200K Accord and M1 0w20

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good_jolly

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I have a 98 Accord with over 200K. I just pour in M1 0w20 b/c I heard my year was backspec and the engine in good condition, no burning oil.

Here is my observation, on cold start it rev freer and higher about 250 rpm than 5w30 and drop slowly and quickly. Today the weather is in the low 50s, on the morning start, it rev higher as usual then the engine was making this weird rpm fluctuation. I shut off the engine and restart, everything back to normal.

So is this due to the oil or should I be changing back to 5w30. My reasoning of using m1 0w20 b/c it is still winter and should be about the same as 5w30 viscosity in the hot TX summer. I am a bit concerned about low oil pressure but figure it was backspec and engine not burning oil at all.

What do you think?
 
I really like the m1 0w20 and I get the itch of trying different oil. Perhaps next time will be redline 5w20? :) Fyi, I am a thin guy.
 
Its the v6. Thanks to BITOG, I quit the habit of changing my oil every 3K. One of the reasons for the change is for the reason said above and read that some members car had used 5w20 in older car. I recall someone(friskker?) said that he was using m1 0w20 in his 300K car and towing, etc.

Off the topic, I have tried Royal Purple MaxATF and Redline D4. The RP has a real positive upshift. It felt like it bogs the car a bit when driving normally from a stop. But once you hit 30 mph and you need speed, it shifts very quick and car more peppy.

I like Redline D4 better, less bog and smoother than RP. Just my observation but both are very good ATFs.
 
Originally Posted By: good_jolly


Here is my observation, on cold start it rev freer and higher about 250 rpm than 5w30 and drop slowly and quickly. Today the weather is in the low 50s, on the morning start, it rev higher as usual then the engine was making this weird rpm fluctuation. I shut off the engine and restart, everything back to normal.



What do you think?


I doubt the "weird rpm fluctuation" had anything to do with the oil. RPMs are controlled by the computer and various sensors. One of them for lack of a better term "could have been a little off". JMO
 
"I doubt the "weird rpm fluctuation" had anything to do with the oil. RPMs are controlled by the computer and various sensors. One of them for lack of a better term "could have been a little off". JMO"


Agreed. I'm thinking a dirty IACV. I'm not sure if that engine had a MAP or MAF. Could be that the OP is listening a little more closely due to the change, or maybe it is freer to rev. But, that's all computer controlled.
 
bepperb, do you think it's cold enough in Texas to justify a 0W oil.
grin2.gif


Poor soul does not know what winter is.
 
The idle fluctuation is most likely engine management - it could be all sorts of things. Not likely to be the oil, though.

In Texas, I'd probably run 5-30 in that tired engine.
As you noted, feeling a bit more pep in smaller engines is normal and good with thinner oil. It's your call.
 
I'd probably run a thin 5W-30 in that application. Like Havoline or Chevron Supreme. Those are about the thinnest for their grade (at operating temperature) that come to mind.
 
Originally Posted By: bepperb
"I doubt the "weird rpm fluctuation" had anything to do with the oil. RPMs are controlled by the computer and various sensors. One of them for lack of a better term "could have been a little off". JMO"


Agreed. I'm thinking a dirty IACV. I'm not sure if that engine had a MAP or MAF. Could be that the OP is listening a little more closely due to the change, or maybe it is freer to rev. But, that's all computer controlled.


+1 on the dirty IACV. My car used to do that when I first got it as well. The RPMs would slightly surge on idle (up and down) when you start it up.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: good_jolly


Here is my observation, on cold start it rev freer and higher about 250 rpm than 5w30 and drop slowly and quickly. Today the weather is in the low 50s, on the morning start, it rev higher as usual then the engine was making this weird rpm fluctuation. I shut off the engine and restart, everything back to normal.



What do you think?


I doubt the "weird rpm fluctuation" had anything to do with the oil. RPMs are controlled by the computer and various sensors. One of them for lack of a better term "could have been a little off". JMO
Originally Posted By: bepperb
"I doubt the "weird rpm fluctuation" had anything to do with the oil. RPMs are controlled by the computer and various sensors. One of them for lack of a better term "could have been a little off". JMO"


Agreed. I'm thinking a dirty IACV. I'm not sure if that engine had a MAP or MAF. Could be that the OP is listening a little more closely due to the change, or maybe it is freer to rev. But, that's all computer controlled.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
bepperb, do you think it's cold enough in Texas to justify a 0W oil.
grin2.gif


Poor soul does not know what winter is.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: calvinnnnnnnnn
why switch when everything was good?

X2
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The idle fluctuation is most likely engine management - it could be all sorts of things. Not likely to be the oil, though.

In Texas, I'd probably run 5-30 in that tired engine.
As you noted, feeling a bit more pep in smaller engines is normal and good with thinner oil. It's your call.
Originally Posted By: Winston
Thinner is better. :) Problem was not caused by the oil.
Originally Posted By: Winston
Thinner is better. :) Problem was not caused by the oil.
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
I'd probably run a thin 5W-30 in that application. Like Havoline or Chevron Supreme. Those are about the thinnest for their grade (at operating temperature) that come to mind.
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Originally Posted By: bepperb
"I doubt the "weird rpm fluctuation" had anything to do with the oil. RPMs are controlled by the computer and various sensors. One of them for lack of a better term "could have been a little off". JMO"


Agreed. I'm thinking a dirty IACV. I'm not sure if that engine had a MAP or MAF. Could be that the OP is listening a little more closely due to the change, or maybe it is freer to rev. But, that's all computer controlled.


+1 on the dirty IACV. My car used to do that when I first got it as well. The RPMs would slightly surge on idle (up and down) when you start it up.


Thank you everyone. I just switched to M1 5w30EP. It doesn't feel as peppy as the 0w20 but better safe than sorry with a high mileage car and follow you wise men advise.

However, I feel like there is a layer of silk cushioning my butt with the EP :) Btw, I didn't waste the new 0w20, I drained it in a container for use in another car.
 
Originally Posted By: Carzzz
Very nice to see you hit the 200k mark!
just wondering you still on the original tranny?


I just had the transmission rebuilt at 204K. I really hated the harsh shift from 1-2 gear and has been driving with it for like 100K.

I really like the car due to the way it looks, ride, and its going to be one of the vehicles that you rarely going to see on the road due to trans problem. Beside, I invested about 3K in maintainence for past 3 years (trans rebuilt,all motor mounts, shock/strut, timing belt, bushings, etc.).

I don't think the engine will have any problem as it doesn't eat or leak oil. Still on original valve cover gasket and sp tube seal. I just changed the sway bar bushing and it made a noticeable improvement in handling.
 
You're correct, with the mileage on you're engine a drop in oil pressure would be a valid reason to go to a heavier grade of oil like 5W-30.
But it doesn't sound like that's the case with your engine and I would have stuck with the M1 0W-20.
Next oil change I'd consider going back to the 0W-20 grade and try Honda's own 0W-20 which is superior to M1 being just as heavy at operating temp's and lighter at start-up temp's such as the bitterly cold 50F in Texas.
 
You'll find the 5-30EP to be a very good oil. I now have 10,200 miles on this fill in the Focus and the engine sounds no differant than when I first changed it. A year ago I did a UOA at 10,000 miles and the numbers were very good with almost 4.0 TBN left. I may change soon and plan to try the 5-20EP at that time.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
bepperb, do you think it's cold enough in Texas to justify a 0W oil.
grin2.gif


Poor soul does not know what winter is.


You're not kidding....try 5w30
 
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