Ford 4.6 Oil Quesions...and engine tick

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Originally Posted By: ADFD1
I've run Pure One filters in my 3.0L Ford with no start up noise at all. I tried the Motorcraft FL400, and everything is exactly the same. Maybe the 4.6L is more picky about filter choice? I think the 3.0L could run on just about anything.

AD


I'm pretty sure there aren't restrictions on FL400 applications. Apparently this issue only comes up on 'S' filters like the 4.6 uses.
 
I have the same engine in my 96 Merc Grand Marq. It now has 215,000 miles and is very quite and clean on M1 10-30, 10,000 mile OCIs. If you use dino change it often,3-5000 miles, because of timeing chain oiling. With M1 oils 10,000 mile OCis no problem. As far as the tick, After you change over to M1 it may go away in time. M1 oils clean very well.
 
Originally Posted By: ClearDark
However I could not hear the noise through the valve cover with the scope, but he still said it was lifter/rocker noise.


A lagging lash adjuster is very possible. If that's the case, it's a very easy and inexpensive fix.

Some 4.6s (mainly '99-'04 MYs) were known to have a "sewing machine tick" caused by by out of spec valve guides. The valve guide/cylinder head tick is always loudest in the wheel well, yet almost inaudible listening to the engine from the engine bay with the hood up. I've seen cylinder head tick 4.6s go 200,000+ miles though.

Quote:
I told him that I recently switched from 10W30 to 5W30 and he told me to switch back to using 10W30. However from everything I have read, using 10W30 in the Ford Modular 4.6 is a bad idea because of small oil passages and tighter tolerances in the engine.


That's totally false.

4.6s tolerate 5W-30 and 10W-30 just fine. These engines were OEM spec'd to run 5W-30 for almost 10 years, and they did great with it.

If it's ticking at full temperature, I doubt switching back to the 10W-30 will do anything to effect it. If it's ticking at start-up then I would try a different oil filter, preferably a Motorcraft FL-820S.

The only issue with using heavier oils in the Modulars is they can cause lash adjuster pump up at 7000+ rpm. This just isn't an issue for a factory SOHC 2V.

I would try another 5W-30 before going back to 10W-30, esp. in Maine. These engines seem to really like PP.
 
If the engine is speced for 5w-30, 10w-30 should be fine.

The previous owner may have used a heavier weight, perhaps a xW-40 to hide the noise.

Auto-RX the engine and see if it helps. If you intend to use the car for a long time and you do highway driving, go ahead and use synthetic and extend your OCI's. If you want to stick to 3k mile OCI's, than use a quality brand conventional such as Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, or Motorcraft (high recommended by Ford guys).
 
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Once again thanks for the replies. I don't see how going back to 10W30 will fix the noise as both are the same weight when hot.

I intend to stick with 5W30 oils. I currently am using Castrol GTX, but im going to drain it and probably go with Pennzoil or Motorcraft.

I do not want to extend my drain intervals. I like to keep it at 3-4,000 miles, as thats what im used to, and it's a good excuse to get under the car and look everything over real well. But I suppose I could extend it to 5,000 if I run synthetic.

The ticking happens all the time, hot or cold. I can hear it tick faster on a WOT run, but once it shifts to second gear, I don't hear it again.

The filter I am currently using is a Motorcraft FL-820S, I bought a dozen of them when I did my first oil change.

I intend to drain the oil tomorrow and add some fresh oil. I am still wrestling with the idea of synthetic or dino... im not 100% sure what route I want to take. Im thinking I can try synthetic and see if it quiets the noise. If it doesn't I can always switch back to dino oils. I guess price will be the deciding factor, and how I feel when I go to buy the stuff tomorrow. I may get a Motorcraft semi synthetic blend instead and try my luck. We'll see tomorrow I guess.
 
Can you get a video of the tick? If you are hearing it at WOT and not just at idle, and it's really the tick you are hearing at WOT and not detonation, you might have a problem creeping up.
 
I can try and record a video with my digi cam.

At an idle, it ticks like my old car with some lifter noise.

If you rev it up, it disappears. I can't hear it inside the car.

However, when I put it to the floor, I can hear something that sounds like the tick, but faster, then once it shifts to 2nd, it disppears. Anyhow, I will try and get a video of it. I plan to put it on ramps and see if I can hear the ticking underneath of it tomorrow.

I put about 8 gallons of premium fuel in it, thinking it might be detnation, but it didn't help. What could the "more serious" problem be?
 
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Originally Posted By: ClearDark
I am still wrestling with the idea of synthetic or dino... im not 100% sure what route I want to take.


Overkill, one of the group members, has terrific photos of his Lincoln Town Car with the valve cover off. The engine is so clean it looks new, attributed to the religious use of synthetic Mobil 1. Since you are on the fence you may as well give it a try. If the ticking is the result of any deposit or sludge then synthetic has the best chance of cleaning it up. Do yourself a favor don't change it till you see his photos.
 
Art, where can I find his photos? I would be very interested to see.

Im thinking I may try some Motorcraft 5W30 fully synthetic oil and see what happens. If it solves the ticking, I will extend my drain intervals. I belive the local Ford Stealership has fully synthetic 5w30 for 3.69 / qt.
 
Run it down till it's almost empty. Then fill it with $20 worth of premium. If the faster ticking you mention goes away at WOT then that part is detonation. These cars a very prone to pinging.
 
Originally Posted By: ClearDark
What could the "more serious" problem be?


I'm not trying to make you paranoid, I swear.
crazy2.gif
It's probably fine.
grin2.gif


But if "the tick" is still audible at WOT, and it's not detonation/pinging, then it could be a worn wrist pin bushing or a cracked piston skirt, both of which will get progressively worse over time.

Have you thrown a tune up at this car? New fuel filter/PCV valve/spark plugs/plug wires/clean MAF elements? If you are hearing some light pinging at WOT, that will probably take care of it.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Here is the under valve cover photos of one of his other cars:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1160087&fpart=1

I can't find the Lincoln but this is just as good for reference.



These are the Lincoln pictures.


No, those are my Capri pics. Same mileage though.

To the OP:

I'm currently running 5w40 in my 5.4L
grin2.gif


Try some M1 5w20, it cleaned a LOT out of my engine on my first OCI with it in the Expedition.......
 
Try taking off the serpentine belt. I had a ticking noise in my Ranger and it turned out to be a bad section on the serpentine belt. Belt tensioners can do the same thing...

Just a few ideas...

later,
b
 
I had a nasty rattle in my engine a while back that I thought was valvetrain. It was actually my tensioner pulley flopping around on its bearing at idle.
 
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