2017 mazda cx-5 m1 0w30 afe 4500miles

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted by Artem
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by spasm3
7300 miles on engine, 4500 on oil. Performed by Oil Analyzers.

..


I ran this sample this early in case of fuel dilution. I'm glad i did. This is my wife's vehicle, she drives 8 miles to work and 8 miles back 5 days a week, some longer trips on the weekend. This sample was taken at about 38f ambient after a 10mile drive.

I think this illustrates the effects of short trips with a DI engine, its not even really cold here yet.

It really knocked the viscosity of the 0w30 down to 8.0cst. The wear metals are low considering it only has 7300 miles. I'm thinking about mobil 0w-40 or maybe rotella 5w 40. I'll have to check the noack of those 2.

Other than oil choice and longer drives, Thoughts?


GREAT Report BTW,

I see and understand your concern but dont be concerned.

1. Oil samples are supposed to be taken when the oil is at full operating temperature, A 10 mile drive on a 40 degree day doesnt come close to full operating temperature and why so much fuel. Yes, it gives you an idea how much fuel is in your oil on short trips you run your car but so what? Everyone elses (D/I) automobile is the same, you just dont know it because you dont have cold oil UOAs in here.

2. There are 7 model years of Skyactive engines on the road, highest compression mass produced engine in the world and it has been rock solid.
Yet in your case, you are building your own reasons to completely ignore the oil recommendations of the manufacturer, who designed (and patented the design) to do your own oil weight because you know better? I dont think so.
Your already running a 0/30 instead of a 0/20 or 5/20. That to me is fine, I dont use 20 in any of my vehicles and currently run 5/30 in my Mazda and Durango but now you are thinking about a 40?

3. Dont take my comments personal, actually I am trying to reassure you. You didnt go out and buy a rock solid Mazda because of all the bad reviews of the engines blowing up right? Of course not, because their aren't any.
Yet, I feel you are looking to blow up your own because you think you are smarter then the people who built the engine ... )



The people who built the engine are in Japan and have different fuel quality and octane and even the engines have higher compression ratios as a result of the higher compression ratio they have (14:1 vs the US spec 13:1)

Sure Mazda says you can use regular 87 octane but I certainly don't in my 2014 Mazda 3. I use 93 octane and have ZERO fuel dilution in my samples because the fuel burns better once the ECU adjusts timing. This is how the engine was designed and they had to DETUNE it for US spec. I'm not too fond of this but it is what it is.

The wife does short trips taking the kid to school and back 2x each and every day. I have no fuel dilution issues with my 2.0L Skyactiv.



Do you have a uoa to share with us?
Keep in mind you can not compare if the criteria for oil at full operating temperature is not adhered to.
We have a skyactiv engine and with 75000 miles now the car still runs like new on regular gas.
It's irrelevant where the car was built.
Mazda's patented engine design was to produce the world's highest compression mass-produced engine in the world that runs on regular gas.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by alarmguy



3. Dont take my comments personal, actually I am trying to reassure you. You didnt go out and buy a rock solid Mazda because of all the bad reviews of the engines blowing up right? Of course not, because their aren't any.
Yet, I feel you are looking to blow up your own because you think you are smarter then the people who built the engine ... )


No , i don't take you comments personal at all. Thank you for responding. There is some validity in what you say. The metal numbers bear that out.

I do however realize the circumstances may be different than designed. A lot of short trips , I want my 30wt oil to be a 30wt. I also realize the constraints of the manufacturer in regards to cafe.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by PimTac
" I hate to rev engines that are not warm though."



I just noticed that statement.

There is a blue light that tells you the engine is cold. While it's illuminated I take it easy as well. It usually goes off within a short period. Yours should be off early on in that 8 mile commute. Once it's off I drive normally. These engines warm up quickly.


I will have to look for that, thanks! I had no idea there was such a thing on this car( again i rarely drive it, but i'm sure she does not know about it either).

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by Audios
Or swap cars a week or so at a time and give hers a decent commute.



This may be the best solution, perhaps i drive it once a week on a longer commute, at least in cooler weather.

 

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by PimTac
" I hate to rev engines that are not warm though."



I just noticed that statement.

There is a blue light that tells you the engine is cold. While it's illuminated I take it easy as well. It usually goes off within a short period. Yours should be off early on in that 8 mile commute. Once it's off I drive normally. These engines warm up quickly.


