2013 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0T - OCI and viscosity?

[Debyne]

Hi everyone...this is my first post on this forum, so I hope I don't screw it up.

I just bought two 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sports with the 2.0 GDI turbo engines w/ AWD. I live in Seattle so it gets cold but not bitterly cold like the many other parts of the country. Car manual says normal OCI is 5,000 miles and severe is 3,000 miles; also per the manual, I can use 5w20, 5w30 or 10w30 oil depending on temp ranges; the oil cap says 5w30. Given it's a turbo, I was going to just use Mobil 1 (5 gallon jug from Walmart) along with WIX oil filters.

These are my questions:
-Is Mobil 1 a really good synthetic for turbocharged engines? I'm really just getting it because I've heard great things and it's cheap at Walmart.
-What viscosity would you recommend? Should I use 5w20 in the winter and 5w30 in the spring/summer? Or should I just stick with 5w30 all the time and just forget about it?
-I don't do any towing or offroading, but I do have a lot of trips (as part of my job) less than 10 miles. If I'm using synthetic oil, do you think I could just stick to the normal OCI of 5,000 miles without having to go with severe of 3,000?

Thanks.

 

[bourne]

I would stick with the 5w30 weight. Since your engine is has a turbo, using an oil that meets Acura's HT-06 spec would be an excellent idea. Since you are short tripping a lot, I would prefer a 5w30 syn oil which is on the thinner side. Hyundai's factory fill is Quaker State and Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 also meets Acura HT-06 spec. It also can be found at Walmart for $20.97 for a 5 qt jug. That would be my first choice, followed by PP 5w30, Synpower 5w30 and then M1 5w30.

 

[71Chevyguy]

Unless something has changed, do not EVER use 5W20 in your engine. The 5W20 recommendation is only for the non-turbo engines unless they have changed it for 2013. I really wish they would make that more clear in the manual because it will lead to many engines blowing up from the thin oil being left in there too long with fuel dilution from the GDI. I have the non turbo engine and it does dump a lot of fuel in the oil. You are almost at least, for now, best off using a thicker oil that will still be in range after having a ton of fuel dumped into it. Many on here that have the turbo GDI engine are using 5W40 of some sort and that is probably the best choice till you get some miles on it. My car is at about 10k miles now and there is less fuel in the oil than there used to be. I guess break in does help with the fuel issues in some cars. It sure helped mine. But you do not want an already thin oil to get watered down with fuel and make it go out of grade when you have a turbocharger to lubricate. Just my opinion from the research I have done on this topic. I would suggest Rotella T6 5w40 or Mobil 1 0W40 / 5W40 as a good starting point.

As for your intervals I would suggest about 3,300 mile intervals till your first 10k miles which would be 3 changes. If by then yours stops dumping fuel into the oil like mine did then you probably can extend it out to 5k if you do some highway driving to really get things up to temp. If most of your driving is truly just short trips I would not go over 3k intervals no matter what oil you run in it.

Keep all records of oil changes in case you ever have a warranty claim. They will not help you if you can not prove that the correct oil was used at the proper intervals. Please do yourself a favor and double check the viscosity in the owners manual because I do not see why they would have allowed a thinner oil to be used in it. Also only use the OEM oil filters ( not expensive at the dealer and well made). These engines have been reported to have issues with after market filters and a bulletin has been issued by Hyundai/Kia that it can void the warranty if other filters are used.

I know it sounds like I have some strong opinions but since I do have a car with this GDI system on it I have read quite a bit about it. From doing the oil changes on my car I have seen the results of using this or that in it. Of course you can do as you please but I am just here to share the knowledge that I have about the subject.

 

[Debyne]

Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
Unless something has changed, do not EVER use 5W20 in your engine. The 5W20 recommendation is only for the non-turbo engines unless they have changed it for 2013. I really wish they would make that more clear in the manual because it will lead to many engines blowing up from the thin oil being left in there too long with fuel dilution from the GDI. I have the non turbo engine and it does dump a lot of fuel in the oil. You are almost at least, for now, best off using a thicker oil that will still be in range after having a ton of fuel dumped into it. Many on here that have the turbo GDI engine are using 5W40 of some sort and that is probably the best choice till you get some miles on it. My car is at about 10k miles now and there is less fuel in the oil than there used to be. I guess break in does help with the fuel issues in some cars. It sure helped mine. But you do not want an already thin oil to get watered down with fuel and make it go out of grade when you have a turbocharger to lubricate. Just my opinion from the research I have done on this topic. I would suggest Rotella T6 5w40 or Mobil 1 0W40 / 5W40 as a good starting point.
That's crazy about fuel mixing in with the oil...I didn't know that happened. I'm sorta new to this stuff. Do you think xw40 would void any warranties?

Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
Also only use the OEM oil filters ( not expensive at the dealer and well made). These engines have been reported to have issues with after market filters and a bulletin has been issued by Hyundai/Kia that it can void the warranty if other filters are used.
Do you think Hyundai/Kia OEM filters are good quality?

Thanks for your insights on this.

 

[KlooksKleek]

Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
...it will lead to many engines blowing up from the thin oil being left in there too long with fuel dilution from the GDI. I have the non turbo engine and it does dump a lot of fuel in the oil. You are almost at least, for now, best off using a thicker oil that will still be in range after having a ton of fuel dumped into it...I know it sounds like I have some strong opinions but since I do have a car with this GDI system on it I have read quite a bit about it. From doing the oil changes on my car I have seen the results of using this or that in it. Of course you can do as you please but I am just here to share the knowledge that I have about the subject.


I must say how surprised I am with your experience. As for my 2.4 GDI, I have sent my M1 in for analysis at 5.5K miles on the oil---this was the first batch of new oil after the factory fill came out at 3K---and the analysis came back with nothing more than a trace, or whatever term is used for the most miniscule amount detectable.

I now go 7.5 using M1 EP and I never notice any feel or smell of gasoline when doing my own oil changes. And on at least one occasion I made quite a mess and got a lot on me. I definitely would have noticed. I do plenty of short trips, too.

Agreed that the OEM filters are very good. That's all I'll use, and at six bucks it's a non-issue.

 

[71Chevyguy]

The fuel mixing with the oil is because of the GDI Direct injection system. Some have said that after break in it is not as bad and does not reallY affect the oil much if driven once in a while on the highway to heat things up and burn off some of the fuel in the oil. Mine loaded the oil with gas when it was new. If I pulled the dipstick to check the oil I could smell the gas from a distance before I even pulled the dipstick all the way out. It was that bad! Now after 10K you can still smell it if you smell the oil on the dipstick but nowhere near as bad as it was when brand new. So hopefully most cars will follow this trend and lose the fuel problem as the miles increase.

In my car the turbo engine which is the same as your new car they recommend 5W30 or 5W40 so yes 5W40 would be fine as long as it allows it in the owner's manual. Im my manual (2012) it allows 5W40. If mine was turbo it is what I would use. If you get a chance, take another look in your owner's manual and double check to see what viscosity it lists for the turbo motor. I would be really interested to see if they are trying to use 5W20 in them now. I very highly doubt it.

The oil filters seem to be of good quality and are pretty heavy. Most importantly they flow the correct amount of oil for the engine. Many Hyundai / Kia engines will actually have an upper end knock/tap with an aftermarket filter on them. I feel OEM is the way to go because it is correct and in case there ever is an issue they can not say you used the wrong filter and they will not cover your claim. I have not personally heard of any issues when using the OEM filters. They even have a nice plastic cover over the open end to make sure no dirt falls in while in transit till it is ready to be installed which is a nice touch. OEM filters are starting to become a requirement because engines are getting more specific about flow/pressures etc. Some of the one size fits all filters are just not cutting it on some of these new engines. At my local dealer it is $6 for a filter which is on par with most other decent filters in my opinion.

 

[Debyne]

Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
In my car the turbo engine which is the same as your new car they recommend 5W30 or 5W40 so yes 5W40 would be fine as long as it allows it in the owner's manual. Im my manual (2012) it allows 5W40. If mine was turbo it is what I would use. If you get a chance, take another look in your owner's manual and double check to see what viscosity it lists for the turbo motor. I would be really interested to see if they are trying to use 5W20 in them now. I very highly doubt it.
Good to know. When I do look in the owner's manual, it does indeed say you can use 5w20, 5w30 or 10w30 for both the 2.4L or 2.0T GDI engines. There's no mention at all about 5w40. I'm guessing that they're making 5w20 acceptable for purposes of increased MPGs. Regardless, I'm sticking with what's on the oil cap...5w30.

 

[Debyne]

I just ordered a 10 pack of Hyundai/Kia OEM filters for $50 out the door on eBay...not bad. Thanks for your insight.

 

[71Chevyguy]

No problem, glad I could share my research. I find it interesting about the 5W20 for the turbo motor. I will look into that more out of curiosity. Yes 5W30 should be fine and Mobil 1 is a good choice as you mentioned it earlier. It meets many specs for many manufacturers so it is a good overall oil. As someone mentioned earlier the Acura HT-06 is a pretty tough spec and a good one to look for since it is turbo related. The Quaker State Ultimate Durability is also a decent oil for a very good price. It meets GM's Dexos 1 specs which seem to be pretty high up there as well as the Acura HT-06.

