2013 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0T - OCI and viscosity?

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I have the 2.0T motor in my 2011 Kia Optima, and it is a sweet motor that needs good oil and not extended OCI's. I used M1 5W-30 for two 5K OCI's, and BOTH subsequent UOA's showed that it had dropped to 20W viscosity in that time. I'm now finishing the second OCI with Redline 5W-30 (more like a 5W-40) that doesn't show that problem. I'll use PU 5W-30 for next few OCI's to see how it compares with Redline for gas mileage and oil viscosity loss.

Fuel dilution may be part of the viscosity loss, but my UOA's don't show it IF I get the engine fully warm just prior to changing the oil. Same was true of my prior Audi A3 2.0T TFSI MOTOR.
 
Originally Posted By: Hallmark
Originally Posted By: Debyne
I just ordered a 10 pack of Hyundai/Kia OEM filters for $50 out the door on eBay...not bad. Thanks for your insight.


When your OEM filters arrive, inspect a filter to observe some of the many reasons that folks recommend them. Note the shrink-wrap packaging to ID the filter as a genuine OEM product (there are counterfeits in the marketplace) and prevent contamination. Observe the paint quality (e.g. no overspray on internals), weight of filter (can thickness, no plastic internals, etc.), cleanliness of threads, end plate, internals (e.g. no fabrication/assembly debris, etc.). Then do some research here to note cut-open filter comparisons where the OEM filter's components, assembly, and service durability excel. Then most importantly, be assured that the filter is engineered to meet the manufacturer's specs for your engine.

BTW, the OEM filters are manufactured by Mobis, a Hyundai corporate affilite within the huge Hyundai/Kia conglomerate...they make great automotive parts. And no, I'm not a Hyundai employee or investor. I just prefer quality products in my rides.
Thanks for the advice. I bought the 10-pack off eBay, so are you saying that the best way to identify if it's genuine is whether the filter itself has shrink wrap around it?
 
Originally Posted By: DFrost
I have the 2.0T motor in my 2011 Kia Optima, and it is a sweet motor that needs good oil and not extended OCI's. I used M1 5W-30 for two 5K OCI's, and BOTH subsequent UOA's showed that it had dropped to 20W viscosity in that time. I'm now finishing the second OCI with Redline 5W-30 (more like a 5W-40) that doesn't show that problem. I'll use PU 5W-30 for next few OCI's to see how it compares with Redline for gas mileage and oil viscosity loss.

Fuel dilution may be part of the viscosity loss, but my UOA's don't show it IF I get the engine fully warm just prior to changing the oil. Same was true of my prior Audi A3 2.0T TFSI MOTOR.
So these motors shear oil pretty bad? Were you mostly city or highway driving or an even mix of both? I'm wondering if mostly city driving really warrants changing at the severe OCI even with M1.
 
You can probably stretch it to 5k, and hyundai warrants their filters for 6 months/7500 miles (the real reason behind the maintenance guide allowing 7500 intervals).
One thing to keep in mind is that Hyundai will not accept or recognize a motor oil's claims for extended intervals, for instance, using Mobil 1 EP beyond 7500 and having the motor go, Hyundai may decline warranty coverage for the motor.
DIY guys, or those that are loyal to a garage or a mechanic can get pretty frustrated with Hyundai.
Point being, follow the dealership service department's recomendations. As long as the vehicle is under warranty, Hyundai reserves the rights to call the shots regarding maintenance.
 
Fuel dilution is common for turbo and direct injected cars when driving for short periods.

It cannot be helped or prevented at least with this current generation of engine and oils.

If you do mostly city driving, then stick with the severe 3,750 mile OCI, even with M1.
 
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Fuel dilution is common for turbo and direct injected cars when driving for short periods.

It cannot be helped or prevented at least with this current generation of engine and oils.

If you do mostly city driving, then stick with the severe 3,750 mile OCI, even with M1.
Do you think the dilution issue gets better as more miles are put on the engine, or is it an issue for the life of the car?

If I stick to 3,750 as the OCI, makes me wonder if synthetic is even worth it.
frown.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: Debyne
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Fuel dilution is common for turbo and direct injected cars when driving for short periods.

It cannot be helped or prevented at least with this current generation of engine and oils.

If you do mostly city driving, then stick with the severe 3,750 mile OCI, even with M1.
Do you think the dilution issue gets better as more miles are put on the engine, or is it an issue for the life of the car?

If I stick to 3,750 as the OCI, makes me wonder if synthetic is even worth it.
frown.gif



My advice, as someone who has provided personal testimony on this thread about the LACK of fuel dilution in my Hyundai DI engine with ordinary short trips, is to spend 25 bucks one time on an oil analysis kit from Blackstone and see for yourself where you stand.

Have the guy who does your oil changes capture a sample in the proper way as directed on the instructions, and send it in. You can then pretty much rest easy, with actual evidence unique to your car and driving patterns, whether you need to change the oil more frequently or whether you will be fine.
 
