2014 Dodge Charger SXT - 3.6 Pentastar

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Good morning, everyone!

My fiance and I just bought a brand new Rallye edition SXT Charger on Saturday. This is the first new car I've ever had, and I want to make sure that it lasts for 10 years or more without major issues. I've been loving it so far: the 300 horsepower and 30 MPG make it a pleasure to rip around and cruise in.

The car only had 110 miles when we picked it up, so we drove it on the highways and in town for the first 300 miles and made sure to vary the engine RPMs like the owner's manual said to do for break-in. We then drove it up to Moscow, ID from Caldwell/Boise, and it's sitting at right about 850 on the clock.

Obviously, I have a lot of questions, so I'll give you as much info as I can!

The owner's manual recommends using 5W-20 oils meeting the ChryCo spec to fulfill the warranty requirements. What oils meet those specs? Do any 0W-20 oils meet the specs? What do I need to do on my end to make sure I maintain the warranty when I'm doing all the work at home? What records do I need to keep? What are the oil filter options available for my Charger? I run Pennzoil 5W-30 oils in my old Jeep 4.0; is it okay to top off with that grade between changes? Owner's manual says it's "OKAY" if there isn't 5W-20 available, but will there be any long-term effects if used regularly? Should I change the oil early for the first OCI after break-in, or let it run its course until the computer says it's time to change? How many hours/miles will the engine need before it's fully broken-in?

I'm currently living in northern Idaho, between Coeur d'Alene and Lewiston. I mostly travel in the Pacific Northwest, but will be moving to Ohio this summer after graduation.

My driving style is mostly casual, but I do drive spiritedly at times. I take it easy on the car when I'm not ripping around town or on the highways. I'll either set the cruise or manually shift through the eight gears in town.

Most of the travel is short trips in town. Moscow is very small, with very few opportunities to cruise at higher speeds. I do take longer highway trips once in a while. I'll be driving to Missoula and back at the end of the month. After I move to Ohio, driving will be mostly commuting, with about 20-30% city and the rest highway.

I always let engines warm up to some degree for driving, and take it easy until the temps are up to normal operating range. Since the Charger has an oil temp gauge, I always try to make sure it has reached the 100° mark before driving.

Sorry for the novel! My $28,000 expenditure will last a long time, though, if I get all the minutiae set in stone! I love talking mechanics and have been wrenching on my own vehicles for a long time, so this isn't my first rodeo, it's just a different animal this time around.

Rob
 
Honestly, as far as the specs are concerned; to me, if you have a favorite oil that you've been using for years, go to that manufacturer's website and see if their 5w-20 oil meets that spec.

It should be on their data sheet. As long as you keep it changed, the engine will probably outlast the frame of the car.

I wouldn't use 5w-30 as long as it's under warranty.

Just my .02.
 
Pennzoil, Quaker State & Valvoline synthetics all meet Chrysler MS-6395. Even some of their blends do. 5W-20 or 0W-20 - either should be fine. Your 5W-30 PYB should be fine for top offs - you have a big 6 qt sump in that engine. For OCI - I'd just follow the OLM, even for the 1st change. Keep it topped off and 10 years will be a walk in the park.
 
During warranty you should use only oil that meets Chrysler specs MS-6395, for oil filter you should use Chrysler or Fram Ultra. After warranty you can use any name brand synthetic 0W20 and Fram Ultra oil filter.
 
I would not let the car warm up till the oil reaches 100F. This is causing MORE wear not less. A three minute MAX cold start warmup then drive slowly in sub freezing temps for a few mins.

Don't baby the engine to death. The 5w30 is FINE for top ups with NO adverse effects whatsoever. None.
 
Just drive it like you stole it, dump the factory fill at 1K, fresh oil and filter and your on your way
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You are fine to use 5w30 for top offs and even for a full oil change if you are trying to use up some of your oil stash. It will not void your warranty and many dealers will use it for an oil change. 5w30 does meet Chrysler standard MS6395 and that's what I use in my 3.6L Pentastar except in 2011 5w30 was the recommended viscosity. I would say its best to use 5w20 as suggested in your owners manual if you had to buy oil but I wouldn't lose any sleep if 5w30 was used especially in the summer months.
 
How does letting the engine warm up cause more wear? You'll have to elaborate on that one for me.

How does driving the engine hard during the first 1k miles help it in the long run? Is changing the oil at 1k or 2k going to provide any benefit over changing it at 10k?

I'm not too worried about this thing: I know the Pentastar is built well. I'd just like to run it for 250,000 miles to say I could, while not necessarily babying it. Like I said, I do hammer down on the throttle once in a while. I may turbo this engine in the future...
 
Any oil ran according to the OLM that meets the correct spec will get your engine to 250k. This thing is very easy on oil.

They are able to get to 8k with conventional oil very easily. It can be done, but it is feared here by some too. At 8k intervals, the price difference from conventional to synthetic isn't enough to break the bank IMO so run whatever makes you happy.

Run what you want as long as it meets the correct spec for warranty purposes and youre golden.

I too would dump the factory fill early.
 
I dumped the factory fill on my 2014 Ram Hemi at 500 miles since it was a leftover 2014 & the factory oil was probably in the oil pan for a year. I'd run that oil to 1000 miles & switch to a good Syn, that meets your Chrysler Warranty Spec. Congrads! My next vehicle will be either a Challenger or Charger with the 6.4 HEMI for sure! Great Choice!
 
ISLAC oils with high % FM likely aren't good for break in. Maybe run a lawnmower oil or shared sump oil for a couple OCI. Are Any ATV oils in 30 grade. Yardman snowblower oil used to be VERY good, too.
 
The initial miles were from test drives. The loop for test drives was about 10 miles, so I figured about 10 people had test-driven before I picked it up.
 
My new Nissan is at 21mpg with 175HP and only 3500lbs. This is pretty sad
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My wife gets just under 30MPG on her comparable forester - but that's a schtik shifty.
 
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