2019 RAM 1500 Sport update - 115,000km

Do you have any theories as to what would cause this? Apparently it's not common.

I had a chuckle when I was talking to the SM, who graciously saved these to show me, and I mentioned that the fluid had been changed at 50,000km and he replied that they like to change it at every 50K, impressing of course that it was a bit over that by about 10,000km when the noise developed, so I laughed and replied that I don't think 10,000km was what killed the bearings and he laughed and agreed. So of course had we change the fluid at 100,000km and the bearings packed it in 10,000km later, how does that look to the customer right?

Figure I'll change it at 150,000km with fluid from @High Performance Lubricants, but going to do the Jeep first, as it's coming up on needing its first change.
Did you check the spall spacing and see if it matched roller spacing? I usually include a metallographic examination of the raceway in cross section to see if there is any microstructure decomposition or white etch cracking to help with the determination.

It could have been preloaded too much with negative preload. This would markedly reduce bearing life.

No miracle lubricant will help with any of the above conditions.
 
Did you check the spall spacing and see if it matched roller spacing? I usually include a metallographic examination of the raceway in cross section to see if there is any microstructure decomposition or white etch cracking to help with the determination.

It could have been preloaded too much with negative preload. This would markedly reduce bearing life.

No miracle lubricant will help with any of the above conditions.
I don't have access to the parts, I assume the SM is sending them to Stellantis, since they covered half the cost, so unfortunately I'm unable to do that :(
 
i drained both of my diffs about a month after having them regeard, fluid was nasty.
To be fair, aftermarket gear sets installed by an indy haven't been run in and lapped together. Admittedly, I don't know how the OEMs do it but I was told at my Yukon training they do. This is why you can fly cross country for a great deal on a new vehicle and immediately hop in and drive thousands of miles with no concerns on gear break-in. Obviously if you did this w aftermarket gears you'd roast them.

Most of what you see in gear oil after an aftermarket install is coating(s) from initial break-in.

But yeah, changing gear lube periodically is never a bad idea ;)
 
“It could have been preloaded too much with negative preload. This would markedly reduce bearing life.

No miracle lubricant will help with any of the above conditions.”

^^^
This ^^^
 
We had an 08 WK, and it was known for inconsistent axle tube alignment from manufacturing. For this reason, the oem fill was a 140 weight, at least in mine, which was a 2WD. It had some gear whine early in life, right outside of warranty, and when I took it to my preferred shop, they wouldn’t touch it. They would only swap in a full unit for that make/model. I towed occassionally with it and besides the noise it never acted up.

Our ‘18 f150 has also had cold weather gear whine since 2021. It’s pretty consistent now but I’ve gotten used to it. We aren’t towing any more with it and it’s not getting any worse.

Our 06 tundra never had axle gear trouble, but all 3 owners towed with it and we towed close to its max weight. After one particularly grueling trip through the mountains, the rear axle was unbelievably hot - I’d never seen anything like it. One of the outboard axle bearings began growling within 3 months of the trip and had to be replaced in a year.

I’d always thought FWD CV axles were a weakness, but maybe it all evens out.
 
Well, the new bearings only lasted until March and diff noise came back, getting progressively worse (much louder than last time). So it went in and they were replaced again (called spalling this time). No explanation as to what might have caused the 2nd failure, but I haven't talked to the SM yet.

Had them put on the new pads and rotors I had sitting here for it (EBC) since they were already going to have the rear apart. Those were a huge upgrade, wife loves the new brakes.

I also mentioned that the truck appeared to be disappearing coolant (you could smell it, but no visible leaks), they found a cracked heater hose, which is a bit disappointing on a 6 year old vehicle.

Unfortunately, the truck got hammered in the ice storm. Had multiple massive tree branches land on it, so the roof has two dents, box side has dents, the hood has two massive dents and the windshield has a big crack in it. This thing is going to be King of the Body Shop here, as this will drive claims against it up into the $30K range I imagine.
 
I usually change the differential oil at around 30-50k miles, but I never touched the diffs on my 2004 E83 X3. Years ago I sold it to a friend and both diffs are still silent at north of 225k miles. Go figure.
 
depending on how it was hit, a non-floating rear axle can hammer inward into the differential. With just a C-clip holding the actual axle in place inside the differential, it can impact the bearings inside quite easily. can't explain the second failure, other than poor installation or metalurgy.
 
Well, the new bearings only lasted until March and diff noise came back, getting progressively worse (much louder than last time). So it went in and they were replaced again (called spalling this time). No explanation as to what might have caused the 2nd failure, but I haven't talked to the SM yet.

Had them put on the new pads and rotors I had sitting here for it (EBC) since they were already going to have the rear apart. Those were a huge upgrade, wife loves the new brakes.

I also mentioned that the truck appeared to be disappearing coolant (you could smell it, but no visible leaks), they found a cracked heater hose, which is a bit disappointing on a 6 year old vehicle.

Unfortunately, the truck got hammered in the ice storm. Had multiple massive tree branches land on it, so the roof has two dents, box side has dents, the hood has two massive dents and the windshield has a big crack in it. This thing is going to be King of the Body Shop here, as this will drive claims against it up into the $30K range I imagine.

That sounds like something wasn't done correctly, improper set-up, failure to clean out the housing and axle tubes completely before the installation of new bearings, etc, a bent axle housing that was overlooked? All possibilities.

I sense a trade-in coming.
 
That sounds like something wasn't done correctly, improper set-up, failure to clean out the housing and axle tubes completely before the installation of new bearings, etc, a bent axle housing that was overlooked? All possibilities.

I sense a trade-in coming.
i have money on a out of spec axle housing after collision. little half ton axle housings aren’t particularly confidence inspiring, especially with what they’re “stating” the can tow/haul now.
 
i have money on a out of spec axle housing after collision. little half ton axle housings aren’t particularly confidence inspiring, especially with what they’re “stating” the can tow/haul now.
It wasn't much of a "collision", she just drove the right rear into the fender of a Chevy Cruz and tore the front end off the car. It did chew up the wheel and dent the box side though.
 
It wasn't much of a "collision", she just drove the right rear into the fender of a Chevy Cruz and tore the front end off the car. It did chew up the wheel and dent the box side though.
that is a large shock load on a piece of cast iron.
 
that is a large shock load on a piece of cast iron.
You think that's worse than just like hitting a curb? It doesn't seem that significant to me. The car was parked, she was in a parking lot, wasn't moving quickly, basically just ground the wheel into the front fender of the car, which ripped the front clip off.
 
You think that's worse than just like hitting a curb? It doesn't seem that significant to me. The car was parked, she was in a parking lot, wasn't moving quickly, basically just ground the wheel into the front fender of the car, which ripped the front clip off.
yeah, you would think hitting a big pot hole at 55mph would load it more, but it seems that something must've gotten tweaked in the axle? I guess in theory its maybe a bit stronger in the vertical axis over horizontal?
 
yeah, you would think hitting a big pot hole at 55mph would load it more, but it seems that something must've gotten tweaked in the axle? I guess in theory its maybe a bit stronger in the vertical axis over horizontal?
yes, the axle is designed for vertical loads/shocks. not so much horizontal. it’s even worse on these as they are 4-linked with coil springs. on other pickups leafs can flex forward/backward.
 
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