3.5 Ecoboost cam lobe wear?

OK, Thanks to all for the responses. This is the 3.5 Gen 2, water pump is external, so no coolant involved.
 
Some bad news (to me).

I am looking at the cost of new heads (comes only with valves, springs, and direct injectors) and noticed there is an important difference in the new head compared to my original. Look at the first picture below (original design from workshop manual), you will see only three bolts on the mega cap for the first cam tower, then look at the second picture, there is a 4th bolt added to the mega cap.

Could this missing bolt cause pressure loss in the head?

Old head design.webp



New head design.webp
 
Looking out for who?

FWIW, if it makes you feel better, I'd opt to replace the head if it was my own.

Anyway, you disagree. Got it.
You were talking like a mechanic, recommending what’s easier and more convenient to you, not necessarily what’s best and cost effective to the customer.
If you are a mechanic, I do understand your position, but if you’re not, then you have some very weird view of what you consider as cost effective.
 
I do understand your position, but if you’re not, then you have some very weird view of what you consider as cost effective.
Well, I've driven 20+ year old vehicles since I've had my driver's license and have applied this view the entire time. My balance sheet tells me it's effective :D. Weird, maybe. That's up to you.
 
The Ford heads do not come with phasers, camshafts, or followers.
I already have new phasers, chains, tensioners, etc. for the original job.

But pulling the heads, with turbos and all, is on a different level for me as a DIYer.
 
Not a mechanic but do 80% of my own work on the stuff in my sig line and more.

Looking at an eco boost as a potential next truck - curious what replacing the head would do for me in this situation vs just replacing the cams/followers/tappets- and possibly/ likely a new chain when it's apart?

There maybe some build specific reason to do that I'm unaware of. (?)
 
My messages still need approval before being displayed. Sorry for this delay.
 
I'm sure someone can. I cannot order any parts for the new GTs as we are not a servicing dealer. All of the GT specific parts, including the 05-06, have to be phoned in and we have to provide proof of ownership.
 
I'm sure someone can. I cannot order any parts for the new GTs as we are not a servicing dealer. All of the GT specific parts, including the 05-06, have to be phoned in and we have to provide proof of ownership.
He can you guys check post #23 and let me know what you think??

Sorry my posts are delayed for review. Thanks!
 
I'd not worry about the extra bolt. Product improvements happen but don't mean the previous design caused a failure.

I suggest changing cams and followers. Even if the followers look good.

As for the tappet noise, are you sure that it is not simply 'piston slap'?

In any case, it would be helpful to know the oil brand, type and viscosity.
 
Big ouch. Removed the cams and it seems some journals and towers have some wear. First two pictures are intake cam at the mega cap and second two are exhaust.

You can see the grooves and wear on the intake cam.

IMG_8873.webp


IMG_8875.webp


IMG_8874.webp


IMG_8877.webp
 
I’ve seen Much worse. If you’re that concerned check them with a bore gauge.

Oil fill will those small groves. All of that is from debris going through it. As I stated you want overall diameter which can be checked with a bore gauge.

Catch your nail on everything cleanly? If so you can try to LIGHTLY Emory cloth the HIGH SPOTS ONLY. Low spots will be filled with oil. I would recheck your cam bearing clearance. You’d also need a micrometer to measure the new cam journals. And a bore gauge to measure the internal diameter of the cam journal bores. Another option are snap gauges with a micrometer but I prefer a bore gauge.

How much material were in the VVT solenoid screens?
 
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