2023 Camry Hybrid, First OC, change filter too?
- Thread starter MoneyJohn
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Since catching zwarf is always the stated goal of OC#1, I'd think the zwarf-catching factory oil filter is the one to open.
Check for sparklies and globs of sealant.
Check for sparklies and globs of sealant.
Yes change the oil & filter.
Another YouTube mechanic showed how much glitters in his new Tacoma factory fill. No need to keep that in engine.
Another YouTube mechanic showed how much glitters in his new Tacoma factory fill. No need to keep that in engine.
Thanks, doing some car shopping and I was wondering. Seemed too cheap for a trans replacement. Toyota's price... ouch.
I guess you can look at stuff
FWIW, the oil change is through a small access panel.
Maybe if you remove the whole rear belly pan (the one that has the small panel removed in the pic above)?
Note: pictures stolen from here, not pics of my car.
FWIW, I just put my jack under the front lift point, raise 2" maybe, just enough that I can reach under and get the 4(?) screws, then obtain access.
This pic shows location, when you get under you will see a raised metal spot that you can lift from. Not sure but apparently this owner removed the rear belly pan and no longer deals with the access panel. Link (again, not my pics).
Six or seven dollars for an OEM filter is very cheap insurance and peace of mind.
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I mean, the trans lasted 200k miles. Can't really complain, the choice was replace transmission, or sell the car and roll the equity into a vehicle during peak crisis. Yes, toyota price is steep but any independent shop could probably do it for well under 4 grand. I sourced my own trans.
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You can lift along the edges of the car and put in on jacks. The frame has 2 notches/2 dot imprints at the front and back of the leading edge, these are also jack points.
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Correct. Planatary gear coupling of the electric motors and the engine. There is pretty much zero way to service it.
Other than draining and filling? I have not done this yet, but IIRC it's more like servicing a differential on this one, pull the fill plug, then pull the drain. Refill. Not sensitive to level, since it's really just a lube and coolant, and not used with a torque convertor, nor pressurized to move valves, no clutch material, etc.
But I've not read up on it just yet.
I've not been enamored with those. I also haven't bought the pucks required to lift. On my other cars, I would jack under the "frame rail" that most unibodies have. This one, I couldn't, due to the long belly pans that it has. It no longer has those pans as they loaded up with dirt too often and droop, so off they came. I have not looked too closely yet to see if I want to lift there, they might have used thinner metal and it may no longer be a good jacking point (my other cars were all old when I started doing this, if I had some deformation I didn't care).
At some point I'll get the stupid pucks... but then I still need jack stand points. I'll probably wind up using wood cribbing under those rails for that.
For now, for tire rotations, using this central location works ok. Gets one axle at a time.
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Dont need the pucks. If your jack has a puck built in (which A LOT of them do) you should have no issue as those bend points are designed to be used as lift points. This is how you rotate your tires, for example, bu lifting at both points. Its not "just a frame rail" as its a reinforced location marked by the manufacturer. I have been jacking up cars for 30+ years, all of them around that same location.
The only reason I wouldn't, is if your jack does not have a built in puck or is metal on metal contact. That would be dangerous, but this is why I have 1500lb jack stands that I always use as a backup WITH the jack.
Pro tip, don't jave a jack stand? Use a wheel, if the jack fails, it will hit the wheel (unless you are a really really big person).
I agree, Another pro it, use a piece of 2x4 stud and chisel out a gap where to fit this "crease", then jack up the wood stud.
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You can't even drain/fill those. Its a lifetime part and is only subject to replacement, but they literally never fail.
When I was young and dumb, a wheel would suffice. Today, no act of desperation on my part would go this route.
Again, dangerous. If you get the grain perpendicular to the slot, this might be ok, but if you go parallel, you risk splitting.
I prefer wood cribbing under the frame rail. Large contact area, large base, not very tippy.
Shel_B
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Thanks for posting that. I've serviced, and have had serviced, a few of Toyota's hybrid transmissions over the past dozen years. These units need attention, just like any transmission.
From a Toyota bulletin that I got somewhere: Your 2023 Toyota Camry Hybrid transmission filter will need to be replaced every 30,000 or 50,000 miles. Be sure to check your vehicle's maintenance guide for more facts on mileage and time intervals.
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I think that people under estimate the weight carrying capacity of lumber. I work in shoring design and using lumber is part of the process and it can carry very, very high load if done properly.
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