2008 Mitsu Outlander V-6: Amsoil 0w-30 or 0w-20?

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I just purchased a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander with the V-6. It's a FWD SUV (not AWD). After the break-in period, I want to switch to Amsoil. I used to use the Series 2000 0w30 stuff, but the past 3 years I've had a leased vehicle that provided all the maintenance and oil. I had no idea it would be discontinued.

Anyways... I live in Georgia. Summer will be hot, and hits the 90s quite often. I have a 17' ski boat that I pull to the lake about every other weekend in the summer. Those lake drives are all about 60-80 miles to get there. My daily drive to work is 7 miles each way, with very little stop and go traffic. Other trips are mostly highway miles. I also drive pretty moderately, so I won't be racing from stop light to stop light.

What would be the better choice? The 0w20 would be ideal for fuel economy, but I think I may need something a little thicker for pulling the boat.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 
This is what Amsoil says on the subject...I would go with ASL 0W20, or if (for some reason) you fear the warranty police the 5W20 XL. I've been beating the snot out of the ASL for 10,000 miles now in my 07 F150 (hauling lots o' tons of rock and driving like a madman empty). We'll see how the UOA does at 15,000 miles.

2008 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 3.0L 6-cyl Engine Code [X] 6B31

FILTERS
Oil Filter: EAO13 Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter
Oil Filter: 51356 WIX 51356 Oil Filter
Fuel Filter: NS


LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-20 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Signature Series Oil
 
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What does Mitsu recommend?

I'd use what viscosity they specify. Whatever you choose, I'd look at a few UOA's to see how your choice does. If UOA shows it to be working, stick with it - if the UOA shows that the Mitsu doesn't like your choice, try something else. Likely, many oils will give good results - oils are very good these days...

I'm pleased with ASM 0W-20, but that's in my Tundra...

later,
b
 
Mitsu recommends a 5w-20.

I'm leaning towards the 0w-20, and I'm very interested to see how Pickled's F150 looks at his analysis.

My boat isn't very heavy, but the extra strain on the motor is what made me think about going a little thicker.
 
Like Pablo said, if you want 'a bit thicker', go with the SSO 0W-30..seems to be about the toughest SM PCMO out there...it'll handle anything you can throw at it!
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
For the first 3 or 4 intervals I would go with: Link to XLM 5W-20

Then I would go with the SSO 0W-30: Link to SSO

or

Link to ASM 0W-20

There isn't a huge difference in any of the three in viscosity but the 5W-20 will run the thinnest as it's group III and may shear a bit.



Hey Pablo, why do you say first 3 or 4 intervals? Do you mean the manufacturer's recommeded of 7500, or the one year? I have used the Series 2000 in the past on one year intervals. I plan on doing the same with the new Mitsu.

I was going to change over at 500 or 1000 miles to get through the break in period, then analyze the oil at 6 months, and change at one year.
 
I'm not 100% sure of the break in pattern of this engine, but a bit higher break in metals stay around for the first 10-20K miles on most all cars. Sure new Hondas (for example) and such have much lower levels than other cars, but they are still a tad higher. It seems when extended drains of 10K plus from say 5K to 10K (for example) the accumulations are higher than say 35K to 45K.

You choice. How many miles will you be doing in a year?
 
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