2013 Honda Ridgeline-Oil choices, paralysis by analysis

Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
61
Location
PA
Looking for some direction for my next oil change on my 2013 Honda Ridgeline. Has about 92,000 miles, is used mostly from December-March/April depending on how winter is here in Central PA. I don't use it as much in the summer unless I am mtn. biking, kayaking or towing (mostly my Kubota Bx subcompact). Since I bought it with around 30,000 miles it has always had 0w20, mostly M1 and recently M1 EP. It is usually not short tripped, my commute to work everyday is about 20 mins, combo back roads, 55mph highway.

Recently I've been pondering switching to a slightly heavier grade of oil, as of right now it does not burn a drop over the MM Oci. Which can vary from 7-9000 miles. Since I did a lot of towing this past summer it is already at 30% with about 4600 miles.

I'm thinking about stepping up to a heavy weight 0/5w30, 0w40 or 5w40. Mainly because its out of warranty now and I've recently decided to keep it for the long haul instead of trading it in on a new Ridgeline. Knowing I will not be trying to do extended OCI's or have to worry since its still port injected, ive been considering a wide range of oils. Basically looking at what would be available from Mall Wart or any Advance/Autozone. M1 0/5w30 ESP, QS 5w40 eruo, M1 0w40 (which is what ive ran in my 06 Civic Si for a decade now) PP 5w30 Euro, Basically looking for something that would be a thick 30wt or decent 40wt to run in it and see how it reacts vs the 0w20 ive ran in it its whole life.
 
Off the shelf options - M1 5w30/0w30, M1 0w40. You're looking at a jump in HT/HS from 2.6 to 3.0-3.5. I'd probably go with M1 5w30 EP before jumping to the 0w40.
 
If you already use the M1 0W-40 just try that in the Ridgeline. It is a great motor oil and I can’t recall anyone finding a downside to it in their vehicle.
 
Looking for some direction for my next oil change on my 2013 Honda Ridgeline. Has about 92,000 miles, is used mostly from December-March/April depending on how winter is here in Central PA. I don't use it as much in the summer unless I am mtn. biking, kayaking or towing (mostly my Kubota Bx subcompact). Since I bought it with around 30,000 miles it has always had 0w20, mostly M1 and recently M1 EP. It is usually not short tripped, my commute to work everyday is about 20 mins, combo back roads, 55mph highway.

Recently I've been pondering switching to a slightly heavier grade of oil, as of right now it does not burn a drop over the MM Oci. Which can vary from 7-9000 miles. Since I did a lot of towing this past summer it is already at 30% with about 4600 miles.

I'm thinking about stepping up to a heavy weight 0/5w30, 0w40 or 5w40. Mainly because its out of warranty now and I've recently decided to keep it for the long haul instead of trading it in on a new Ridgeline. Knowing I will not be trying to do extended OCI's or have to worry since its still port injected, ive been considering a wide range of oils. Basically looking at what would be available from Mall Wart or any Advance/Autozone. M1 0/5w30 ESP, QS 5w40 eruo, M1 0w40 (which is what ive ran in my 06 Civic Si for a decade now) PP 5w30 Euro, Basically looking for something that would be a thick 30wt or decent 40wt to run in it and see how it reacts vs the 0w20 ive ran in it its whole life.
If it ain't broke don't "fix" it. No burn is great. Hard to beat the 0-20 EP. .02
 
Another data point - I have a 2011 Odyssey with 203,000 miles, same J35Z series engine as you have.

It has been Mobil 1 0w20 since day one. Followed the Maintenance Minder every time except replaced oil filters at every oil change. Honda oil filters in warranty period and early years, Bosch 3323 filter for last few years. Burns no oil. It gets Mobil 1 High Mileage or EP HM now.

I do have a VCM disable device installed since 120k miles. Strongly recommend for long engine/ring life, almost an absolute must. I started seeing oil consumption and spark plug fouling at 120k miles. Changed plugs, installed VCM disable, oil consumption back to zero. I use the “VCM Tuner II” device from vcmtuner.com. Slight decrease in fuel mileage, maybe 2 MPG lower at most.

Hope this helps.
 
Looking for some direction for my next oil change on my 2013 Honda Ridgeline. Has about 92,000 miles, is used mostly from December-March/April depending on how winter is here in Central PA. I don't use it as much in the summer unless I am mtn. biking, kayaking or towing (mostly my Kubota Bx subcompact). Since I bought it with around 30,000 miles it has always had 0w20, mostly M1 and recently M1 EP. It is usually not short tripped, my commute to work everyday is about 20 mins, combo back roads, 55mph highway.

Recently I've been pondering switching to a slightly heavier grade of oil, as of right now it does not burn a drop over the MM Oci. Which can vary from 7-9000 miles. Since I did a lot of towing this past summer it is already at 30% with about 4600 miles.

I'm thinking about stepping up to a heavy weight 0/5w30, 0w40 or 5w40. Mainly because its out of warranty now and I've recently decided to keep it for the long haul instead of trading it in on a new Ridgeline. Knowing I will not be trying to do extended OCI's or have to worry since its still port injected, ive been considering a wide range of oils. Basically looking at what would be available from Mall Wart or any Advance/Autozone. M1 0/5w30 ESP, QS 5w40 eruo, M1 0w40 (which is what ive ran in my 06 Civic Si for a decade now) PP 5w30 Euro, Basically looking for something that would be a thick 30wt or decent 40wt to run in it and see how it reacts vs the 0w20 ive ran in it its whole life.
Everything is pretty much perfect and you are proposing to answer a question the car is not asking. Stay with that 0 W 20.
 
Keep on trucking......
Maybe switch to a 30 in hot summer weather while towing.....if you desire.

20 weights rock in cold weather
 
0W20 for winter, less drag on the starter, less work for the battery. Thicker oil might heat up faster? being harder to pump—but then that means less mpg? all speculation on my part. 20 minute drive to work, I have to wonder how warm the oil really gets in winter (don’t know if it has an oil-coolant heat exchanger, probably does).

Anyhow. Not towing in winter, not seeing the need for thicker oil, leave that stuff for the warmer months. Nothing wrong with it, I just think it’s not gaining anything for you at this time. This is not your dad’s truck: there should be no fear of crossing that 100k mark any more, it’s no longer the kiss of death that it used to be.
 
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