 

[71Chevyguy]

Originally Posted By: KlooksKleek
Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
...it will lead to many engines blowing up from the thin oil being left in there too long with fuel dilution from the GDI. I have the non turbo engine and it does dump a lot of fuel in the oil. You are almost at least, for now, best off using a thicker oil that will still be in range after having a ton of fuel dumped into it...I know it sounds like I have some strong opinions but since I do have a car with this GDI system on it I have read quite a bit about it. From doing the oil changes on my car I have seen the results of using this or that in it. Of course you can do as you please but I am just here to share the knowledge that I have about the subject.


I must say how surprised I am with your experience. As for my 2.4 GDI, I have sent my M1 in for analysis at 5.5K miles on the oil---this was the first batch of new oil after the factory fill came out at 3K---and the analysis came back with nothing more than a trace, or whatever term is used for the most miniscule amount detectable.

I now go 7.5 using M1 EP and I never notice any feel or smell of gasoline when doing my own oil changes. And on at least one occasion I made quite a mess and got a lot on me. I definitely would have noticed. I do plenty of short trips, too.

Agreed that the OEM filters are very good. That's all I'll use, and at six bucks it's a non-issue.


I have read a lot about these GDI engine as well as others and with the Hyundai / Kia motors some seem to have issues with the fuel and others not so much. Mine was really bad when new and seems to have calmed down with the miles. I have not done a UOA yet but if draining the oil just about knocks you out I am not sure I really need to double check that. Now that it seems to have calmed down I may send a sample out for UOA just to see how it is doing on the oils I am using. So far it is at about 2,500k on this oil (QS Q-Horsepower 0W20) and it is pitch black. All highway 70-75 MPH with the cruise set, easy driving on flat ground. Never a trip less than 40 miles or so. What kind of fuel economy are you getting with your 2.4 GDI Klooks? My best so far has been 25.5 Highway, never ever any better.

 

[KlooksKleek]

Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
Mine was really bad when new and seems to have calmed down with the miles. I have not done a UOA yet but if draining the oil just about knocks you out I am not sure I really need to double check that. Now that it seems to have calmed down I may send a sample out for UOA just to see how it is doing on the oils I am using. So far it is at about 2,500k on this oil (QS Q-Horsepower 0W20) and it is pitch black. All highway 70-75 MPH with the cruise set, easy driving on flat ground. Never a trip less than 40 miles or so. What kind of fuel economy are you getting with your 2.4 GDI Klooks? My best so far has been 25.5 Highway, never ever any better.


Chevyguy, while in no way questioning the reality of what you experienced I've got to wonder aloud (especially for the benefit of Debyne who has got to be watching this thread at this point with eyes as big as saucers) if perhaps you had a leaking injector or some other defect. I simply cannot imagine this type of situation with oil reeking of fuel could even be remotely normal.

Anyway, glad it has improved for whatever reason. Your hwy mileage seems quite low. The car does exceptionally well at hwy speeds due to its aero profile and tall gearing---naturally, Hyundai plays that up to the max but around town it's substantially lower. If I do minimal or zero hwy cruising my mileage will be in the mid 20s when it is time to fill up, with tires inflated to 38psi. On the hwy, with a reasonably gentle foot (not hypermiling, just normal driving) and level cruising, it is easy to stay above the 35mpg that Hyundai claims.

Please, Chevyguy, the low hwy mpgs and the fuel you are detecting in your oil has got to spell trouble somewhere. Be careful.

 

[toyota62]

This is the only xW-20 engine oil i would run in a Turbo charged engine.
http://www.millionauto.com/TITAN GT1 0W20.pdf

 

[LineArrayNut]

For 2011 and 2012 the manuals for sonatas aren't all THAT clear about the different grades for different motors Re: 2.4NA and 2.0T. I'm not saying that you're not reading it right, but I'd be shocked if they were saying dino 5W-20 was ok. I'm gonna have to stop by the stealership just to look myself, lol! And for 2011 the 5W-40 mention is in a footnote.

These motors are pretty high strung, even the NA is relying on a bit of rich fuel to allow the static compression on 87 octane the bean counters say is ok. The turbo even more so. The GDI allows it, but compounds the fuel in oil at the end of an OCI. I'll run my first analysis on the current (5th one 20K miles total ~4K on sample) to see what the fuel percentage really is but for the first couple of OCI's I'd of bet the title it was over 1%. dnewton3 wants to run my oil again in a beater, lol!