The blue light is not an indication of oil temperature



Yep, its a indication of cooling system temp from what i was told by Mazda

 

[dave1251]

No reason to shorten your OCI. The UOA is fine no excess wear will be caused with this OCI.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by PimTac
" I hate to rev engines that are not warm though."



I just noticed that statement.

There is a blue light that tells you the engine is cold. While it's illuminated I take it easy as well. It usually goes off within a short period. Yours should be off early on in that 8 mile commute. Once it's off I drive normally. These engines warm up quickly.


The blue light is not an indication of oil temperature



Yep, its a indication of cooling system temp from what i was told by Mazda




I wonder what the time lag is between coolant temperature and oil temperature?

 

[alarmguy]

Coolant temp and oil temp lag time is impossible to tell except to say oil temps run vastly different from coolant temps, coolant is thermostat controlled, oil is not, all vehicles will be different but I would think safe to say, in cold weather, in general it would take a good 20+ minutes of run time after coolant gets to full temperature for oil to come up to full engine temperature. I think that is a conservative statement.

Noticed I used the words minutes, part of the impossible equation as no general statement can make up for if your on the highway, city traffic ect.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by PimTac
" I hate to rev engines that are not warm though."



I just noticed that statement.

There is a blue light that tells you the engine is cold. While it's illuminated I take it easy as well. It usually goes off within a short period. Yours should be off early on in that 8 mile commute. Once it's off I drive normally. These engines warm up quickly.


The blue light is not an indication of oil temperature



The blue dummy light isn't an indicator of a warmed up engine either. I have a scan gauge and the light goes off at only 126F coolant temp. Actual operating coolant temps are 180F cruising. It will reach 200F before the radiator fans decide to engage.

Obviously if the blue temp gauge goes off at only 126F engine coolant temp, you know the actual OIL TEMP isn't anywhere near that by a long shot. Lol. The engine is not warmed up yet.

When I first bought my Mazda 3, I played around with the blue coolant light.

Started the car to warm up a bit in 36F weather in North Carolina. Dummy light went off. As an experiment, I touched various parts of the engine and oil pan... COLD like the inside of a fridge.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by Artem
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by PimTac
" I hate to rev engines that are not warm though."



I just noticed that statement.

There is a blue light that tells you the engine is cold. While it's illuminated I take it easy as well. It usually goes off within a short period. Yours should be off early on in that 8 mile commute. Once it's off I drive normally. These engines warm up quickly.


The blue light is not an indication of oil temperature



The blue dummy light isn't an indicator of a warmed up engine either. I have a scan gauge and the light goes off at only 126F coolant temp. Actual operating coolant temps are 180F cruising. It will reach 200F before the radiator fans decide to engage.

Obviously if the blue temp gauge goes off at only 126F engine coolant temp, you know the actual OIL TEMP isn't anywhere near that by a long shot. Lol. The engine is not warmed up yet.

When I first bought my Mazda 3, I played around with the blue coolant light.

Started the car to warm up a bit in 36F weather in North Carolina. Dummy light went off. As an experiment, I touched various parts of the engine and oil pan... COLD like the inside of a fridge.




Thanks for that. My guess is that Mazda put the light in as a signal to the driver that they could drive normally. It is not optimal per your observations but doable.

For most people, they just get in and hammer the throttle no matter the temperature. It's their car, not the way I would treat mine though.

I'm sure studies have been done on commute times and length of trips. Some people can drive ten miles in ten minutes. Others take an hour. The local traffic conditions play a big part.

 

[PeterPolyol]

Just started one of my cars up the other day, around the freezing mark outside. Started goosing the throttle a bit, got stuck on the floormat and redlined right to 8K literally seconds after firing up.
Whoops. Cringeworthy but inconsequential. Don't lose sleep over it

 

[JAG]

I had a 2009 BMW 135i with a factory oil temp. readout. Oil temperature took about 15 minutes of driving to stabilize when going around 50-55 mph on a country road.

 

[kaesees]

Originally Posted by Artem

The people who built the engine are in Japan and have different fuel quality and octane and even the engines have higher compression ratios as a result of the higher compression ratio they have (14:1 vs the US spec 13:1)




Regular gas in Japan is 90 RON. Regular gas in most of the US, 87 AKI, is generally 91-92 RON. Or does Mazda mandate premium gas (in Japan, 100 RON) only in the JDM SkyAktiv engine?