2008 Accord Rear rotor pulsing AGAIN

[Brybo86]

background
2008 Accord 2.4L EX-L

Duralast Gold CMAX pads on front and rear
Duralast el cheapo rotors on front and rear
I think I did the rear brakes last september maybe 10k miles on them
yes I removed the calipers with slide pins and greased with the recommended 3m silicone stuff
I also made sure there was no leftover buildup on hubs

Drove the car today for about an hour

I hear and feel pulsing when I touch the brakes at any speed over about 10mph
Not horrible pulsing but a change.

I think I need better rotors...? Specifically cryo treated? Painted caps would be nice but not necessary.

How about the Centric 120.40068 cryo treated and painted for about $30 a piece shipped?
Either from autoanything or amazon.

a couple pics

Is this going to be an improvement over the duralast rotors? or are they just painted but exactly the same metal>?

Centric front are about $10 more each and rears are about $6 more each than the duralast parts.

Im not actually sure if the 120.40068 part is cryo treated
Centric website doesn't list separate 120.40068 and 120.40068CRY but tirerack and carpartkings do $44 each...?

 

[Nick1994]

They have a 2 year warranty. Return them and get new ones.

 

[Wampahoofus]

I have to ask the dumb question:

How did you torque the lug nuts?

 

[gregk24]

I have these same rotors on my Accord, I had my local shop put them on about 5-6 months ago along with Akebono pads, both of which I purchased on Amazon for a decent price IMO. Seems my Accord has chronic braking pulsation syndrome

I would have the rotors and pads replaced, only to feel vibrations shortly after, resurfacing helped, but only for a while. This combo that I have on now seems to be doing well in the pulsation aspect, as well as good bite when braking. I would highly recommend this combo in your Accord. Make sure to clean off the pad material that gets stuck on the rotors every now and then by giving it a moderate to heavy stop when exiting the freeway. This may help if you do a lot of short tripping like me, where pad material gets built up on the rotors.

 

[Brybo86]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
They have a 2 year warranty. Return them and get new ones.


These were the replacements I changed them about a month before the warranty was up.

Originally Posted By: Wampahoofus
I have to ask the dumb question:

How did you torque the lug nuts?


using my torque wrench set to 80ft/lbs

maybe i will yank on the emergency brake while going down the highway ... should heat things up/clean them?

 

[The Critic]

Did you clean the hub flange and check the lateral runout?

I highly recommend this kit for cleaning the hub flange - it will solve a lot of runout problems (which eventually translates into DTV and pulsation):

http://www.amazon.com/3M-07547-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Cleaning/dp/B0013HHNPY

After cleaning the hub flange, when you install your new rotor - the final runout should be well under 0.002".

If you skip these steps, you run a high chance of the issue re-occuring.

Also, el-cheapo rotors tend to be machined to a much higher runout from the factory - I've seen 0.004"+.

 

[Brybo86]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Did you clean the hub flange and check the lateral runout?

I highly recommend this kit for cleaning the hub flange - it will solve a lot of runout problems (which eventually translates into DTV and pulsation):

http://www.amazon.com/3M-07547-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Cleaning/dp/B0013HHNPY

After cleaning the hub flange, when you install your new rotor - the final runout should be well under 0.002".

If you skip these steps, you run a high chance of the issue re-occuring.

Also, el-cheapo rotors tend to be machined to a much higher runout from the factory - I've seen 0.004"+.


I cleaned it as best i could with a steel brush until there wasn't any visible gunk.
I guess I didn't check hub runout but there isn't any play when grasping wheel.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86

I cleaned it as best i could with a steel brush until there wasn't any visible gunk.
I guess I didn't check hub runout but there isn't any play when grasping wheel.


It needs to be sparkling clean. You won't feel any play at the wheel.

Your best bet is to go to HF and get a dial indicator, and use it to measure the runout. Without doing this, you're simply going to be replacing parts over and over again without being sure of the problem.

There's a reason why Honda is requiring dealers to use on-car lathes - it pretty much eliminates the runout issue.

 

[Quest]

check for hardware (rear caliper guide pin to bore) binding, rusts, swollen rubber dust boots, etc. Also check for runouts on the hub assembly.

I'm assuming that the Honda you're talking about life it's life in Chicago, Il, right? so winter is brutal and they salt the roads, right?

Q.