A number of Subie turbo owners have been very specific in their posts here in stating that M1 is not a good choice for their engines.
Now, you may not have a Subie and these guys may be insane, but if a group of experienced turbo car owners have a general tendency to avoid any given brand oil, I'd avoid it.
PP or PU would both be good choices, as might the cheaper QSUD.
Valvoline Maxlife seems to deal very well with fuel dilution, based upon the one UOA I ran of Maxlife Nextgen from my old BMW, which showed 2.9% fuel dilution and very low wear.
Ignore the "high mileage" name and focus on the actual game.
Maxlife meets API SN, so it isn't anything that would hurt your engines or void your warranties.
I'd stay with a 5W-30 in these engines.
You might try a UOA after a few changes and some miles.
A UOA of the FF will tell you nothing other than there sure will be a lot of breakin wear metals in the oil.
After the first 10-15K total, a UOA will give more meaningful results.
If wear looks good, viscosity has held up and fuel dilution looks low, you might consider a 5W-20.
Fuel dilution is often disguised as a loss in viscosity, even where the fuel percentage listed in the UOA report looks low.
Finally, why two of the same car?
BOGO?
J/K
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27

Finally, why two of the same car?
BOGO?
J/K
What does BOGO stand for? We got my wife the Santa Fe and absolutely loved it. I was ready to get a new car too, but all my extensive analysis I did buying the first Santa Fe led me once again to the same car. I test drove a bunch, but I liked the Santa Fe as the best bang for the buck overall with all the functionality I wanted.
 
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I was really kidding.
BOGO means buy one get one free.
I'm glad that you found a car that both you and your wife like enough that you each wanted one as a daily driver.
We'd get bored with that.
My wife has commented that I like driving different cars, while she is happy with one she likes.
She has yet to drive the '12 Accord, but she is very fond of the Forester.
She'd probably like a Santa Fe as well.
It is no doubt a well designed and pleasant machine.
I myself like the Forester because it is unlike most other cars.
It is magic in bad condtions, no surprise, since Subaru has one of the best AWD systems out there.
Subaru does set the standard for AWD.
It also has the HO engine, which is unique among current production cars.
Not really better, just different.
Different is interesting, and the Forester could have an inline four or a small V-6 and my wife would neither know nor care.
 
The problem I have is that we both want hatchbacks for what we need to do; we're done with sedans and I don't care about sports cars and going fast. My wife carts around the kids and I go biking and skiing. So, neither of us wanted to borrow the other's car for anything we functionally needed, and the Santa Fe is, for us, the perfect balance of size (relatively compact for parking), cargo space, awesome looks, price, amazing warranty, great reliability, technological features, etc. For example, I didn't like Ford's MyTouch system compared to Hyundai's system, which was much more intuitive and easier to operate.
 
So just for posterity's sake, we can say undoubtedly that the car manual does not expressly allow for 5w-20 in the 2.0T, right?
 
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
So just for posterity's sake, we can say undoubtedly that the car manual does not expressly allow for 5w-20 in the 2.0T, right?
It does on the back of the manual, but not inside the manual...contradicts itself. Given the contradiction, the fact that the oil cap says 5w30, and that everyone seems to think 5w20 would be bad for the 2.0T, I wouldn't touch 5w20.
 
Originally Posted By: Debyne
Originally Posted By: Hallmark
Originally Posted By: Debyne
I just ordered a 10 pack of Hyundai/Kia OEM filters for $50 out the door on eBay...not bad. Thanks for your insight.


When your OEM filters arrive, inspect a filter to observe some of the many reasons that folks recommend them. Note the shrink-wrap packaging to ID the filter as a genuine OEM product (there are counterfeits in the marketplace) and prevent contamination. Observe the paint quality (e.g. no overspray on internals), weight of filter (can thickness, no plastic internals, etc.), cleanliness of threads, end plate, internals (e.g. no fabrication/assembly debris, etc.). Then do some research here to note cut-open filter comparisons where the OEM filter's components, assembly, and service durability excel. Then most importantly, be assured that the filter is engineered to meet the manufacturer's specs for your engine.

BTW, the OEM filters are manufactured by Mobis, a Hyundai corporate affilite within the huge Hyundai/Kia conglomerate...they make great automotive parts. And no, I'm not a Hyundai employee or investor. I just prefer quality products in my rides.
Thanks for the advice. I bought the 10-pack off eBay, so are you saying that the best way to identify if it's genuine is whether the filter itself has shrink wrap around it?


The fake filters substitute some Chinese characters for Korean characters on the filter. There used to be online (eBay) photos of what to look for to ID the fakes, but the photos seem to have been removed when the vendor's filter offer expired. The authentic Hyundai filters will have shrink wrap covering the mating surface (open end) of the filter. Check the Lot Number of the filter...Lot No. '11 filters have Hyundai logos on the wrap; Lot No. '12 filters have clear wrap. I suspect the OEM filter wrap serves the dual purpose of (1) quality control to keep the open end surfaces clean prior to installation and (2) serving as an authenticity guide.

The Chinese-made fake filters have only ~50% of the OEM filter media and can be detected by viewing the irregularity and sparsity of media pleats when looking into the filter.
 
I find it odd that many still reference a 2005 Tech Bulletin when it comes to oil filters and Hyundai. Yes, the oem is a great filter but you will also be fine with a Mobil 1, Purolator PureOne, Bosch ED, K&N, Mann, Wix etc. All of which meet or exceed oem.
 
Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
Unless something has changed, do not EVER use 5W20 in your engine. The 5W20 recommendation is only for the non-turbo engines unless they have changed it for 2013.

This is just conjecture. The back of the 2013 Santa Fe Sport Owners Manual has a quick reference guide. Included is the oil options excerpt. It lists, 5w20, 5w30 and 10w30 as acceptable. That is all it says.
 
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I had a 2011 KIA Optima 2.0 Turbo and currently own a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0T. I've used synthetic QS 5w-30 in both with great results. Hyundai/KIA filters are, in my opinion, the best for these engines. A buddy of mine is the Service Manager at the local KIA dealership. Hyundai and KIA are very particular about their warranties. Don't give them any reason to turn down any warranty work. I would use OEM filters. There is actually a KIA TSB out that actually makes reference to use of NON-OEM filters causing valve train noise. He told me that the pressure valves in the OEM filters are designed specifically for our engines. Just my 2 cents.
 
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