2010 Camry 2.5L oil consumption

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Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
I suspect low tension piston rings is a big part of this. These engines seem to like very clean, thin oil. I am generally becoming a fan of frequent OCIs. Good, SN+/D1G2il is dirt cheap.

Valvoline Restore from ryder.com, then preventive maintenance is my suggestion. Otherwise top 'er off Granny, w/ST once a week.


Rings and lack of oil return holes is the other main problem. Thin wont help; trust me, I own a 2AZ-FE powered Camry. 15w40 seems to be slowing consumption


Thank you.
I was stuck between a Certified Used RAV4 w/2AZ-FE and a new RAV4 w/A25A-FKS.
If I pull the trigger it will be the 2019+...wait...wut ?...spec'd for 0W16 ???
blush.gif
 
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
I suspect low tension piston rings is a big part of this. These engines seem to like very clean, thin oil. I am generally becoming a fan of frequent OCIs. Good, SN+/D1G2il is dirt cheap.

Valvoline Restore from ryder.com, then preventive maintenance is my suggestion. Otherwise top 'er off Granny, w/ST once a week.


Rings and lack of oil return holes is the other main problem. Thin wont help; trust me, I own a 2AZ-FE powered Camry. 15w40 seems to be slowing consumption


Thank you.
I was stuck between a Certified Used RAV4 w/2AZ-FE and a new RAV4 w/A25A-FKS.
If I pull the trigger it will be the 2019+...wait...wut ?...spec'd for 0W16 ???
blush.gif






So?
 
I love my Camry, I just check my oil religiously is all. Keep a few gallons of Maxlife 15w40 in trunk for top up oil.

When that's gone it will he Harvest king 15w40 or Traveller 15w40 since I can walk to the store
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
The piston rings are likely to be gummed up, probably from the 10K oil change intervals with 0w-20. ...
Popular theory, but unproven, as far as I've seen. What specific property of used oil at 9999 miles causes rings to "gum up" in these vulnerable engines, assuming the engine is otherwise sludge- and varnish-free? Does that property show up in typical used oil analysis? If not, what should they be measuring?

Full disclosure: I'm interested because have a Prius, which is reputedly vulnerable to the same issue, although I haven't experienced it, so far.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
I suspect low tension piston rings is a big part of this. These engines seem to like very clean, thin oil. I am generally becoming a fan of frequent OCIs. Good, SN+/D1G2il is dirt cheap.

Valvoline Restore from ryder.com, then preventive maintenance is my suggestion. Otherwise top 'er off Granny, w/ST once a week.


Rings and lack of oil return holes is the other main problem. Thin wont help; trust me, I own a 2AZ-FE powered Camry. 15w40 seems to be slowing consumption


Thank you.
I was stuck between a Certified Used RAV4 w/2AZ-FE and a new RAV4 w/A25A-FKS.
If I pull the trigger it will be the 2019+...wait...wut ?...spec'd for 0W16 ???
blush.gif






So?


A favorite oil of mine is Ravenol EFE 0W16.
I have used it in a Hybrid for 40k miles.
HTHS 2.4
TBN 8.4
SA 0.9%

My new fixation is Motul Hybrid 0W16.
HTHS 2.3
TBN 8.5
SA 0.89%

I believe I am going to go for a 2019 RAV4 towards the end of the year,
when the 2020's come out.

Sorry for the thread hijack.
The end.
 
Back in the 60s when I was in hs I worked in a "gas station" pumping gas and of course we opened the hood and checked the engine oil and the "fan belts" every time.

Nowadays I never see anybody looking under the hood at a fuel stop. I'm really surprised there aren't more blown engines.
 
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by The Critic
The piston rings are likely to be gummed up, probably from the 10K oil change intervals with 0w-20. ...
Popular theory, but unproven, as far as I've seen. What specific property of used oil at 9999 miles causes rings to "gum up" in these vulnerable engines, assuming the engine is otherwise sludge- and varnish-free? Does that property show up in typical used oil analysis? If not, what should they be measuring?

Full disclosure: I'm interested because have a Prius, which is reputedly vulnerable to the same issue, although I haven't experienced it, so far.


When I was doing oil changes at Goodyear still before finishing college people that went that kind of miles on oil (even synthetic) had horrible looking oil coming out. I know everyone claims that what it looks like isn't important, used oil analysis is more important than anything (I'll keep changing mine early enough that it doesn't look sludgy coming out). That said, we're in a climate that gets very cold in the summer and lots of local people drive mostly short trips.

