2019 Hyundai Santa Fe Valvoline Advanced 5w30 11,200 unit / 3800 OCI

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Just a heads up, Liqui Moly moly is hard on seals. I was using it in our CAT pumps at work at the correct label amounts and was taking out seals early. I called and talked to an R&D oil chemist at Summit Industrial Products (Kluber) about if they had a better synthetic oil for this application, I told him I was adding that Moly and the first thing he asked was "Are you having seal leaks"? I did not tell him I was having seal leaks. The black moly is not refined enough or is too course for long term use on seals. I dropped using it and have not had to replace a seal yet.
 
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Originally Posted by 77Se7en
Chris I did not smell fuel at any time and I checked the oil several times. I also smelled the drained oil and it smelled like oil. I've used a half-bottle (6.5oz) of MoS2 before and shearing wasn't an issue. The jug was purchased between Thanksgiving and Christmas at Walmart and this store is big city - high volume. For only 3.8k or-so, the drop raised my feathers. The flashpoint drop raised my blood pressure.....lol
The best 5w30 I have ever put in my Hyundai GDI engine, and have ever used period, is Rotella T6 Multi Vehicle. That engine does like Valvoline Synthetic Maxlife 0w20 as well.
*Good to know - I may try the Rotella T6 for grins ... Regardless of the sheering on the Valvoline at least the wear numbers looked good on the above UOA ! I won't run any synthetic 5W30 oil past a 4K mile OCI though on my Hyundai 2.4L in mixed driving conditions .
 
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Per Blackstone Lab..... JOSEPH: This is a young engine so the extra copper in this sample is likely still lingering from wear-in, even if there have been a few oil changes already. We doubt it shows trouble with brass/bronze parts. Averages for a mature 2.4L GDI are based on about 5,500 miles of oil use, and the rest of your metals look fantastic next to those. A trace of fuel was found, but it's harmless and from normal use. The thin viscosity isn't a big concern, either. So far, so good! Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W/30 11,200 unit -- 3800 miles OCI Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L GDI ALUMINUM..............3 CHROMIUM.............0 IRON.......................13 COPPER..................9 LEAD........................0 TIN...........................0 MOLYBDENUM......243 NICKEL....................0 MANGANESE..........1 SILVER....................0 TITANIUM...............24 POTASSIUM...........2 BORON..................91 SILICON.................15 SODIUM..................6 CALCIUM.............1156 MAGNESIUM.........712 PHOSPHORUS.....713 ZINC......................784 BARIUM..................0 SUS Viscosity @ 210°F...53.5 Flashpoint in °F................375 cst [email protected] Fuel %.............................TR Water%..........................0.00 Antifreeze %..................0.00 Insolubles %..................0.03 Moly is up a little due to a half-bottle of MoS2 added. Mostly all 10 minute warmups during the winter and mostly all city driving. Engine did see long Sunday drives on the freeway for a half-hour at-least. Not really happy with Valvoline Advanced results. Currently have Valvoline Modern Engine 5w30 running. Serviceable / Ho-Hum is my opinion After Modern Engine comes Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Then my life with SN Plus ends and moves to SP / GF6 Dexos1 Gen2.
*This UOA may have shown some shearing with the Valvoline - what the UOA did not show is that Valvoline Advanced has a add pack that results in very low intake valve deposits . With a Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine - I am not interested in a long OCI - wear protection , cleanliness of the engine and a low intake valve depsoit add pack for OCI's between 3,750 to 5,000 miles are of greater interest .
 
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Originally Posted by 77Se7en
Chris I did not smell fuel at any time and I checked the oil several times. I also smelled the drained oil and it smelled like oil. I've used a half-bottle (6.5oz) of MoS2 before and shearing wasn't an issue. The jug was purchased between Thanksgiving and Christmas at Walmart and this store is big city - high volume. For only 3.8k or-so, the drop raised my feathers. The flashpoint drop raised my blood pressure.....lol
The best 5w30 I have ever put in my Hyundai GDI engine, and have ever used period, is Rotella T6 Multi Vehicle. That engine does like Valvoline Synthetic Maxlife 0w20 as well.