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...354#Post2794354

That above NA mpg seems REALLY low. Even my half boy racer , half grandma style in a turbo my combined low over a full gas tank was 26 mpg. My high is 32. Average is 30.

Filters.The hyundai filter is as good as a P1. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2815585&page=1

These engines shear oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2792446&page=1

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/135244-oil-analysis-reports-only.html

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2732290&page=3

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2463535&page=1

 

[salv]

use any 5w30 full synthetic with an oem filter every 3750 miles. one thing to keep in mind, changing your own oil does not void your warranty, but it will disqualify you for the hyundai assurance program that guarantees trade in value betwwen 24 and 48 months. hyundai assurance requires that all maintenance be done at a hyundai certified facility at hyundai's specified intervals.

 

[Debyne]

Originally Posted By: salv
use any 5w30 full synthetic with an oem filter every 3750 miles. one thing to keep in mind, changing your own oil does not void your warranty, but it will disqualify you for the hyundai assurance program that guarantees trade in value betwwen 24 and 48 months. hyundai assurance requires that all maintenance be done at a hyundai certified facility at hyundai's specified intervals.
That's lame. I'm actually not going to change my own oil...I'm having my mechanic do it with me bringing in my own oil and filter.

 

[Debyne]

Originally Posted By: bourne
I would stick with the 5w30 weight. Since your engine is has a turbo, using an oil that meets Acura's HT-06 spec would be an excellent idea. Since you are short tripping a lot, I would prefer a 5w30 syn oil which is on the thinner side. Hyundai's factory fill is Quaker State and Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 also meets Acura HT-06 spec. It also can be found at Walmart for $20.97 for a 5 qt jug. That would be my first choice, followed by PP 5w30, Synpower 5w30 and then M1 5w30.
Doesn't M1 also meet Acura's HTO-06 spec? I've read in a couple places that it does.

 

[Debyne]

Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
No problem, glad I could share my research. I find it interesting about the 5W20 for the turbo motor. I will look into that more out of curiosity. Yes 5W30 should be fine and Mobil 1 is a good choice as you mentioned it earlier. It meets many specs for many manufacturers so it is a good overall oil. As someone mentioned earlier the Acura HT-06 is a pretty tough spec and a good one to look for since it is turbo related. The Quaker State Ultimate Durability is also a decent oil for a very good price. It meets GM's Dexos 1 specs which seem to be pretty high up there as well as the Acura HT-06.
Ok Chevyguy, to make sure you're not going crazy, I went back into my car manual again to triple check. Your hunch about 5w20 is correct...the manual actually contradicts itself. On the back of the manual it lists various specs including oil viscosity...5w20 is included with 5w30 and 10w30 but with no indication of the 2.4 or 2.0T. If you look inside the manual, 5w20 is nowhere to be seen...just 5w30 and 10w30. They need to fix that inconsistency, and all of this further solidifies my need to stick with 5w30. Thanks for your skepticism because that actually saved me.

 

[Eddie]

5w30 Mobil1 or Pennzoil Platinum are excellent choices for your turbo engine. Specifically both met the Honda/Acura HT-06 turbo spec. I run PP5w30 in my Mazda DI turbo and get excellent results using WIX or OEM filters and 6K oil changes. Ed

 

[accent2012]

It has been discussed a lot on Hyundai forums.

The general answer is stick with 5w30 or 5w40 if you plan on getting the most out of the turbo (i.e. stop and go traffic, fast acceleration, etc.)

5w20 is perfectly fine for the engine, however, it is only ok under normal/light use (i.e. mild acceleration, highway traffic, etc.)

 

[Hallmark]

Originally Posted By: Debyne
I just ordered a 10 pack of Hyundai/Kia OEM filters for $50 out the door on eBay...not bad. Thanks for your insight.


When your OEM filters arrive, inspect a filter to observe some of the many reasons that folks recommend them. Note the shrink-wrap packaging to ID the filter as a genuine OEM product (there are counterfeits in the marketplace) and prevent contamination. Observe the paint quality (e.g. no overspray on internals), weight of filter (can thickness, no plastic internals, etc.), cleanliness of threads, end plate, internals (e.g. no fabrication/assembly debris, etc.). Then do some research here to note cut-open filter comparisons where the OEM filter's components, assembly, and service durability excel. Then most importantly, be assured that the filter is engineered to meet the manufacturer's specs for your engine.

BTW, the OEM filters are manufactured by Mobis, a Hyundai corporate affilite within the huge Hyundai/Kia conglomerate...they make great automotive parts. And no, I'm not a Hyundai employee or investor. I just prefer quality products in my rides.