It seems like people on this site fail to think about conditions under anyone's climate but their own, or anyone's driving conditions but there own.

If anyone asks me if they can go 10k miles on their oil I tell them only if they do nothing but highway driving with synthetic, in a car that is not known to be hard on oil or sludge up easily. Even then, change it sooner in the winter months.

That said I don't know what the car in the op was treated like because it was bought used and has unknown history according to the op.
 
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by The Critic
The piston rings are likely to be gummed up, probably from the 10K oil change intervals with 0w-20. ...
Popular theory, but unproven, as far as I've seen. What specific property of used oil at 9999 miles causes rings to "gum up" in these vulnerable engines, assuming the engine is otherwise sludge- and varnish-free? Does that property show up in typical used oil analysis? If not, what should they be measuring?

Full disclosure: I'm interested because have a Prius, which is reputedly vulnerable to the same issue, although I haven't experienced it, so far.



It's certainly proven... Given how many Toyotas burn oil.... Just like my lady's 98 Camry... Plus many, many on here.. When those motors are broken down it is extremely apparent what the issue is.. just like The Critic stated.

Plus not even longer runs we're needed to cause that problem. The 98 Camry we got certainly did not see long change intervals. The lady's grandmother took great care of that car... It was in mint condition when we got it 5 and a half years ago. Only had 66k miles. A tremendously good car at the end of the day. I just had to be mindful to check the oil regularly in it.
 
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Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by The Critic
The piston rings are likely to be gummed up, probably from the 10K oil change intervals with 0w-20. ...
Popular theory, but unproven, as far as I've seen. What specific property of used oil at 9999 miles causes rings to "gum up" in these vulnerable engines, assuming the engine is otherwise sludge- and varnish-free? Does that property show up in typical used oil analysis? If not, what should they be measuring?

Full disclosure: I'm interested because have a Prius, which is reputedly vulnerable to the same issue, although I haven't experienced it, so far.


When I was doing oil changes at Goodyear still before finishing college people that went that kind of miles on oil (even synthetic) had horrible looking oil coming out. I know everyone claims that what it looks like isn't important, used oil analysis is more important than anything (I'll keep changing mine early enough that it doesn't look sludgy coming out). That said, we're in a climate that gets very cold in the summer and lots of local people drive mostly short trips.

It seems like people on this site fail to think about conditions under anyone's climate but their own, or anyone's driving conditions but there own.

If anyone asks me if they can go 10k miles on their oil I tell them only if they do nothing but highway driving with synthetic, in a car that is not known to be hard on oil or sludge up easily. Even then, change it sooner in the winter months.

That said I don't know what the car in the op was treated like because it was bought used and has unknown history according to the op.



Really good post here ^^^^^
 
Originally Posted by bbhero
... It's certainly proven... Given how many Toyotas burn oil.... Just like my lady's 98 Camry... Plus many, many on here.. When those motors are broken down it is extremely apparent what the issue is.. just like The Critic stated. ...
You gave one more example, but I don't see where you explained how it's proven that 10k changes necessarily cause the ring-clogging problem in these engines, assuming the oil checks ok in UOA and is not forming obvious sludge or varnish elsewhere in the engine. How do you know it wouldn't happen in these engines with 7k oil changes, other things being equal?
 
Proven.. Whether you, your mother, father etc etc like it or not....


Look on here... Read ALL the posts about these motors BURNING oil.... It is extensive. Documented.... Many many many many times over...

And... I did also make note.... It was not due specifically to 10k mile intervals... Even short ones it has happened routinely.
 
Hahaha ha
lol.gif


Well said... 4wd...

I don't do that by the way
lol.gif



In all seriousness... I would say the same thing about CVT transmission issues in regards to the generation of CVT past mine 2013-2015... Whether I or my mother or step father etc etc like it or not... There have been a good number of documented CVT failures... That is a fact. Whether I like it or not.

A buddy of mine just had his 2013 Nissan Sentra CVT fail at 106k miles... Those CVTs just were not set up right from the factory. Plus I believe the motor does need to be a certain displacement in order for that transmission to work better.

For the record... My mother and step father just bout a Toyota Sienna... I'd they would have been looking at a CVT paired with a lower displacement motor I would have definitely steered them away from that purchase. Whether it would have been a Nissan or Subaru etc etc....

