2014 F150 5.0 Motorcraft Full Syn 5w20 UOA

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
I do see the 5300 miles on the oil. But I didn't catch the total number of miles on your PU.

He stated this at the beginning of his thread " ... My truck is about to clock 40k miles."

 

[GaryPoe]

I have nothing against using conventional, ive used it in my lawn mowers and.... well thats about it. I have used PP once in my 98 expedition "trade in" and was plain jane yellow bottle dino. I still have a bottle and as matter of fact its what ive been using for lawnmower oil

The main factor about me using synthetics are the pour points. Here in Iowa when temperatures drop to -20f with wind chills in the -30f to -40f, I like the reassuring feeling that im not going to shell my engine when i start it up. That and from every single article ive ever read online and in automotive magazines have "proven" that conventional motor oils cant hold a candle to anything synthetics can do. Sure you cant beleive anything on the internet. Or car and driver magazine. Or sr. tech billy bob at the dealership. If only there was a majic oil that does everything better than the leading competition.

 

[kschachn]

Of course pour point doesn't accurately indicate the cold weather starting performance of an oil, that's what the "W" rating is for. Pour point along with flash point are two particularly useless indicators of performance.

Wind chill is meaningless to an engine, and at -20F ambient the starting performance of a 5W-XX oil will be entirely similar to a 0W-XX. There are many conventional 5W-XX oils that would perform similar to a synthetic in terms of cold starts at that temperature.

 

[GaryPoe]

Well i suppose my ignorance of the subject shows. Pour point is worthless. Flash point is worthless. 0w vs 5w is meaningless. I suppose shear strength and being a liquid is rather pointless as well. Additive pack blah, who needs it. Im catching on now. I suppose i will fill my block with bacon grease as i heard the film strength out performes 10w30.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted by GaryPoe
I have nothing against using conventional, ive used it in my lawn mowers and.... well thats about it. I have used PP once in my 98 expedition "trade in" and was plain jane yellow bottle dino. I still have a bottle and as matter of fact its what ive been using for lawnmower oil

The main factor about me using synthetics are the pour points. Here in Iowa when temperatures drop to -20f with wind chills in the -30f to -40f, I like the reassuring feeling that im not going to shell my engine when i start it up. That and from every single article ive ever read online and in automotive magazines have "proven" that conventional motor oils cant hold a candle to anything synthetics can do. Sure you cant beleive anything on the internet. Or car and driver magazine. Or sr. tech billy bob at the dealership. If only there was a majic oil that does everything better than the leading competition.

Generally conventional oil (especially thinner grades) are good down to -20F. The windchill factor has no effect; so don't use that as justification.

What you've read about syns is often true; syns do have some advantages when it gets cold out. But that typically isn't until temps lower than -20F. And honestly, your routine temps there in Council Bluffs are not really any colder than here in IN. Your average low in CB is +14F; ours is +18F. Sure, you do get below zero upon occasion, but don't exaggerate the nature of the "cold". You rarely get down to -20F. Your record low was -32F. Ours here around my area is -35F. But those are RARE temps for you and me. You routinely will see 0F; rarely would you see -20F. Data don't lie.
https://weather.com/weather/monthly/l/USIA0192:1:US

I use conventional 5w-20 in my 4.6L mod motors; I get excellent wear rates. I see the same darn temps as you do, within a few degrees on average. I've run both syns and dino oils in many UOA tests and the wear rates were not affected by the use of syns, even out to 10k miles (my normal OFCI).

The reality is that your warm up cycles are causing the elevated Fe wear. That won't kill your engine, but using syns isn't going to save it either.

 

[GaryPoe]

I had 2 nice paragraphs typed when my phone decided to not work now im starting over so i will make it short and sweet...
I have changed my warm up procedure to what you guys have recommended. Under a minute im driving... I also wanted to say a week before i changed my Motorcraft oil I installed a JLT oil catch can. When I changed the oil to PPPP I cleaned the can and it was already 1/4 full of crap that reaked of gas and oil. Today is 2 weeks and 1 day after changing to PPPP and 1 weekish since changing my warm up habbit. I checked oil level which is perfect, and checked the oil catch canister which had just a bit maybe 1/16 if that. Uge difference! 3 weeks in on this ordeal and i can already see a difference in either oil or habit. I kinda want to just drive aroud and hit 5k asap to get a new oil analysis. Thanks guys. As for conventional vs synthetic I dont have a say in science and as far as im concerned it is fact. I dont care that some thinner conventionals can flow as wel as synthetic, its a fact that synthetics flow better than conventional. And the weather channel is wrong by up to 10 degrees most days. [censored] yesterday was 100% rain in didnt even mist. Ive seen -25 for days on my dash board and in my home controls, I can look outside and predict more than the weather channel. Have a good weekend!

 

[GaryPoe]

Oh yeah, I plan not to put E85 in my tank ever again, I will stick with 87 regular with 10% Btw, like i said i havent ran e85 since october lr november last year, i had a bad episode where my truck didnt want to run one very cold day due to e85.