200K Accord and M1 0w20

[good_jolly]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You're correct, with the mileage on you're engine a drop in oil pressure would be a valid reason to go to a heavier grade of oil like 5W-30.
But it doesn't sound like that's the case with your engine and I would have stuck with the M1 0W-20.
Next oil change I'd consider going back to the 0W-20 grade and try Honda's own 0W-20 which is superior to M1 being just as heavy at operating temp's and lighter at start-up temp's such as the bitterly cold 50F in Texas.


lol

Originally Posted By: tig1
You'll find the 5-30EP to be a very good oil. I now have 10,200 miles on this fill in the Focus and the engine sounds no differant than when I first changed it. A year ago I did a UOA at 10,000 miles and the numbers were very good with almost 4.0 TBN left. I may change soon and plan to try the 5-20EP at that time.


I am looking to run the oil to 8-10K to get my money worth

Originally Posted By: PT1
Originally Posted By: Johnny
bepperb, do you think it's cold enough in Texas to justify a 0W oil.

Poor soul does not know what winter is.


You're not kidding....try 5w30


Yeah I just switched back to 5w30EP. The car has 5w30 dino all its life, mostly castrol gtx 5w30. After lurking into BITOG for years and as a car guy, I get the bug to change to syn at 190K. My car isn't as responsive to changes in oil brand as my other 03 accord v6.

Mr. Johnny, you are humorous. I am not a cold guy and last time it got down to 20F and it was....speechless.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
"I doubt the "weird rpm fluctuation" had anything to do with the oil. RPMs are controlled by the computer and various sensors. One of them for lack of a better term "could have been a little off". JMO"


Agreed. I'm thinking a dirty IACV. I'm not sure if that engine had a MAP or MAF. Could be that the OP is listening a little more closely due to the change, or maybe it is freer to rev. But, that's all computer controlled.


What is a IACV and where do I find it?
GM vehicles owner (Colorado and S-10)

 

[JMCHenginrd]

I just took a controls class last semester. If the engine fluctuations are very small and rapid, it is possible it could be due to the thinner oil.

Thinner oil would mean less damping in the engine system. This means the engine system could responds faster than the control unit is capable of handling. In other words, your engine changes faster than your computer can analyze it; so, while the engine is idling high, the computer still thinks its idling low.

I know little about the control system specific to a car though, so all I can say is its possible. It may not be likely though.

Edit: I also have a 200k+ accord and was thinking about the M1 EP 5W30. You like how its performing? Im trying to switch from plain whatevers-cheapest dino juice.

 

[good_jolly]

Honestly, if your car doesn't leak and looks wet at the bottom like a normal high mileage car, then I would go for the EP. If you want to lessen the wetness at the bottom, try Valvoline Maxlife, which is very good and works.

The V6 in my car is very hard to tell from brand to brand within the same weight. I can't feel anything at all between EP and Castrol GTX.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: good_jolly
Honestly, if your car doesn't leak and looks wet at the bottom like a normal high mileage car, then I would go for the EP. If you want to lessen the wetness at the bottom, try Valvoline Maxlife, which is very good and works.


If you any oil leaks, they should be corrected with new seals/gaskets, NOT with a chemical additive.

 

[bigmike]

I normally agree with that advice, but that depends on if it's worth fixing.