I believe this answers your question about 0w16 in your vehicle.
2025 Toyota 2.5L Engine Oil Viscosity Update.
- Thread starter GI_GRIFF
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A variable output “electronic” oil pump doesn’t help the engine to tolerate low-viscosity oils without damage, it just allows for less parasitic drag due to pumping requirements.
Another change that allows the use of those oils can be bearing width and coatings.
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Which is why I don't understand why folks want to run 0w30 in a motor that stays between 125 degrees and 175 degrees. I am waiting for the heat wave this July where outside temp is 110 degrees and my oil temp 175. I will share the pictures here.
Another of your many repeat questions that has been answered to you multiple times.
How come you’ve abandoned your other thread?
I run a 0/5w30 because I personally wouldn’t run a 0w16 in anything. Same reason I run a 5w40 in a diesel that rarely sees oil temps over 210 unladen when I could run a 10w30.
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Toyota has designed this motor in a way that 0w16 in it is as good as 0w30 in some other engine. It comes to operating temperature. Mobil 1 AFE 0w16 is 7.6, AFE 0w20 is 8.2. The difference is not much. Your 0w16 practically behaves like a thick 0w20 most of the times. All oils start thick. And if operating temp doesn't get very high, they stay thick.
The engine design and use of 0w16 doesn’t account for demanding scenarios such as high ambient temps, fuel dilution, prolonged high speeds, frequently seeing redline etc. While the engine may have sophisticated cooling capabilities, this isn’t the only factor. Choosing an oil with a thicker viscosity provides protection from fuel dilution and aids in ensuring adequate moft during times of high-stress operation. Toyota’s owner’s manual even states that the use of a thicker viscosity is acceptable in such scenarios. I guess maybe if the vehicle was operated in straight line on the highway at 55 mph forever, I would be content with a 16w, but even then I still probably wouldn’t use it.
So let me ask you guys this... my wife's '25 hybrid toyota specs 0w8. They said I can use 0w16 and 0w20. Supposedly Toyota has been using 0w8 in Japan since 2006 I think I read? Using 0w16, what oil would work best for her mixed highway and local driving? She doesnt drive it hard by any means, just Id says 70% highway and 30% street.
Im guessing by the mostly highway driving, there shouldnt be much dilution, right? I dont think these hybrids are much of a fuel dilution motor, though I have not looked it up, yet.
It is an interesting development in my eye that Toyota differentiates between models and hybridized or not.
eg
RAV4 or Camry ?
FKS or FXS ?
They are pulling the same stunt with CVT, Rear Differential fluids.
TG WS vs eTransaxle Fluid TE.
I am going to march into a Lexus dealership soon and have a chat with their service department
Let's just confuse the heck out of these drivers.
I got them to tell me that I can use 8,16 and 20w oils, in writing. So I have that, although the guy says he still recommends 0w8. Again for the 100th time lol the manual states as we all know, Toyota says we can use other viscosity oils if driven high speeds. Highway speed limits are 75+ now days.
She has the A25A-FXS motor, what I just noticed is in the manual is also states that the 2.4l can use alternative oils as well and NOT just the 0w-20 it specs for.
These A25A engines seem to run well on just about anything. I’ve used 16 and 20 in ours without problems. Pick your favorite or whatever is on sale.
