Toyota recommends 10K intervals. I’ve got oil changes at the dealer till 85K. My plan is to change it every 5K. One by me and one by the dealer. I’m thinking on using M1 ESP 0W20 for 5K intervals then using the dealer 0W20 for 5K intervals. Is it ok to switch back and forth between oils? Thanks.
2024 Toyota Tundra 3.4LTT
- Thread starter ARB1977
- Start date
with the potential engine issues id keep it all dealer right now.Anything they can use to deny warranty they will
You are fine mixing oils. And warranty is a NON issue. It's against the law to deny warranty because someone does their own maintenance.
dnewton3
Staff member
Given the problem of debris in the engine oil system, I'd think this concern over mixing lube should be low on the priority of concerns.
But, to answer your question, it would not matter as long as you use a product approved for the application (right grade and API spec). Given the high risk of engine failure due to debris, I'd make sure to hold onto every receipt as proof that you used adequate products so they have no standing to deny warranty.
But, to answer your question, it would not matter as long as you use a product approved for the application (right grade and API spec). Given the high risk of engine failure due to debris, I'd make sure to hold onto every receipt as proof that you used adequate products so they have no standing to deny warranty.
That’s my plan.
Considering there are a number of people that are still spinning bearings, even on 24’s, I would suggest you flush that oil system out asap and invest in a magnetic drain plug. I don’t believe the whole machining debris claim, it sounds more like a design flaw, but we shall see. Two separate factories in two different countries is very questionable. Also, the OEM filter is only rated at 50% efficiency at 20 µm, this is actually kind of crappy considering a good aftermarket filter is 99%.
After you drain the pan pour about 1/2 quart of oil through the motor to help flush the pan. 0w-20 is a poor oil weight choice for that motor in my opinion, but don’t do anything to make them question it or at least tell them. 5w-30 would be my choice. Thin oil and contaminants inherently equals scoring.
After you drain the pan pour about 1/2 quart of oil through the motor to help flush the pan. 0w-20 is a poor oil weight choice for that motor in my opinion, but don’t do anything to make them question it or at least tell them. 5w-30 would be my choice. Thin oil and contaminants inherently equals scoring.
Last edited:
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
As long as the manufacturer and dealer recommends 10k OCIs and you oblige by getting your oil change done by every 10k, they do not need to know that you are changing your oil halfway thru - at every 5k between their 10k OCIs.
You are good-to-go..... no worries whatsoever. You can even leave the dealer's oil filter on for 10k runs and only change the oil and not the filter at 5k. That's strictly up to you.
You are good-to-go..... no worries whatsoever. You can even leave the dealer's oil filter on for 10k runs and only change the oil and not the filter at 5k. That's strictly up to you.
The only thing I would suggest though not using the OEM filter, considering the whole machining debris fiasco, and a kind of crappy OEM filter that may not be the best idea. It actually has pretty poor filtration ratings.
The only problem with that is the fact that they would see an aftermarket oil filter when doing their service. If they made note of that, however unlikely, he would have to produce receipts and proof of maintenance with approved oil and filters should an engine warranty issue arise. It’s just the possibility of a hassle that’s not worth it over filter choice.
Using OE filters, they’ll never know anything at all when they do their service @10k intervals. All they’ll see is a Toyota filter, just like the one they’re putting back on.
OP, I did fail to address the original question in your post. Using Mobil 1 (If it’s the correct grade / spec for your engine) on your OCI and them using their oil on theirs isn’t going to hurt anything. I think your plan is an excellent plan.
As a side note, I used to dump factory fills early, but have drifted away from that as I have seen too many high mileage engines that went the full 5k plus before dumping it. But in this case, with Toyota’s issue with this engine, I would dump it early, and then again at 5k. Then go the other 5k until their service comes due at 10k.
Last edited:
What’s crazy about the whole engine fiasco is if in fact it is debris. Why is it taking so long for theses engines to fail. Some fail before 10K some fail at 80K. Some are riding along with over 100K. In all of my Toyotas I’ve ran OE filters. About to hit 500 miles, lol.
Can you elaborate. and cite, where your information came from about crappy Toyota oil filters?
Good point. I'm not
convinced it's in fact debris as they say. Also odd they didn't include the '24s since there are failures there. Is the sequoia included?Good point. I'm not
Sequoia were not included because they have the hybrid drivetrain.
The hybrid engine can and has failed. The fact they can use the electric motor to get off the road safely excludes them from the recall.Good point. I'm not
The problem is the CAFE laws are there and manufacturers are just getting you to the end of warranty not doing what’s best for longevity.
Isn’t that motor sandwiched between transmission and engine? I am not sure it can move on its own in case of ICE failure.
What hybrid engine are you referring to?
Toyota filters are among the best I’ve seen.
Outstanding quality in their construction, lots of pleats, thick material, their cartridge set up is actually quite nice.
So, if you’re that far off with your opinion about the filter, how far off are you with your opinion about the rest of the truck?
Similar threads