The Rotella T6 is a fantastic oil I've been wanting to try myself in my Outback 3.6, but it's more expensive and harder to find than I would have anticipated. Perhaps Rotella Gas Truck is an "ok" substitute?
 
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The Rotella T6 is a fantastic oil I've been wanting to try myself in my Outback 3.6, but it's more expensive and harder to find than I would have anticipated. Perhaps Rotella Gas Truck is an "ok" substitute?

For a 3.6 Outback I would strongly recommend Mobil 1 0w40.
 
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I recently completed a 4,500 mile run in my 17 SantaFe with the 2.4 engine with Valvoline Modern Engine 5-30. I had a dramatic increase in oil consumption. Had to add a half quart every 1,500 miles. Changed back to Quaker State 5-30 syn and have not had any oil use now in 1,000 miles.
 
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Per Blackstone Lab..... JOSEPH: This is a young engine so the extra copper in this sample is likely still lingering from wear-in, even if there have been a few oil changes already. We doubt it shows trouble with brass/bronze parts. Averages for a mature 2.4L GDI are based on about 5,500 miles of oil use, and the rest of your metals look fantastic next to those. A trace of fuel was found, but it's harmless and from normal use. The thin viscosity isn't a big concern, either. So far, so good! Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W/30 11,200 unit -- 3800 miles OCI Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L GDI ALUMINUM..............3 CHROMIUM.............0 IRON.......................13 COPPER..................9 LEAD........................0 TIN...........................0 MOLYBDENUM......243 NICKEL....................0 MANGANESE..........1 SILVER....................0 TITANIUM...............24 POTASSIUM...........2 BORON..................91 SILICON.................15 SODIUM..................6 CALCIUM.............1156 MAGNESIUM.........712 PHOSPHORUS.....713 ZINC......................784 BARIUM..................0 SUS Viscosity @ 210°F...53.5 Flashpoint in °F................375 cst [email protected] Fuel %.............................TR Water%..........................0.00 Antifreeze %..................0.00 Insolubles %..................0.03 Moly is up a little due to a half-bottle of MoS2 added. Mostly all 10 minute warmups during the winter and mostly all city driving. Engine did see long Sunday drives on the freeway for a half-hour at-least. Not really happy with Valvoline Advanced results. Currently have Valvoline Modern Engine 5w30 running. Serviceable / Ho-Hum is my opinion After Modern Engine comes Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Then my life with SN Plus ends and moves to SP / GF6 Dexos1 Gen2.

Why would you dump MoS2 in that new engine? It can damage your oil pump amongst other things. I have the same engine in my 2018 Santa Fe Sport. I also had this engine in three Sonatas all the way back to 2010. This engine is a design that was inherited from Mitsubishi and Hyundai improved upon it. It doesn't like thin oils because it's not exactly manufactured with unbelievable precision, however, it doesn't need thick oils either. It's happiest at 11 ~ 12 cst @ 100C. Just use some Castrol EDGE 0W-40 from Walmart and watch your low-end torque improve. You're concerned about warranty? Well, technically you already voided it by using that garbage MoS 2. Anyway, lets get on with it. You're worried about warranty, just get the Castrol EDGE 5W-30 API SL European Formula from Walmart. If anything, just like the 0W-40, that will actually protect your motor. It's only labeled API SL so they can get the API starburst logo and sell it in places like Walmart. It's a modern oil. Mobil 1 has their Mobil 1 FS 0W-30 and 5W-30 labeled as API SL, though strangely, you can't seem to find them here in the US, then Pennzoil has 5W-30 EURO which is API SL. Who uses them? Well, folks who drive a BMW and need Longlife 01 certified oil. It's goad a boat load of ZDDP and good detergents. It's a good oil. Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is also awesome, it will actually keep your engine clean and happy. Use a decent oil filter like FRAM Ultra or Purolator BOSS. The Fram ULTRA will have slightly better filtration at the cost of oil flow, but that's another discussion. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if some of that sludge that MoS 2 isn't get caught up in the oil filter until it clogs it up.

Still, if you like to see hight Moly numbers on your UOA, use Lubegard Bio Tech. It won't do anything for your engine except thin the oil a bit. It helps if you have roller lifters, however, I have yet to locate the roller lifters along with the SOHC camshaft in my Theta II engine.