I have been thinking about something else in relation to this new Rav4 I have with all its fancy engine gizmos. Ultimately it is about engine oil viscosity and the oil filter used on this A25A-FKS Toyota engine. During the time I stirred it up a little on the oil filter forum here, talking about this same new Toyota, I had some members tell me how wrong I was to use the Baldwin B33 oil filters I am using because they don't filter as good as other filters. I noticed, after I bought the car Purolator or Wix didn't make the Boss or the Wix XP for it. I noticed Bosch didn't make a filter for it either. For God's sake, these Toyota Rav4 SUVs are everywhere, you would think they would want to sell filters for them. There is a legitimate reason for that according to the Baldwin filter technical guy I talked to on the phone. The higher efficiency filters can have slower flow because of their higher efficiency plus they may go into bypass sooner when challenged with dirt. Baldwin makes a point to match the ratings of the filters they make with the OEM, not exceed or decrease the specs., match them. Toyota wants the flow, wants the looser filters and wants the lower viscosity oils for a reason. I was told they are using the thinner oils for engine cooling and yes create less drag for better fuel milage, Toyota has minimum flow requirements on their engine oil filters, the thinner oils flow faster and easier, and in turn dissipate heat quicker. The Toyota Service Manager here was ok with using 0w-20, which isn't much different than 0w-16. Anyhow that Baldwin tech guy tried to explain that Toyota has reasons for allowing bird nests and playground pebbles to get through their oil filters, one reason is they want to maintain a certain amount of flow, without going into bypass. They are small filters, if you could increase the hell out of the size of the filter, you could have the flow they want with higher efficiency. Anyhow, Toyota wants flow and cooling, which might, key word being "might", be why my service manager didn't tell me to use Rotella T6 15w-40 or something. As I said on the humor Forum awhile back, " I want a 0w-16 engine oil I can buy on Amazon or on the Walmart shelves in a 5-quart jug for the same price as Mobil 1 that has the same film strength as a 10w-50 engine oil". One of you guys invent that, you may get rich, or richer! I will stick with the 0w-20 for now, though when it gets out of warranty I might switch to 5w-30. Keep in mind, this stuff I write here are just my thoughts, my ideas and some people I have talked to more knowledgeable than me.
And interesting that a stealership would put oil into the engine that is " in conflict " with what the owners manual states is the " preferred " grade of oil - 0W-16 preferred, 0W-20 if the 0W-16 isn't available, but to change the oil back to the preferred grade at the next oil change. Wonder how that would work out for a vehicle owner that had all of their oil and filter changes done at a stealership and developed an oil related engine issue ( like the Toyota Tundras ) ? Who would Toyota "corporate" blame for the issue ?
I just had my first " complimentary " oil and filter change done today and the invoice says that they filled the crankcase with 5 quarts of 0W-16 TGMO and installed their "rock catcher" filter. Owners manual states 4.5 quarts should be used to fill the crankcase to the proper level with the filter also having been changed.
I have since done another oil and filter change today with HPL No VII 5W-30 and a CarQuest Premium oil filter. I noticed that the plastic access cover for the oil drain plug and filter area wasn't installed correctly ( which I correctly reinstalled after I finished my oil change). I'm contemplating not going back to any Toyota stealership for any more of the " complimentary services " that they offered when I purchased the vehicle. I'll do it myself to ensure that the job is done to my standards.
Good idea!!
So you think using 0w-16 would be :bad: versus using the oem fill of 0W-8?
I cant believe we're all honestly having this conversation lol. The manual is so contraindicating its crazy...
Any what about all these foreign countries that have different manuals.
I can tell you what I think, but I am not one of the college educated guys that hang out here. If it was mine, I would use 0w-20 all the time, knowing Toyota wouldn't use that against you, and you get a little higher film strength from it. Now, once you are out of warranty, I would possibly switch to 5w-30. The difference in your fuel milage on this is very small. These engines do have computer-controlled oil and water pumps. These engines need the oil flow, which increases with the lower viscosity oils, so I personally wouldn't go over a 5w-30. As a matter of fact, I may just use the 0w-20 forever. Probably would depend on my mood at the time. However, use the OEM oil filter or a match like the B33 Baldwin I use. DO NOT use one of those "better" tighter filters you can find that will fit. Toyota WANTS the loosie goosy oil filter for the rate of flow through the life of the oil change. I think Wix makes a plain Jane looking white filter now that meets the spec. also. I don't know when Toyota went to this electric computer-controlled oil pump system, just be sure to look up your model in the book, and use that filter. Or if you want simple, go to the dealer and use the OEM filter. So, to answer your question, I would use 0w-20 and be sure you are using the right filter, because they make wrong filters that will fit just fine.
The oil pump has nothing to do with the use of thinner grades.
And flow is the same across the grades.
So, 40 weight goes through the channel as fast as 10 weight if the pressure stays the same at 10 below zero? I am only guessing the electric sensor-controlled oil pump reduces drag in the engine to help with fuel milage, right?
I think Im just going to run the 0w16 since thats spelled out black and white in the manual as a PROVEN manual derived alternative. It's going to always be under warranty since I bought the 10yr/125k extended ( paid pennies for it versus what they wanted to charge me )
Might go 0W20, but most likely will stay with 0w16 since its a bit closer to the 0w8... but I dont know much about oil lol.
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