Per Blackstone Lab.....
JOSEPH: This is a young engine so the extra copper in this sample is likely still lingering from
wear-in, even if there have been a few oil changes already. We doubt it shows trouble with brass/bronze
parts. Averages for a mature 2.4L GDI are based on about 5,500 miles of oil use, and the rest of your
metals look fantastic next to those. A trace of fuel was found, but it's harmless and from normal use. The
thin viscosity isn't a big concern, either. So far, so good!
Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W/30
11,200 unit -- 3800 miles OCI
Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L GDI
ALUMINUM..............3
CHROMIUM.............0
IRON.......................13
COPPER..................9
LEAD........................0
TIN...........................0
MOLYBDENUM......243
NICKEL....................0
MANGANESE..........1
SILVER....................0
TITANIUM...............24
POTASSIUM...........2
BORON..................91
SILICON.................15
SODIUM..................6
CALCIUM.............1156
MAGNESIUM.........712
PHOSPHORUS.....713
ZINC......................784
BARIUM..................0
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F...53.5
Flashpoint in °F................375
cst
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Fuel %.............................TR
Water%..........................0.00
Antifreeze %..................0.00
Insolubles %..................0.03
Moly is up a little due to a half-bottle of MoS2 added. Mostly all 10 minute warmups during the winter and mostly all city driving. Engine did see long Sunday drives on the freeway for a half-hour at-least.
Not really happy with Valvoline Advanced results. Currently have Valvoline Modern Engine 5w30 running.
Serviceable / Ho-Hum is my opinion
After Modern Engine comes Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Then my life with SN Plus ends and moves to SP / GF6 Dexos1 Gen2.
Why would you dump MoS2 in that new engine? It can damage your oil pump amongst other things. I have the same engine in my 2018 Santa Fe Sport. I also had this engine in three Sonatas all the way back to 2010. This engine is a design that was inherited from Mitsubishi and Hyundai improved upon it. It doesn't like thin oils because it's not exactly manufactured with unbelievable precision, however, it doesn't need thick oils either. It's happiest at 11 ~ 12 cst @ 100C. Just use some Castrol EDGE 0W-40 from Walmart and watch your low-end torque improve. You're concerned about warranty? Well, technically you already voided it by using that garbage MoS 2. Anyway, lets get on with it. You're worried about warranty, just get the Castrol EDGE 5W-30 API SL European Formula from Walmart. If anything, just like the 0W-40, that will actually protect your motor. It's only labeled API SL so they can get the API starburst logo and sell it in places like Walmart. It's a modern oil. Mobil 1 has their Mobil 1 FS 0W-30 and 5W-30 labeled as API SL, though strangely, you can't seem to find them here in the US, then Pennzoil has 5W-30 EURO which is API SL. Who uses them? Well, folks who drive a BMW and need Longlife 01 certified oil. It's goad a boat load of ZDDP and good detergents. It's a good oil. Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is also awesome, it will actually keep your engine clean and happy. Use a decent oil filter like FRAM Ultra or Purolator BOSS. The Fram ULTRA will have slightly better filtration at the cost of oil flow, but that's another discussion. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if some of that sludge that MoS 2 isn't get caught up in the oil filter until it clogs it up.
Still, if you like to see hight Moly numbers on your UOA, use Lubegard Bio Tech. It won't do anything for your engine except thin the oil a bit. It helps if you have roller lifters, however, I have yet to locate the roller lifters along with the SOHC camshaft in my Theta II engine.
The main reason why I went to 0W-40 is to help with fuel dilution. Sometimes the car gets shortripped, sometis it sees a lot of highway miles. Life takes us where it takes us. Having a cushion in there gives me some piece of mind. The Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in particular doesn't like to mix itself with other stuff, keep that in mind. All I have to do now is run an UOA as soon as I get a chance.
Take my advice for what you want, I'm just trying to help and prevent you from damaging your engine. Look at my signature if you want to see what I'm running. All our engines work beautifully with those oils in the crankcase. I might got to Red Line 5W-30 though on the pickup truck just because I'm paranoid about lifters. We'll see.
Oh, before I forget: I ran, by the book Valvoline Synthetic 5W-20 in my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6. I bought the car brand new, babied it and did 7500 mile OCI like clockwork. At around 30,000 miles the engine started ticking. It was the valvetrain, probably a sticky lifter or something. The dealer gave me the runaround as Hyundai dealers do, and at 35,000 miles I traded it in for a new 2011 Sonata 2.4 GDI with the 6 speed manual, cheapest new car I could find at the time. I swore off Valvoline forever and honestly, there is no good reason to buy it when there are so many excellent oils like (in no particular order): Castrol EDGE, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum, Quaker State, Rotell Gas Truck. Oh, Rotella Gas Truck 5W-30 is pretty fricking good and has like 200ppm of Moly. Again, for the 2.4 GDI Moly is not important and there are other friction modifiers that don't show up on VOA/UOA like Antimony. Castrol EDGE has no Moly in it, however, it has other friction modifiers that are more complex.
