2019 Golf R Oil Analysis

[dbias]

Both oils have HTHS of 3.5 minimum.
There is very good evidence that Low-SAPS oils limit CBU.
On track however, I would use something with Porsche A40.

I agree on the A40. A40 > 502 IMO and thats why I've used a lot of Ravenol RUP 5w-40. HTHS 3.9, SAPs 0.8 and NOACK 6.0.
Catch it on sale at Blauparts and I think its worth it, but thats just me.
In a pinch I've used castrol 0w-40 and not think anything of it.

 

[edyvw]

I agree on the A40. A40 > 502 IMO and thats why I've used a lot of Ravenol RUP 5w-40. HTHS 3.9, SAPs 0.8 and NOACK 6.0.
Catch it on sale at Blauparts and I think its worth it, but thats just me.
In a pinch I've used castrol 0w-40 and not think anything of it.

Porsche A40 is much more stringent than VW502.00.
I am not sure Ravenol is worth it that money. Motul X-Clean Gen2 has same HTHS.

 

[Jetronic]

CBU?

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

CBU?

carbon build-up

 

[Jetronic]

oh yes of course, thanks

 

[racin4ds]

Remember, manufacturers are only concerned with fleet economy and CAFE/EPA numbers. You bought an "R" and obviously use it for track use as intended. I wouldn't be putting any of these mediocre light weight oils in it. As stated, you need something robust with a lot of anti-wear additive (ZDDP or Moly). I would care less if you hurt the CAT in 50k miles. It can be replaced much cheaper than the engine.

 

[Jetronic]

The cat isn't going to die in 50k miles either... Cat failures, even when the ZDDP levels were above 1000ppm were always low to non-existant in vehicles without running issues and normal oil consumption. My experience as a tech anyway.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

Only on bitog is 504 oil considered "mediocre light weight oil."

 

[edyvw]

Remember, manufacturers are only concerned with fleet economy and CAFE/EPA numbers. You bought an "R" and obviously use it for track use as intended. I wouldn't be putting any of these mediocre light weight oils in it. As stated, you need something robust with a lot of anti-wear additive (ZDDP or Moly). I would care less if you hurt the CAT in 50k miles. It can be replaced much cheaper than the engine.

Hmmm, Cat in R model will be fine using oils with ZDDP levels up to 1,300ppm. VW504.00/507.00 are most stringent approval in W30 category when it comes to wear, and for example HTHS of Motul X-Clean+ 5W30 is 3.6, same as Mobil1 0W40FS.
That being said, I would on track use something that is W40. I know bunch of people I see on track with GTI's or R's are using Motul X-Clean or X-Cess 5W40.

 

[scrapin240]

In addition, what should I be using for a NorthEast winter since the molygen is no good, and are there any Liqui Moly oils that are good for track?winter?

Looks like the Motul X-Clean could be a good winter choice

 

[edyvw]

In addition, what should I be using for a NorthEast winter since the molygen is no good, and are there any Liqui Moly oils that are good for track?winter?

Looks like the Motul X-Clean could be a good winter choice

Mobil1 ESP 5W30, Motul X-Clean+ 5W30.
That is for winter.
For track, I would go something W40. Non approved for that engine, something like Motul 5W40 Sport, Motul 5W40 300V,

 

[scrapin240]

just an update. I switched the Molygen 5W-30 as recommended (453 miles). I put in the VW 504 5W-30 Top Tech 4200 for the winter.

Here's the analysis from the Molygen. Seemed to have some a lot more Molybdenum than the others, any other observations that standout in the non-approved oil?

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

just an update. I switched the Molygen 5W-30 as recommended (453 miles). I put in the VW 504 5W-30 Top Tech 4200 for the winter.

Here's the analysis from the Molygen. Seemed to have some a lot more Molybdenum than the others, any other observations that standout in the non-approved oil?

View attachment 40208

You're wasting your money on UOA's because they can't differentiate between break-in wear and vs other types wear. Outside of racing it really makes zero sense to do them on an engine with less than 25k or even 50k miles. Switching from brand to brand on every oil change doesn't help either and will lead you down the road of inaccurate conclusions.

 

[wemay]

I would give it at least 3k miles between UOA (after 20K miles). You'll get very little useful information below that, IMO.

 

[TiGeo]

The 5W30 variant of Molygen is not what you should be running IMHO - you should be running the 5W40 which would be equivalent to a VW502 00 oil which is fine to use in your car. The 5W30 is stated for use in American/Asian cars and isn't an equivalent for a VW504 00 5W30. Yes, boron/moly spike and if you had it run for tungsten you'd see that too. When I ran the 5W40 I was not seeing that much moly, only about 45ppm and 5 ppm boron....interesting that they differ but again, different intended vehicles.

 

[edyvw]

1. You are wasting money on such short OCI.
2. As others pointed, that is not oil to use. That KV100 is too low for oil required for that engine.

 

[scrapin240]

A kit is like $10+ $5 shipping. So it's not a big deal getting the Analysis.

In case it wasn't clear, I did put in Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30 (VW 504)

 

[TiGeo]

A kit is like $10+ $5 shipping. So it's not a big deal getting the Analysis.

In case it wasn't clear, I did put in Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30 (VW 504)

Ah ok, so you ran the Molygen and now are back into the TopTech 504 5W30 - makes sense now. You can certainly push those OCIs much further, at least 5K or it's really somewhat of a waste and not gaining you a thing. The TBN on that TopTech is low to start so need to check that out at 5K (should be fine).

 

[scrapin240]

Ah ok, so you ran the Molygen and now are back into the TopTech 504 5W30 - makes sense now. You can certainly push those OCIs much further, at least 5K or it's really somewhat of a waste and not gaining you a thing. The TBN on that TopTech is low to start so need to check that out at 5K (should be fine).

Yeah, I just did it to get rid of the Molygen. No big deal on getting another analysis, I just like data. Oil change is peanuts in comparison to everything else that's on this car, I just want it to last as long as it can and since everyone was against the Molygen, I wanted to get rid of it.

Even though it's my daily driver, I don't put a ton of miles on it. I have 4K miles since April, and probably around this April I'll be on the Motul 300V ready for track season.

 

[TiGeo]

Yeah, I just did it to get rid of the Molygen. No big deal on getting another analysis, I just like data. Oil change is peanuts in comparison to everything else that's on this car, I just want it to last as long as it can and since everyone was against the Molygen, I wanted to get rid of it.

Even though it's my daily driver, I don't put a ton of miles on it. I have 4K miles since April, and probably around this April I'll be on the Motul 300V ready for track season.

Understood - data is lyfe