2013 Triumph Tiger 800, Rotella T4 15W40, 2000 mi

[Mackelroy]

Valvoline, just came up with new bottles and they updated the new stickers to jaso ma2. The dino has always been jaso ma2 qualified, but they never updated the sticker till now.

They must have had 10 years worth of old stickers to burn through

 

[Mackelroy]

Originally Posted By: SlipperyPete
I was just poking those who ascribe magical properties to this oil rather than just admit they buy it because it's cheap.


I used to buy it at autozone, but autozone raised their prices to like $6 per quart for dino Valvoline (that was a little crazy), walmart its $4.50 per quart.

too bad for autozone

 

[Mackelroy]

Originally Posted By: Brian553
Dang.



I assume the basestock isn't a concern when it comes to shearing, but the VIIs are.



some shearing is normal, depending on the oil, it may shear a full grade in 1000 miles or 2000 miles, it just depends on oil capacity, and use, barring any fuel dilution, which naturally happens anyway.

just about all base stocks now adays are group 3 Hydrocracked , whther they have synthetic on the label or not. You have to pay near $20 per quart for a REAL synthetic.

 

[troop]

Walmart currently has Valvoline 10w40 or 20w50 dino at $4.44/qt and 10w40 or 20w50 full syn at $6.67/qt. With free shipping to store, it's really convenient.

 

[Bonz]

You can see my analysis in the link I provided for the T5. It is materially no different than T4 or T6 in terms of the additive package. Use it with confidence. Proof is in the results, much more beneficial in the real world than blathering and quoting an owners manual on a bike that is well out of warranty. Sure, the Castrol is gonna work fine, use it with confidence. Use any of the Rotella oils with confidence as well. Once again results and real world numbers tell the tale.

 

[SlipperyPete]

Originally Posted By: Bonz
You can see my analysis in the link I provided for the T5. It is materially no different than T4 or T6 in terms of the additive package. Use it with confidence. Proof is in the results, much more beneficial in the real world than blathering and quoting an owners manual on a bike that is well out of warranty. Sure, the Castrol is gonna work fine, use it with confidence. Use any of the Rotella oils with confidence as well. Once again results and real world numbers tell the tale.


Your reading comprehension isn't up to throwing stones.

 

[Bonz]

SlipperyPete, that’s the kind of response a middle school kid gives.

Carry on.

 

[Bonz]

Look, I understand from the warranty perspective none of the Rotella oil’s, approved or not approved on a list, don’t meet the meet the weight grades Triumph calls for. No argument on that. I got sidetracked into the more general oil thread bantering and blathering that isn’t productive.

My apologies on that because for warranty purposes the Rotella oil’s won’t do it.

My comprehension is better than throwing stones, however the mindset got sidetracked to where it wasn’t worth throwing a hill of beans relative to the discussion at hand.

 

[SlipperyPete]

Look who finally paid enough attention to find the owner of the new bike, still under warranty, to whom I addressed my comments.

 

[Overfill]

Originally Posted By: SlipperyPete
Look who finally paid enough attention to find the owner of the new bike, still under warranty, to whom I addressed my comments.


I understand your comments were to provide good direction for someone to use an oil that protects against warranty claims via satisfying what lies in Triumph's manuals for the bike. I understand that there is much to trust these engineers, given they ought know what oil the bike will need.

So SlipperyPete, do you think Rotella T5 is objectively the same, more, or less useful in this bike, and why?

 

[SlipperyPete]

Rotella won't cause a bit of problem. If I had a bike that shifted OK with it, I would use nothing else. Just not during warranty on a Triumph.

 

[Bonz]

That’s the crux of this thread and I apologize for getting my undies in a bundle over the same stuff that’s been hashed for years.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: troop
Walmart currently has Valvoline 10w40 or 20w50 dino at $4.44/qt and 10w40 or 20w50 full syn at $6.67/qt. With free shipping to store, it's really convenient.



