2014 Odyssey Sludge/Varnish

Ok so I took the valve out today. I hadn’t bought a replacement yet, I have a dealer in MD that ships fast and sells at wholesale prices.

It was dirty, but it did rattle. It was hard to get out. It’s in a terrible spot, upfront but blocked. Here’s what it looked like when I pulled it:
9C7B74AD-1AAF-4202-A80A-EAD9E10C799A.jpeg
431EFBA9-21A8-4AE1-B37F-4346D1A7DB4A.jpeg

And how it rattled:


I cleaned it with some carb cleaner and it dumped some dirt out, some of what looked like particles of sludge or varnish. The o-ring expanded when I cleaned the thing, thought it would be chemically resistant, guess not. I washed it with water and it seemed to shrink back somewhat.

D745852F-EF48-4732-8619-AB5B59F75B47.jpeg

I can’t say it rattles much different, but maybe?



The hole was slightly dirty too.
1F083659-8127-4665-8A3F-03567F61F3D3.jpeg


So I just don’t know. Not fully convinced that the PCV was clogged or bad. Maybe just contributing because of reduced flow?
 
nothing scientific but fyi, I changed the oil brand for couple of OCIs in one of our older cars (not going to mention the oil brand but it was a cheaper oil that met the spec) and i started to see residue and little sludge here and there (oil cap, etc.) even when I pulled out the dipstick, it sometimes had a little sludge on one edge of dipstick which I had never seen before ... so I went back to what I used to use which was M1 EP. I couldn't believe it maybe just a coincidence but I think it was the new oil. Car didn't like it or it had inferior or insufficient amounts of detergents ...

especially older cars still need more love and care with a better oil. I use a lot of M1 EP 10W-30 and recently been using some M1 Euro FS 0W-40 (jury is still out on this one) I'm sure there are other good oils but M1 EP is one superior oil.
 
nothing scientific but fyi, I changed the oil brand for couple of OCIs in one of our older cars (not going to mention the oil brand but it was a cheaper oil that met the spec) and i started to see residue and little sludge here and there (oil cap, etc.) even when I pulled out the dipstick, it sometimes had a little sludge on one edge of dipstick which I had never seen before ... so I went back to what I used to use which was M1 EP. I couldn't believe it maybe just a coincidence but I think it was the new oil. Car didn't like it or it had inferior or insufficient amounts of detergents ...

especially older cars still need more love and care with a better oil. I use a lot of M1 EP 10W-30 and recently been using some M1 Euro FS 0W-40 (jury is still out on this one) I'm sure there are other good oils but M1 EP is one superior oil.
Last two OCIs were Rotella Gas Truck. Before that has been valvoline, M1EP, and others.

I don’t run questionable oil, and this van doesn’t live a hard life other than short trips. But plenty of long drives interspersed.

Not convinced there’s anything wrong. Just being cautious - wasn’t expecting to see the golden varnish I did.
 
Ok so I took the valve out today. I hadn’t bought a replacement yet, I have a dealer in MD that ships fast and sells at wholesale prices.

It was dirty, but it did rattle. It was hard to get out. It’s in a terrible spot, upfront but blocked. Here’s what it looked like when I pulled it:
View attachment 80027View attachment 80028
And how it rattled:


I cleaned it with some carb cleaner and it dumped some dirt out, some of what looked like particles of sludge or varnish. The o-ring expanded when I cleaned the thing, thought it would be chemically resistant, guess not. I washed it with water and it seemed to shrink back somewhat.

View attachment 80029
I can’t say it rattles much different, but maybe?



The hole was slightly dirty too.
View attachment 80030

So I just don’t know. Not fully convinced that the PCV was clogged or bad. Maybe just contributing because of reduced flow?

It is not as bad as some I have seen, I did one with less miles than yours that would not come out, It broke and needed an easy out to twist it out. I see positive reviews on the engine cleaning product from High Performance Lubricants (I have not tried it yet but am going to on one particular engine in the spring), I would be tempted to give it a go in this engine.
 
Ok so I took the valve out today. I hadn’t bought a replacement yet, I have a dealer in MD that ships fast and sells at wholesale prices.

It was dirty, but it did rattle. It was hard to get out. It’s in a terrible spot, upfront but blocked. Here’s what it looked like when I pulled it:
View attachment 80027View attachment 80028
And how it rattled:


I cleaned it with some carb cleaner and it dumped some dirt out, some of what looked like particles of sludge or varnish. The o-ring expanded when I cleaned the thing, thought it would be chemically resistant, guess not. I washed it with water and it seemed to shrink back somewhat.

View attachment 80029
I can’t say it rattles much different, but maybe?



The hole was slightly dirty too.
View attachment 80030

So I just don’t know. Not fully convinced that the PCV was clogged or bad. Maybe just contributing because of reduced flow?

We just bought a 2015 odyssey 2 months ago.
Same varnish and gunk as yours. 90k miles.
I have done 2 oil flushes with liquimoly proline engine flush.
I am doing a short OCI with lubegard and some 5w-20 oil.
2 tanks of SL-1.
So far after the 2 flushes the varnish has reduced noticeably and throttle response has improved.
I also muzzled the VCM during the first 2 weeks.
I think the piston rings were gummed up a lot.