The main reason why I went to 0W-40 is to help with fuel dilution. Sometimes the car gets shortripped, sometis it sees a lot of highway miles. Life takes us where it takes us. Having a cushion in there gives me some piece of mind. The Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in particular doesn't like to mix itself with other stuff, keep that in mind. All I have to do now is run an UOA as soon as I get a chance.

Take my advice for what you want, I'm just trying to help and prevent you from damaging your engine. Look at my signature if you want to see what I'm running. All our engines work beautifully with those oils in the crankcase. I might got to Red Line 5W-30 though on the pickup truck just because I'm paranoid about lifters. We'll see.

Oh, before I forget: I ran, by the book Valvoline Synthetic 5W-20 in my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6. I bought the car brand new, babied it and did 7500 mile OCI like clockwork. At around 30,000 miles the engine started ticking. It was the valvetrain, probably a sticky lifter or something. The dealer gave me the runaround as Hyundai dealers do, and at 35,000 miles I traded it in for a new 2011 Sonata 2.4 GDI with the 6 speed manual, cheapest new car I could find at the time. I swore off Valvoline forever and honestly, there is no good reason to buy it when there are so many excellent oils like (in no particular order): Castrol EDGE, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum, Quaker State, Rotell Gas Truck. Oh, Rotella Gas Truck 5W-30 is pretty fricking good and has like 200ppm of Moly. Again, for the 2.4 GDI Moly is not important and there are other friction modifiers that don't show up on VOA/UOA like Antimony. Castrol EDGE has no Moly in it, however, it has other friction modifiers that are more complex.
 
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I've considered that from time to time actually but haven't pulled the trigger on that yet. Not to highjack this post, but why 0w-40 over 5w-30 for the 3.6?

This applies to anything, not just Subaru, so I don't think it would hijack this thread.

The kinetic viscosity of Mobil 1 0w40 is just above the threshold between 30 and 40 weight oils so in reality you are getting an oil that is not THAT much heavier. I personally like M1 0W40 because it has several high level approvals, a high TBN, and can usually be with a rebate on top of a more than reasonable purchase price for what you get. And it works well year round in everything I have tried it in that calls for 5w30, it has become one of my go-to oils that I use without hesitation. I also happen to know a lot of people who use this in a Subaru 3.6 engine and all have had excellent results.
 
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This applies to anything, not just Subaru, so I don't think it would hijack this thread.

The kinetic viscosity of Mobil 1 0w40 is just above the threshold between 30 and 40 weight oils so in reality you are getting an oil that is not THAT much heavier. I personally like M1 0W40 because it has several high level approvals, a high TBN, and can usually be with a rebate on top of a more than reasonable purchase price for what you get. And it works well year round in everything I have tried it in that calls for 5w30, it has become one of my go-to oils that I use without hesitation. I also happen to know a lot of people who use this in a Subaru 3.6 engine and all have had excellent results.

Thanks Ignatius, appreciate the breakdown. Summer is winding down here in Colorado and I have some vanilla mobil 1 and RGT to finish off then will likely give 0w-40 a good go. Lots of miles coming up soon so shouldn't be too long and definitely don't want all my stash to go to waste of course. Or I could always run the 0w-40 first hmmmmmm......lol
 
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From what I've seen Castrol Edge has the least shearing (in the presence of fuel) of any SN+ GF-5 5W-30 tested in a 3.5EB. It might be worth a try in that engine if your trying to limit the shearing. Really though nothing wrong with that analysis unless the grade drop bothers you.

Could it be that Castrol EDGE 5W-30 has the least shearing because Castrol makes it from Group III base stock? I know that EDGE 5W-30 flows like crap at -20C when compared to Mobil 1 and Pennzoil, not that I ever see temps like that. Just saying because usually Group III oils don't flow that well at cold temperatures.
 
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Could it be that Castrol EDGE 5W-30 has the least shearing because Castrol makes it from Group III base stock? I know that EDGE 5W-30 flows like crap at -20C when compared to Mobil 1 and Pennzoil, not that I ever see temps like that. Just saying because usually Group III oils don't flow that well at cold temperatures.

