2007 Silverado V-8 - Tick , tick , tick
- Thread starter WyrTwister
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
You have an xW-30 or an xW-40, there is no such bloody grade as "10w-36".
Depending on the base oil blend, VII dosing and PPD's used, the W rating may or may not stay the same in this mix.
If it makes noise until it warms up, it's piston slap, which these engines are notorious for and nothing you are going to put in the crankcase is going to fix it.
I know there is no such thing as 10W-36 . It should be thicker than 30 and thinner than 40 .
I had not thought of piston slap until I started reading these replies . You are correct , oil will not fix piston slap .
Thanks ,
You have an xW-30 or an xW-40, there is no such bloody grade as "10w-36".
Depending on the base oil blend, VII dosing and PPD's used, the W rating may or may not stay the same in this mix.
If it makes noise until it warms up, it's piston slap, which these engines are notorious for and nothing you are going to put in the crankcase is going to fix it.
I know there is no such thing as 10W-36 . It should be thicker than 30 and thinner than 40 .
I had not thought of piston slap until I started reading these replies . You are correct , oil will not fix piston slap .
Thanks ,
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
The type of oil, weight of oil and the oil filter are all very important to the 2007 5.3 L with AFM. The lifters are known to get get stuck and eat up the cam lobes. One of the clues is a constant ticking. Do you have the AFM delete?
I have no idea if it has AFM . But if it does , I know no one has deleted it . This is a company truck & no one would pay out of pocket to delete it . And the boss would not .
Thanks ,
The type of oil, weight of oil and the oil filter are all very important to the 2007 5.3 L with AFM. The lifters are known to get get stuck and eat up the cam lobes. One of the clues is a constant ticking. Do you have the AFM delete?
I have no idea if it has AFM . But if it does , I know no one has deleted it . This is a company truck & no one would pay out of pocket to delete it . And the boss would not .
Thanks ,
Add some MMO to the oil.
Or change it over to Redline that apparently fixes all ticking including exhaust leaks.
Or change it over to Redline that apparently fixes all ticking including exhaust leaks.
Originally Posted by SeaJay
Originally Posted by CT8
Don't worry about it.
Agree, I'm old school. With that many miles an engine tick is way, way, way down the list of things I worry about.
Not really worried about . Truck belongs to my boss , not me . When and if it lays down and dies , I will drive something different . Or I may fully retire by then . I am working mornings , now .
Originally Posted by CT8
Don't worry about it.
Agree, I'm old school. With that many miles an engine tick is way, way, way down the list of things I worry about.
Not really worried about . Truck belongs to my boss , not me . When and if it lays down and dies , I will drive something different . Or I may fully retire by then . I am working mornings , now .
Last time I was chasing a mysterious ticking noise on a Chevy V8 (5.7L V8 in a 99 Suburban GMT400, I know, it's completely different) I had just had it in the shop a few days before for a tune up (I supplied all ACDelco parts)... anyway, I went back and said, any ideas why it's ticking? It just started happening. They said "it's a Chevy V8, put Lucas in the oil" (I should have known they were incompetent right then and there)... well, I put Rislone in (hey, I didn't know much at the time but in my mind I thought Lucas was too thick), and after that didn't help I just ignored it. A few weeks later I was doing some other work on the truck and had it running while I was poking around under the hood. I saw one of the plug wires vibrating. Only one. I thought that was strange so I took it off and took out the spark plug. The ceramic part of the spark plug was broken, and every time that cylinder would fire it would make a ticking noise! Replaced that one plug and no more ticking noise. Even with the broken plug, no misfires and it ran great! I suspect they dropped the spark plug and decided to install it anyway, or just weren't careful during installation. A few other situations later I no longer go to that shop, but my point is, just because it's a ticking noise doesn't mean it's the engine.
Last edited:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
You have an xW-30 or an xW-40, there is no such bloody grade as "10w-36".
Depending on the base oil blend, VII dosing and PPD's used, the W rating may or may not stay the same in this mix.