Also, the PCV came out in 7 pieces.
New PCV improved engine performance also.
I think the VCM gums these v6's up.
Every week on the odyssey forums some new member comes on looking for help because they need new piston rings.
 
We just bought a 2015 odyssey 2 months ago.
Same varnish and gunk as yours. 90k miles.
I have done 2 oil flushes with liquimoly proline engine flush.
I am doing a short OCI with lubegard and some 5w-20 oil.
2 tanks of SL-1.
So far after the 2 flushes the varnish has reduced noticeably and throttle response has improved.
I also muzzled the VCM during the first 2 weeks.
I think the piston rings were gummed up a lot.

Also, the PCV came out in 7 pieces.
New PCV improved engine performance also.
I think the VCM gums these v6's up.
Every week on the odyssey forums some new member comes on looking for help because they need new piston rings.
One most definitely needs to disable VCM on those v6's. Once we did that on our 2012 no more problems. It has been running 0w20 Pennzoil Platinum with FRAM ultra oil filter ever since we got the van.
 
It is not as bad as some I have seen, I did one with less miles than yours that would not come out, It broke and needed an easy out to twist it out. I see positive reviews on the engine cleaning product from High Performance Lubricants (I have not tried it yet but am going to on one particular engine in the spring), I would be tempted to give it a go in this engine.
Good call. Worth a shot as a mid-life service.
 
The 2005 and 2006 Odyssey models with VCM (Touring and EX-L) used the VCM 1 system which shut down the rear bank and went into "ECO" mode. these engines were fraught with issues usually resulting from extended oil change intervals over 3K or about 5K for highway/mixed use, the OLM and owners manual OCI was way too optimistic at circa 7500.
That OCI is almost a guarantee for sludge, heavy varnish, spool valve failure, the ones I have done have been fine even with VCM enabled on a 3K OCI. Even so they will commonly blow the $700 rear (actually the right) engine mount out at some point due to the 6-3 VCM configuration, disabling the VCM cures this issue as well as allowing a 5k OCI without issue.

The VCM 1 engines used a standard tension piston ring and did not have (or at least nowhere near as many) the ring issues associated with low tension rings found in the VCM II engines. VCM II uses a 6-4-3 with dual spool valves (one per bank vs rear only on VCM 1) this did help reduce vibration and blown mounts but the low tension rings exposed another issue that is the oil pumping into the cylinders of the ones shut down.
With both valves closed the pistons would allow more oil to pass into the combustion chamber than the standard tension rings, the end result was when the cylinders reactivated the excess oil would either fire if it was not too much oil and eventually blow the cats out and/or foul the spark plugs and misfire along with excess oil consumption. there were other issues with later models with the cylinder head also and PCV issues are common to both due to the valves extremely small diameter but this post is long winded enough so I will end it here.
Thanks Trav. I also own two 2006 Odysseys and two 2007 Odysseys. All are EX-L models with the VCM enabled.
Your advice is very accurate and very much appreciated. If there is any new or revised advice that you have on these engines, please reply to this post. Thanks.
 
Picked up a 2023 Odyssey a month ago. Does anybody know anything about these newer engines with VCM? It also has the newer 10 speed transmission.
 
The 2005 and 2006 Odyssey models with VCM (Touring and EX-L) used the VCM 1 system which shut down the rear bank and went into "ECO" mode. these engines were fraught with issues usually resulting from extended oil change intervals over 3K or about 5K for highway/mixed use, the OLM and owners manual OCI was way too optimistic at circa 7500.
That OCI is almost a guarantee for sludge, heavy varnish, spool valve failure, the ones I have done have been fine even with VCM enabled on a 3K OCI. Even so they will commonly blow the $700 rear (actually the right) engine mount out at some point due to the 6-3 VCM configuration, disabling the VCM cures this issue as well as allowing a 5k OCI without issue.

The VCM 1 engines used a standard tension piston ring and did not have (or at least nowhere near as many) the ring issues associated with low tension rings found in the VCM II engines. VCM II uses a 6-4-3 with dual spool valves (one per bank vs rear only on VCM 1) this did help reduce vibration and blown mounts but the low tension rings exposed another issue that is the oil pumping into the cylinders of the ones shut down.
With both valves closed the pistons would allow more oil to pass into the combustion chamber than the standard tension rings, the end result was when the cylinders reactivated the excess oil would either fire if it was not too much oil and eventually blow the cats out and/or foul the spark plugs and misfire along with excess oil consumption. there were other issues with later models with the cylinder head also and PCV issues are common to both due to the valves extremely small diameter but this post is long winded enough so I will end it here.
@Trav: Thanks Trav for all your insight. You mentioned: "These engines were fraught with issues usually resulting from extended oil change intervals over 3K or about 5K for highway/mixed use".

I'm currently doing 4k mile / 6 month OCI with a 5W-30 full synthetic with lower Noack oil (ex I was thinking about extending to 5k mile / 6 month OCI, but just wanted your advice whether 5k is too long an OCI in these 2005 to 2007 Honda J35 VCM enabled engines. I was not fully understanding your statement above about whether 5k is too long an OCI on these engines.
 
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