Back when Edge first came out it was GIII/PAO. However that is old info. My understanding is if anything GTL is actually harder to shear than regular GIII but SOPUS has a surplus of 3 cSt GTL so they have to do something with it. So their typical lighter grades of PCMO product likely have more VII if my supposition is correct. Also if my supposition is correct their 0W-20 might behave much differently compared to their 5W-30. I haven't really looked at PPU 0W-20 shearing but it might be interesting.
 
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I haven't really looked at PPU 0W-20 shearing but it might be interesting.

I wonder if there is any real difference between PUP 0W-20 and 5W-20. All the 0W-20 needs to do is have a lower our point so it works in colder climates. Looking at their respective PDS documentation both oils have a pour point of -48C.
 
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The Rotella T6 is a fantastic oil I've been wanting to try myself in my Outback 3.6, but it's more expensive and harder to find than I would have anticipated. Perhaps Rotella Gas Truck is an "ok" substitute?

5W-40 is in gallon jugs at every WalMart I've ever checked. But I live where anything over 20,000 is a city and 100,000 a Big City.

5W-30 is more of a specialized item.
 
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I wonder if there is any real difference between PUP 0W-20 and 5W-20. All the 0W-20 needs to do is have a lower our point so it works in colder climates. Looking at their respective PDS documentation both oils have a pour point of -48C.

I just was looking at a PP 5W-20 11,000 mi drain in a Gen III Hemi 5.7L Charger. It thickened to 9.37 cSt at 100C. Kind of what I was suspecting if the 5W-20 and 5W-30 used essentially same base blend and a radical different amount of VII.

EDIT: Oops! Just realized someone time traveled that topic from 2015. Likely not relevant.
 
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I just was looking at a PP 5W-20 11,000 mi drain in a Gen III Hemi 5.7L Charger. It thickened to 9.37 cSt at 100C. Kind of what I was suspecting if the 5W-20 and 5W-30 used essentially same base blend and a radical different amount of VII.

EDIT: Oops! Just realized someone time traveled that topic from 2015. Likely not relevant.

Oxidation?
 
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Oxidation?

Most likely, but as I said in the edit most likely that's the older formulation and not really relevant. However if an oil has minimum shearing you would expect it to thicken with the run. We used to see this very commonly with the formulas of M1 and Amsoil from 15 - 20 years ago where they would be at their thinnest in a 3,000 mi run (Usually only a 2 -3% loss) and then thicken until they reached the condemnation limit at 15,000 - 30,000 mi.
 
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5W-40 is in gallon jugs at every WalMart I've ever checked. But I live where anything over 20,000 is a city and 100,000 a Big City.

5W-30 is more of a specialized item.

Yeah I can find the 5w40 version easily as well...which I believe is only a diesel oil if I'm not mistaken. The 5w-30 I believe Advanced, Oreily's and Napa sell (at least online) at $29 + for a 5qt jug.
 
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Yeah I can find the 5w40 version easily as well...which I believe is only a diesel oil if I'm not mistaken. The 5w-30 I believe Advanced, Oreily's and Napa sell (at least online) at $29 + for a 5qt jug.

May be two versions of 5W-30. CK-4 (Over 3.5 HTHS and higher Zinc / Phosphorus) & FA-4 the new low HTHS and lower ash version. I'm not sure but that is becoming common in the industry with the new fuel economy standards.

EDIT: At this time FA-4 is only available in T5 10W-30 so you don't have to worry about getting the low HTHS version apparently.

BTW Now that I think about it I did see Multi-Vehicle at my O'reilly's. I'm guessing for the SuperDuty Drivers that need 5W-30 CK-4.
 
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Thread drift much????

Anyway. I used 10w30 exclusively on my GDI 2.4 Theta. It seemed happiest with this regimen based on the amount of noise generated by the engine. As in, I could barely hear it running other than the direct injection system.

Keep in mind I live in Central Texas and the coldest starts I have in a typical winter is in the low to mid 20s so not exactly cold by "up-north" standards.

I had a non-DI 2.4 before this, it also liked 10w30. Ran perfect for 150k until my stepdaughter trashed it, but anyway.

Recently sold my DI Theta, 2012 Sonata 6 speed. It needed a bunch of work and I was bored with it. Sold it to my BIL car lot along with the replacement pads and rotors I already had purchased.
 
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