2023 HD Road Glide Limited. HPL Primary Oil. Primary fluid analysis at 7400mi.

I’ve got 9500 on it now. Bought it December 21st of 23. Had 8000 total when I pulled the sample.
Then I would consider those numbers normal. Again, the iron is from the compensator, the silicone from the vent, and it just occured to me that the aluminum is probably from the chain momentarily hitting the case on rapid deceleration. There is no filter so whatever gets in the oil stays in the oil, and is probably why HPL is flagging it The oil you are using is top notch, and while you could safely run it to 10k, I would look into going no more than 5k, because you also have to consider there is clutch material not detected by sample floating around in there too. I bet your mag plug had fuzz on it as well. Completely normal. I wouldn’t worry about sampling the primary because of the above explanation. The metal they use on the compensator ramps isn’t the best, and you’ll continue to see high iron. Unless you beat on the bike, your compensator should still last thousands of miles. I’d worry more about what the engine is showing than I would the primary, just change oil and ride.
 
Seems pretty stereotypical HD salesmanship. Hit her back and say something like “ma’am, I’d like to not waste your time or mine test riding a motorcycle that may be out of my price range. Let’s start with a price and go from there.” I hope you get one! I’d get a road king for my cone rodeo stuff
Yep, typical. They want to charge over 20k, but want you to fall in love with it so that 20k+ doesn’t bother you.
 
Then I would consider those numbers normal. Again, the iron is from the compensator, the silicone from the vent, and it just occured to me that the aluminum is probably from the chain momentarily hitting the case on rapid deceleration. There is no filter so whatever gets in the oil stays in the oil, and is probably why HPL is flagging it The oil you are using is top notch, and while you could safely run it to 10k, I would look into going no more than 5k, because you also have to consider there is clutch material not detected by sample floating around in there too. I bet your mag plug had fuzz on it as well. Completely normal. I wouldn’t worry about sampling the primary because of the above explanation. The metal they use on the compensator ramps isn’t the best, and you’ll continue to see high iron. Unless you beat on the bike, your compensator should still last thousands of miles. I’d worry more about what the engine is showing than I would the primary, just change oil and ride.
Great points all around. I expected my mag plug to be loaded, but it didn’t have any more than any other transmission or diff plug I’ve ever pulled. The typical particulate sludge looking stuff. Just a fingertip’s worth of smearable stuff.

5k is what I’m going to stick to. HPL has treated me right and I wish I could run it longer, but I think that unless I rig a filter to that breather tube and retest, 5k seems a safe bet for now.
 
I always change the primary oil when I change the engine oil. Usually around 3500 miles. I have two reasons for this.

First, starting on the Twin Cam the compensator changed and it gave Harley problems for a few years. Still don't think it's nearly up to snuff compared the the old style on my Evo. I had to replace it once.

Second, if you've had your primary apart have you ever taken off the stator cover to look underneath? It;s filthy dirty. Fine metalic particles are attracted by the magnets and stick to it. I think it may eventually cause a stator failure.

I've use Rotella T in the primary for decades. It's cheap and does the job.
 
I wouldn't be concerned about a UOA on a primary, I wouldnt even do a UOA on one but that is just me.. Primaries are dirty swamps with friction (clutch) plates rubbing against each other etc. Its not meant to be a clean place and wear? Well that is what it does, wear out the clutch. Yeah, you have tensioners and stuff but if they say 10k is good, it's good. I always changed sooner on my bikes fluids anyway because I like to.
 
I wouldn't be concerned about a UOA on a primary, I wouldnt even do a UOA on one but that is just me.. Primaries are dirty swamps with friction (clutch) plates rubbing against each other etc. Its not meant to be a clean place and wear? Well that is what it does, wear out the clutch. Yeah, you have tensioners and stuff but if they say 10k is good, it's good. I always changed sooner on my bikes fluids anyway because I like to.
Agreed. Something just didn’t seem right to me with Harley’s recommendation to change it every 10k. Just seemed like a LONG time for the primary. Everyone I know told me to change it every 3-5k. Now I know for a fact.
 
I would expect high numbers like this in the primary. Like alarmguy stated it is a filthy area lots of metal rubbing and clutch wear. Like others have stated iron is most likely from compensator, chain, sprockets and clutch steel plates. The aluminum is probably from the clutch basket where the clutch discs wear on the baskets grooves. There are 2 bearings in primary the inner primary bearing and the clutch hub bearing. I change my primary oil when I do the engine oil at about 5000 miles to help keep these bearings clean.
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I would expect high numbers like this in the primary. Like alarmguy stated it is a filthy area lots of metal rubbing and clutch wear. Like others have stated iron is most likely from compensator, chain, sprockets and clutch steel plates. The aluminum is probably from the clutch basket where the clutch discs wear on the baskets grooves. There are 2 bearings in primary the inner primary bearing and the clutch hub bearing. I change my primary oil when I do the engine oil at about 5000 miles to help keep these bearings clean.
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Thanks for the info! I’m definitely sticking to 5k mile changes on the primary from this point forward. I’m not sure why HD says 10k on the primary. It just doesn’t seem to make sense.
 
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