If it makes noise until it warms up, it's piston slap, which these engines are notorious for and nothing you are going to put in the crankcase is going to fix it.
I know there is no such thing as 10W-36 . It should be thicker than 30 and thinner than 40 .
I had not thought of piston slap until I started reading these replies . You are correct , oil will not fix piston slap .
Thanks ,
It'll either be a light 40 or a heavy 30. Examples of such real oils are Castrol "GC" 0w-30 and Castrol 0w-40
GM's LSx engines are notorious for piston slap and it behaves exactly as you described. It goes away once the pistons expand and fit better in the bores. Another possibility is the exhaust leak mentioned by another member, as it will behave in the same manner. If you can't find an exhaust leak, odds are it's piston slap, in which case just drive on.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
You have an xW-30 or an xW-40, there is no such bloody grade as "10w-36".
Depending on the base oil blend, VII dosing and PPD's used, the W rating may or may not stay the same in this mix.
If it makes noise until it warms up, it's piston slap, which these engines are notorious for and nothing you are going to put in the crankcase is going to fix it.
I know there is no such thing as 10W-36 . It should be thicker than 30 and thinner than 40 .
I had not thought of piston slap until I started reading these replies . You are correct , oil will not fix piston slap .
Thanks ,
It'll either be a light 40 or a heavy 30. Examples of such real oils are Castrol "GC" 0w-30 and Castrol 0w-40
GM's LSx engines are notorious for piston slap and it behaves exactly as you described. It goes away once the pistons expand and fit better in the bores. Another possibility is the exhaust leak mentioned by another member, as it will behave in the same manner. If you can't find an exhaust leak, odds are it's piston slap, in which case just drive on.
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
The type of oil, weight of oil and the oil filter are all very important to the 2007 5.3 L with AFM. The lifters are known to get get stuck and eat up the cam lobes. One of the clues is a constant ticking. Do you have the AFM delete?
I have no idea if it has AFM . But if it does , I know no one has deleted it . This is a company truck & no one would pay out of pocket to delete it . And the boss would not .
Thanks ,
Your gen GM v8 is sensitive to oil weight. The oil pump is not the strongest. So thin syn with a low(er) efficiency filter is preferred to prevent startup ticks. I gave up on the Ultra, it made my 6.0 tick at startup pretty bad. Oil quality is also important for AFM. When the lifters start failing the ticking will become constant. Video about AFM here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkly7XmMsOs. You could pop a exhaust manifold bold because the heavy exhaust has no flex pipe. But its less of an issue on the 5.3. Inspect and see if any are missing. Lastly, the injectors on these trucks do get noisy after a while. I've experimented with pretty much all the fuel injector/system cleaners. I had the best luck (so far) with 2 bottles of gumout multi-system tuneup in a full tank. Quieted one injector I thought for sure was a lifter.
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
The type of oil, weight of oil and the oil filter are all very important to the 2007 5.3 L with AFM. The lifters are known to get get stuck and eat up the cam lobes. One of the clues is a constant ticking. Do you have the AFM delete?
I have no idea if it has AFM . But if it does , I know no one has deleted it . This is a company truck & no one would pay out of pocket to delete it . And the boss would not .
Thanks ,
Your gen GM v8 is sensitive to oil weight. The oil pump is not the strongest. So thin syn with a low(er) efficiency filter is preferred to prevent startup ticks. I gave up on the Ultra, it made my 6.0 tick at startup pretty bad. Oil quality is also important for AFM. When the lifters start failing the ticking will become constant. Video about AFM here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkly7XmMsOs. You could pop a exhaust manifold bold because the heavy exhaust has no flex pipe. But its less of an issue on the 5.3. Inspect and see if any are missing. Lastly, the injectors on these trucks do get noisy after a while. I've experimented with pretty much all the fuel injector/system cleaners. I had the best luck (so far) with 2 bottles of gumout multi-system tuneup in a full tank. Quieted one injector I thought for sure was a lifter.
