No, a thicker oil has higher HT/HS and greater film thickness which prevents wear. This matters under high load and high temperatures. You're tracking the car, correct?You are right, of course within the limits of my ability. I now think that a thicker oil does no damage to this vehicle, but it also brings nothing but more fuel consumption and less power. Hence my consideration of returning to W30 or W20.
It is true. Low-SAPS oils do leave less IVD deposits.Is it really true that engine oils that have the VW 504 00 / 507 00 specification cause fewer deposits than a full saps, for example mobile 1 fs 0W40? Or have these midsaps oils only been developed for vehicles with particulate filters and full saps should always be preferred even with direct injection engines if there is no filter? I am still thinking between mobil 1 fs and mobil 1 esp 5W30.
Any Porsche A40 would fit track requirements. Racing is bit different and depends on the vehicle. I personally think that if the car is driven on the street, street oils are preferred (I should not pontificate too much as I have Motul 300V in my sump now ).I almost never worry about base stock composition, viscosity spread, typical PDS values nor VOA/UOA. If I was tracking or racing a vehicle I’d use an oil from a reputable blender or manufacturer that is intended for that application and recommended by them. But maybe that’s just me.
Basically, it depends on how much in the way of oil vapour makes its way into the intake, from the crankcase, and gets exposed to the back of the valves which, unlike with a port injected engine, aren't washed by the fuel spray of the injector.Mh, how is it now? The question is why midsaps oils should cause fewer deposits? Do polymers also play a role?
I'd personally use the 0W-40, and do.I know that the mobil 1 fs 0W40 passes even in the toughest racetrack test and also over 24h. I just wonder if the esp 5W30 would be the better choice in my case, since I only drive 5000 kilometres in the season anyway. What would you tend to do?