I love that VBB (Valvoline Blue Bottle) conventional 20w50. Best shifting experience on the DL650 yet. And if it shears 25%, I still have a stout 40 weight

 

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted by alarmguy

To answer question #1,
I doubt anyone can show me a 15/40, 20/50 or Mystik 15/50 oil that sheared down to a 20 weight, with reasonable mileage of 5000 miles, in a motorcycle.




I can.... I did some oil testing for a blending company that will remain.... nameless. Their 15w50 synthetic sheared to a very high 20wt in 1,700 miles of my abuse.

In a shared sump situation with nasty off-road riding, where there is a lot of steep climbs and a ton of clutch slipping.... Oil is destroyed. ....and I say any oil.

The company was so upset with the results, I suggested they pick a couple of top-shelf motorcycle oil brands and let me take them through the paces and test them as they did their own..... Yep, same results.

I contend there is a world of difference in motorcycle oil performance, when you compare city riding (hundreds of stop lights and stop and go...), compared to someone that either commutes many miles with few stops, or the rider that climbs on a bike and runs down an interstate for hundreds of miles.

A lot of clutch work and the oil will take a pounding.

In my experience, 15w40 HDEO with JASO certs is about the best there is.

 

[Blaze]

Originally Posted by Reddy45
Previous OCI was Rotella T6 as indicated in red text.

I guess this engine just likes to shear oil?

The oil in the bike now is Maxima Extra4 15W50 which I plan to run for 6K miles regardless of time, so we'll see how it looks when I sample it for a UOA in a year or so.

Would love to see the Maxima Extra UOA. Been using that in my KTM 450 since new two yyr ago.

 

[ulflyer]

Reddy, apologies if I missed it, but why did you change the T6 after only 840 miles?

 

[Bonz]

Reddy, apologies if I missed it, but why did you change the T6 after only 840 miles?

My guess is the shift quality fell off, as it was a 30 weight by 840 miles. Flashpoint is still decent so it wasn't from fuel contamination, IMO.

In a shared sump when the oil is two weights below what the manufacturer recommends after 840 miles I'd choose a more shear stable oil as well.

I've said it before and I'll say it again... Mobil 1 10w40 4T or 20w50 V-Twin is the beginning and end for one of the better shear resistant motorcycle oils in a shared sump over the long haul (5,000 mile oci's) in my opinion and in my experience. There are others that will do as well however this stuff is readily available at any Walmart and around $10 a quart it is cost-effective going with a longer oil change interval. I know many guys go with the conventional motorcycle oils or Rotella however I don't see many UOA's going 5,000 miles. Most are going about half of that.

 

[SZR48207]

Reddy, apologies if I missed it, but why did you change the T6 after only 840 miles?

I can't remember now but this was a "new to me" bike at the time so I was trying to see which oil would work best based on my perception. My prior bike was an SV650 which ran wonderfully on T6 5W40 so I had a few extra jugs laying around to try on the Tiger. (I think I got one of those smoking hot Amazon deals where it was like 3 gallons of Rotella for $30 shipped)

Anyway I'm running T4 15W40 again and will switch to T6 15W40 at the next oil change.

 

[wpod]

Thicker oil is better.

 

[Gunnar#1]

Im looking to do an extended ride on my 2008 klr 650 in which I run the Mobil 1300 super 15/40, which I got for $1.75 a quart, the shifting starts going nasty at about 2000 miles of hard adventure riding and thats about when I change it. I was hoping to run an oil that would last longer so I dont have to do an oil change mid trip. I am of course correlating the shift quality with the shear. I was thinking the Rotella T6 15/50 but now Im not sure. usually the expensive $20 a quart motorcycle oils are a non-starter for me because of price, but it might be worth it in this case. What do you think?

The factory service manual, which is from 2008 also specifies 10-30 oil from minus 10-30 degrees centigrade, 10-40 oil from minus 10-40, 10-50 oil from minus 10 to above 40, it doesn't say 50 degrees but thats where it would be on the scale, im in Arizona so its not completely unheard of. 20-40 oil from 0 to 40 degrees and 20-50 oil from 0 to 50 degrees. and it says api se, sf or sg api sj or sl with jaso ma