Help Me pick out brake pads and rotors

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Dec 7, 2012
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No surprise. Brakes kinda su.....

Warrantied out all (4) calipers, (2) Duralast Gold front rotors, (2) Duralast Gold rear rotors, a set of Duralast Gold Ceramic front pads and Duralast Elite Ceramic copper-free rear pads.

This is on my 2005 Tahoe Z71.

Swapped out all of my brake components a week ago and the brakes aren't great. Pedal feel is awesome, but there is a noticeable vibration while braking. In full transparency, I did not (and usually don't) clean my hub surface with a 3M Roloc tool... the around the stud tool. Additionally, I am wondering if the hassle of the Autozone brakes -- IS the juice worth the squeeze?!?

Have been looking up brake parts and have come upon a plan of attack and curious on opinions of my parts choice.

I think this time around I am going to make sure and clean the hub faces with the 3M Roloc tool. Make sure they're cherry. Next up, I think I want to upgrade to NNBS brakes (07+ GM Full-Size). Which would be new calipers, rotors and pads. 12.9" versus my current 12". Direct bolt on. **** I'd consider the 19+ 4-piston caliper upgrade, but don't think they'll clear my 17" Z71 wheels.

Lastly, I am thinking go-around the whole truck with Raybestos Element3 rotors and pads. I have never used them, but I hear them mentioned on here before.

Is there any other pad rotor that I should consider?
 
On my 98 F150, I used the setup from powerstop (their drilled and slotted rotors and pads), night and day difference in stopping performance. I followed their break-in procedure but it still took about 500 miles of driving for them to really shine.
 
Another option while it is on my mind is the Wagner coated rotors with Wagner OEX pads. Apparently, they're geared towards trucks/suvs?
 
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On my 98 F150, I used the setup from powerstop (their drilled and slotted rotors and pads), night and day difference in stopping performance. I followed their break-in procedure but it still took about 500 miles of driving for them to really shine.
I've seen them and have always been apprehensive to run drilled and slotted. I have no real info on them besides seeing what other folks say online about them.
 
I've seen them and have always been apprehensive to run drilled and slotted. I have no real info on them besides seeing what other folks say online about them.
I had always been skeptical as well, I bought them based on testimony from my BIL who had put them on his lifter F150 that has 35s on it. My truck is stock height, but I have the last year that had drums in the rear, I REALLY needed better brakes for towing so I bought powerstop's front setup for my truck, they really do work.
 
Powerstop Geomet coated rotors are awesome :)

For pads, how is the truck used? Do you actually use it like a truck, or is it just a car? :unsure:

There are truck-specific HD pads such as Hawk LTS and EBC Extra Duty. Otherwise, Akebono, OE pads, or EBC Ultimax2/Blackstuff. And of course, the police pads, such as Powerstop Top Cop.

That said, there is nothing wrong with the Raybestos E3 pads and rotors, and they are a great price.

Rock Auto has OE new calipers for the 07+ Tahoe, but only for the front. For the rear, if GM still sells them, perhaps you can still get OE new calipers from the dealer or somewhere else.
 
Powerstop Geomet coated rotors are awesome :)

For pads, how is the truck used? Do you actually use it like a truck, or is it just a car? :unsure:

There are truck-specific HD pads such as Hawk LTS and EBC Extra Duty. Otherwise, Akebono, OE pads, or EBC Ultimax2/Blackstuff. And of course, the police pads, such as Powerstop Top Cop.

That said, there is nothing wrong with the Raybestos E3 pads and rotors, and they are a great price.

Rock Auto has OE new calipers for the 07+ Tahoe, but only for the front. For the rear, if GM still sells them, perhaps you can still get OE new calipers from the dealer or somewhere else.
I do tow with it but not all the time. Probably 15-20 times throughout summer/fall, less in the winter. I will most likely keep the Stock 05 rear calipers but only do the NNBS 07+ for the fronts
 
Did you do the proper break in for ceramic Pads? Two different break in procedures!!



The recommended procedure is: 1. For “normal” street service eight to ten moderate applications from 40-10 mph is sufficient. Allow for a 1/4 to 1/2 mile cool down between brake applications. 2. Allow the brakes to cool for at least 15 minutes either by parking the vehicle or continuing to drive at moderate speeds with minimal brake applications.
This burnishing procedure offers optimal performance, extended life, and minimizes noise.



The break in procedure is critical! If you do not break in the pad properly, it can result in brake pedal pulsation and thermal shock to the rotor causing stress cracks. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops at 40 mph to 5 mph without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops at 25 mph to 5 mph and let the rotors cool after each brake application. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
 
Well, I can vouch for stuff that I have used. I have used powerstop rotors with the Geo-met coating and as far as rust resistance, they are excellent. I literally put over 100k on the rotors before they started to get slightly peppered with rust dots. I would say that did its job well.

As far as pads, I have had good luck with the Raybestos Element3 hybrid pads. No dust, rarely a squeak and a pretty big increase in stopping power over average brake pads. I recently got Element3 coated rotors but of course they look great as they are new. Time will tell how the coating holds up.

But I don't think I have ever seen anything hold up to rust like the powerstop rotors did. Mine were drilled and slotted and I wouldn't do that again. But you can get those rotors coated but not drilled. Just be aware that they also sell non coated rotors so you don't make a mistake and get the wrong ones. Being in a salty area, I would say this should be your top priority. You also ABSOLUTELY have to clean off hubs till they are pristine when you do the brake job.
 
Another option while it is on my mind is the Wagner coated rotors with Wagner OEX pads. Apparently, they're geared towards trucks/suvs?
I've used OEX and Element3's on the wife's '16 Equinox several times. She's hard on brakes, 40k ish is her average wear life. No issues. Used them twice on my '11 Tahoe also no issues and tow duty on it.
 
Update on my results.

I decided to disassemble all of my brakes and return the rotors and pads to Autozone to warranty them out. Still under warranty and I figured doing the job over was worth it for new parts being free.

I cleaned every hub surface with a hub cleaning tool, nylon finger disc and wire wheel. Brake cleaned all residue and applied a light coat of great to the hub faces. I installed (4) new Duralast Gold rotors, Duralast Gold ceramic pads on the front and Duralast Elite ceramic pads on the rear. Re-lubed all slide pins with sil-glyde. Applied threadlocker to all bolts and torqued them to spec. Additionally made sure every wheel was torqued appropriately.

Truck now stops great and the brakes are smooth. No pulsation. I took it out for a ride and did a very nice bedding in process. All while giving them ample time to cool.

I am pleased.
 
I used Wagner ceramic pads, performance is good, but one of the pad backing shim came off, I jB welded it to the back of the pad and been working fine.
 
Personally, I would do the NBS brake upgrade upfront with EBC High Carbon Blade rotors all round. Bluestuff pads for the front, Yellowstuff Truck And SUV for the rear. This would be a good time to replace the brake hoses, maybe upgrade to braided hoses with DOT 5.1 fluid.
 
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