2013 Toyota Venza 2GR-FE

[TMoto]

We recently bought a 2013 Venza XLE AWD with the 2GR-FE 3.5l V6 with less than 9,000 miles. Although it's in an odd niche of being a wagonish/CUV type of vehicle, the wife loves it. It was originally sold in the summer of 2013 so it's 3½ years old with very low miles and is in like-new condition as expected.

Anyone have any experience with these and what to look out for? The 2GR-FE engine seems to be solid from what I can tell, along with the rest of the vehicle but I don't see much on the AWD system.

However, there is this on the auto trans. I initially read that the U660E automatic trans is reliable, however I found an article about a trouble area. http://etereman.com/blog/toyota-transmis...lly-been-solved

The transmission has a ridiculous service interval of 120k or something like that and has no dipstick. There's also a complex fill procedure that involves a special tool and vacuum. I think I'll use my local indy mechanic for that job but my question is, have you heard of this issue and can anything be done to minimize or prevent the issue without a tear-down? Doesn't seem there would be, other than babying it to keep the torque from aggravating it. I'm thinking 30k mile trans service and possibly Lube-Gard for now. Any thoughts on that?

I already purchased an oil filter tool from MotivX which appears to be necessary.

I perused the ToyotaNation forums and I know this isn't exactly an enthusiast vehicle, but are there any other useful forums?

Thanks for any and all replies.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

I probably would have bought a Venza if it had been out two car purchases ago for me...I ended up with an '06 "RAV6".

I've traded in the RAV4, but my wife still has an Avalon with the 2GR-FE and it seems like there is not much you can do to harm those things (speaking from experience, the opinion of the Toyota specialist I used, and my perception of its online reputation).

Looks like my AWD transmission is different than yours, but I will tell you that I had a lot of trouble with it...Toyota told me that the ATF was "lifetime" and what a crock that was. That local Toyota independent had the special machine to change the ATF and I had it changed before 60k after they showed me how bad it looked...they had purchased the machine because so many of their customers were having transmission issues with the "lifetime" fluids. They also fixed a major crack that developed in my AWD system not long after I was out of warranty, but I'm hoping your newer vehicle won't have this issue that I was told was caused by a too abrupt shift in power from the front to the rear.

Should be a nice ride, have fun with it!

 

[THafeez]

Don't mean to sound like an [censored], but what's a RAV6?

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: THafeez
Don't mean to sound like an [censored], but what's a RAV6?


Rav4 with the V6.

 

[TMoto]

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Looks like my AWD transmission is different than yours, but I will tell you that I had a lot of trouble with it...Toyota told me that the ATF was "lifetime" and what a crock that was. That local Toyota independent had the special machine to change the ATF and I had it changed before 60k after they showed me how bad it looked...they had purchased the machine because so many of their customers were having transmission issues with the "lifetime" fluids. They also fixed a major crack that developed in my AWD system not long after I was out of warranty, but I'm hoping your newer vehicle won't have this issue that I was told was caused by a too abrupt shift in power from the front to the rear.

Thanks for the info, the local indy mechanic I use when I need to, used to work for Toyota so I'll be having a conversation with him soon.

From what I understand, the AWD system is FWD until wheel spin is detected and then it shifts power to the rear wheels. From what I've read, it's a good system but I'll look into the possibility of the issue you've experienced.

 

[FZ1]

I'd let a Toyota dealer do the work.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: TMoto

Thanks for the info, the local indy mechanic I use when I need to, used to work for Toyota so I'll be having a conversation with him soon.

From what I understand, the AWD system is FWD until wheel spin is detected and then it shifts power to the rear wheels. From what I've read, it's a good system but I'll look into the possibility of the issue you've experienced.


Again, I hope your system is more sophisticated, but the V6 in my RAV would really bring the rear around with some authority when I tried to turn on ice...the easy fix was to push the "4WD" button, which would make the thing pretend it was an old school jeep until it hit 25mph. The rather basic FWD/RWD system in my Toyota didn't hold a candle to the AWD systems in my Outback and Forester, IMHO, but it was functional enough to keep me on the road during some nasty New England winters. My indy Toyota mechanic told me that many of the RAV4 and related AWD systems would be damaged merely by having the front wheels hit a wet stop strip in the road that would cause all the power to shift to the rear too quickly...

 

[LeakySeals]

That engine is good literally forever if you take care of it. As far as the transmission, draining and adding fluid is similar to a transfer case or diff setup. Fill till it pours out the hole. But like transmissions with a dipstick need to do that hot. So when it pours out the hole full the fluid is expanded. The tool checks the temp through the transmission ecu, something like that. I did it my own way. Drained, filled, drove it on the highway for 20 mins, came back and opened the fill bolt. More came out, put the bolt back in, done.

 

[BlastChamber]

Originally Posted By: TMoto
The transmission has a ridiculous service interval of 120k or something like that and has no dipstick. There's also a complex fill procedure that involves a special tool and vacuum. I think I'll use my local indy mechanic for that job but my question is, have you heard of this issue and can anything be done to minimize or prevent the issue without a tear-down? Doesn't seem there would be, other than babying it to keep the torque from aggravating it. I'm thinking 30k mile trans service and possibly Lube-Gard for now. Any thoughts on that?


I also have the U660E in my 2011 Sienna. I recently did a first drain and refill at 53k miles(including filter) and it took 3 quarts. The fluid was quite dark in color. I used Toyota Type WS for the refill, and will do another drain/refill in the spring. I made sure the car sat overnight before draining and kept the new fluid next to the car so the temperatures were the same. It was 3 quarts exactly.

I have also read that article about the dusting problem with U660E transmissions. Sounds like there is nothing that one can do to prevent it, but I'm not overly worried about it. Doing the fluid drain/refills with filters every 30k miles in the future is my maintenance plan. Normally I do add some Lubegard red, but in this case I decided not to as I've read that the U660E is fussy about it's fluid, hence my filling with Type WS. This is just my opinion only, and your mileage may vary.

 

[TMoto]

Thanks again for the comments. I think I'm going to have my mechanic do the work while it's still under warranty, as long as he has the appropriate tools to follow Toyota's procedure. With 3½ years left on the 7 year/100k warranty I'll likely have one, maybe two done with a 30k interval. No way will we put 90k miles on it in that time, although this will be our road trip vehicle for visits to family in IA and CA.

Should I insist on WS fluid or is there something else better? Although, I'll probably post again in the ATF forum when it comes time just to make sure something new isn't out that's recommended.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: TMoto
Thanks again for the comments. I think I'm going to have my mechanic do the work while it's still under warranty, as long as he has the appropriate tools to follow Toyota's procedure. With 3½ years left on the 7 year/100k warranty I'll likely have one, maybe two done with a 30k interval. No way will we put 90k miles on it in that time, although this will be our road trip vehicle for visits to family in IA and CA.

Should I insist on WS fluid or is there something else better? Although, I'll probably post again in the ATF forum when it comes time just to make sure something new isn't out that's recommended.


Use WS if you plan to replace it often. Use something better if you plan to let it go 60-100K miles before the next service.

Defining "better" is another matter I won't get into. Let's just say there's some debate.