I have a 2008 Suburban with the motor and have random mornings of tick-tick-tick. I asked about it sometime ago. Here's that thread. Note 440Magnum's response.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ng-2008-gm-5-3-startup-noise#Post4546030
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ng-2008-gm-5-3-startup-noise#Post4546030
Originally Posted by HawkeyeScott
I have a 2008 Suburban with the motor and have random mornings of tick-tick-tick. I asked about it sometime ago. Here's that thread. Note 440Magnum's response.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ng-2008-gm-5-3-startup-noise#Post4546030
What weight and brand oil, what filter are you using?
I have a 2008 Suburban with the motor and have random mornings of tick-tick-tick. I asked about it sometime ago. Here's that thread. Note 440Magnum's response.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ng-2008-gm-5-3-startup-noise#Post4546030
What weight and brand oil, what filter are you using?
I've been using M1 HM 5W-30 or Napa Synthetic 5W-30 with Napa Gold or Bosch Distance Plus filters. I've had the tick more often in cold weather, but it can happen in the summer when it's 60 degrees in the morning. It always goes away within about five minutes, sometimes sooner. In the 21k I've owned the vehicle, the sounds of the tick, nor its frequency, have changed. My AFM is still turned on.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by HawkeyeScott
I've been using M1 HM 5W-30 or Napa Synthetic 5W-30 with Napa Gold or Bosch Distance Plus filters. I've had the tick more often in cold weather, but it can happen in the summer when it's 60 degrees in the morning. It always goes away within about five minutes, sometimes sooner. In the 21k I've owned the vehicle, the sounds of the tick, nor its frequency, have changed. My AFM is still turned on.
Both are high efficiency oil filters. Try a lower efficiency filter with better flow. I bet that startup rattle will be quieter, shorter duration, maybe disappear entirely like mine did when I switched to the Fram TG.
I've been using M1 HM 5W-30 or Napa Synthetic 5W-30 with Napa Gold or Bosch Distance Plus filters. I've had the tick more often in cold weather, but it can happen in the summer when it's 60 degrees in the morning. It always goes away within about five minutes, sometimes sooner. In the 21k I've owned the vehicle, the sounds of the tick, nor its frequency, have changed. My AFM is still turned on.
Both are high efficiency oil filters. Try a lower efficiency filter with better flow. I bet that startup rattle will be quieter, shorter duration, maybe disappear entirely like mine did when I switched to the Fram TG.
Read hemi tick thread, research hemi tick and lubrication, try oils that are ester/pao bases with high moly. It does work most the time, it does kill ticks. Could be lifters or piston skirts, but of course if it is manifolds no oil will help. Read and learn and listen to all the video's before and after posted by other members here. Funny how when many guys all say the same thing, how this works, how this forum still rejects it. Don't give up on the oil either, sometimes it takes 500 mile plus to silence the tick, heat time and pressure seam to be a factor in getting high moly oils to silence the tick. So far redline 5w30 seams to have the best shot at it. High viscosity, dense base oils, polar base oils, high AW/EP additives, and yet hated by all of the "oil" guys, lol. Tough crowd.
Also, you can drop some lubeguards biotech in there, we call it poor man's redline, very similar science, note it will boost phos 250ppm to your crank case 15 ounce size. There have been BITOGER's report in the hemi tick thread that does work for them. Again, silence to the oil guys why it is. Maybe they are pondering it some more. While they ponder, you have very little to loose to try this. It's either follow the science and choose a lubrication, or get all mechanical on it, or turn up the radio. Most of us have paired a RP filter to it, they have very good flow, thick loose media. peace, Burla
Also, you can drop some lubeguards biotech in there, we call it poor man's redline, very similar science, note it will boost phos 250ppm to your crank case 15 ounce size. There have been BITOGER's report in the hemi tick thread that does work for them. Again, silence to the oil guys why it is. Maybe they are pondering it some more. While they ponder, you have very little to loose to try this. It's either follow the science and choose a lubrication, or get all mechanical on it, or turn up the radio. Most of us have paired a RP filter to it, they have very good flow, thick loose media. peace, Burla
- Status
Similar threads
