix of freeway, extended road trips, and city miles - I'm not abnormally hard on my cars. I generally change the oil around 5k. Is there any appreciable difference between these three oils for my use case? Is it problematic in any way to switch between them since they all seem relatively similar?

I have the M1 EP already, the Rotella Gas Truck is on heavy sale (free) at the moment so considering that as well. It looks like the M1 ESP and RGT have a higher HTHS than the M1 EP - is the M1 EP at 3.0 more than good enough in that regard?

Thanks all!

Whatever you do, don't use Rotella T6 5W-40 in that motor, as that formulation doesn't take into account timing chain wear. Any API SP approved motor oil should do fine, however, the only 5W-40 that is API SP approved that I am aware of is QSUD Euro 5W-40 (and PP Euro 5W-40). So, if you want a thicker oil for your Raptor that has a modern formulation, that's the way to go. Otherwise, just about any 5W-30 that has the right Ford approvals and is API SP will do.
 
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