Their Dodge Ram had a sudden failure with the rear axle locking be up suddenly... Tore the bell housing right out... 16k dollars worth of damage to the truck.. A known failure with a Nationwide TSB about the issue.. They had taken the Ram to a local dealer... No mention of this circumstance. My mom and step father were second owners... Truck broke on the bridge going to Isle of Palm in SC... On vacation no less. Lots of fun.
 
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Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
I suspect low tension piston rings is a big part of this. These engines seem to like very clean, thin oil. I am generally becoming a fan of frequent OCIs. Good, SN+/D1G2il is dirt cheap.

Valvoline Restore from ryder.com, then preventive maintenance is my suggestion. Otherwise top 'er off Granny, w/ST once a week.


Rings and lack of oil return holes is the other main problem. Thin wont help; trust me, I own a 2AZ-FE powered Camry. 15w40 seems to be slowing consumption


I don't think 15w40 would work well in PA. I did think about possible using Mobil 1 0w40.
 
As far as whether it's oil change intervals causing the drain back holes to plug up in engines that have this "problem"....I'm not sure what can cause them to plug besides oil being beyond it's prime. Sure, some other engines (example the gm 3800) by design don't seem to have this problem but that doesn't change that the oil went downhill and started to plug things up. Engines with variable valve timing are going to have long term issues also with oil left that long.

As far as varnish, I would almost guarantee there would be varnish in an engine run at 10k mile intervals under all but the most ideal conditions. Again, this is My opinion.

If you want to do long drains pick an engine that by design is going to cope with your choice of maintenance.
 
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
I suspect low tension piston rings is a big part of this. These engines seem to like very clean, thin oil. I am generally becoming a fan of frequent OCIs. Good, SN+/D1G2il is dirt cheap.

Valvoline Restore from ryder.com, then preventive maintenance is my suggestion. Otherwise top 'er off Granny, w/ST once a week.


Valvoline Restore only comes in 10w30 correct?
 
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
As far as whether it's oil change intervals causing the drain back holes to plug up in engines that have this "problem"....I'm not sure what can cause them to plug besides oil being beyond it's prime. Sure, some other engines (example the gm 3800) by design don't seem to have this problem but that doesn't change that the oil went downhill and started to plug things up. Engines with variable valve timing are going to have long term issues also with oil left that long.

As far as varnish, I would almost guarantee there would be varnish in an engine run at 10k mile intervals under all but the most ideal conditions. Again, this is My opinion.

If you want to do long drains pick an engine that by design is going to cope with your choice of maintenance.

Pretty sure it's just a defective design. Here's my 2007 Camry with just over 130k on it when these pictures were taken. Valve train is spotless, definitely doesn't look like an engine that was neglected. Still burns 1 qt/1k miles. I just put oil in it when it's low. Might replace the pistons/rings some day, might not.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Car was given to me by my parents, oil was whatever the dealer used changed whenever the dealer said to.
 
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Originally Posted by bbhero
Proven.. Whether you, your mother, father etc etc like it or not....
Look on here... Read ALL the posts about these motors BURNING oil.... It is extensive. Documented....
And... I did also make note.... It was not due specifically to 10k mile intervals... Even short ones it has happened routinely.
You just contradicted yourself!
 
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by The Critic
The piston rings are likely to be gummed up, probably from the 10K oil change intervals with 0w-20. ...
Popular theory, but unproven, as far as I've seen. What specific property of used oil at 9999 miles causes rings to "gum up" in these vulnerable engines, assuming the engine is otherwise sludge- and varnish-free? Does that property show up in typical used oil analysis? If not, what should they be measuring?

Full disclosure: I'm interested because have a Prius, which is reputedly vulnerable to the same issue, although I haven't experienced it, so far.

The issue is deposits. The piston rings are prone to being gummed up and any deposits accumulated will overtime, lead to this issue.

UOA's do not show whether an oil is leaving deposits. I strongly suspect that an engine oil with a low TBN will not have the same "deposit-fighting" capability as one with a higher TBN. I do not know what the TBN thresholds should be, but my guess is that an oil with a TBN of 2.5 remaining is not doing as good of a job as one with a TBN of 4.5 left. This is the only reasonable explanation that would explain why the shorter drain people seem to have fewer issues with oil consumption.
 
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