2007 Poll - Who's Running 10W-30?

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10w30 Rotella T HDEO in the following
2006 23 HP ZT mower
1997 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1995 1.9 Ford Escort
1994 7.4 (454) Class A motorhome
5.5 KW Onan generator in above motorhome.
 
FormulaShell 10w30
2001 Mazda 626

5w30 good up to 98*F, 10w30 good down to -13*F, according to the owners manual, so i can use either year-round. I get a little more valve train noise with 5w30 after the car is warm, but my car has solid lifters so it may be solid lifters like a little more cushion.

I think i'm due for a valve check soon, so that may allow me to go back to 5w30 or even try 5w20.
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10w30 year round in my '93 2.0L MX6 - its gotten me to 215k miles so far, w/o any problems.

Oil has been M1, ML Syn, PP, and now Chevron and Pennzoil dino for ARX. I can't even find 5w30 when I'm buying the rebate oils around here.
 
Greetings Titan:

"You mean, "recommended" grade, right? Some 5-30's hold viscocity better than some 10-30's...a good 5-30 might be a better choice, unless you have almost no cool starts."

No, its "required," per 2006 manual. According to Chrysler, 5W-30 is to be used only to facilitate cold weather start-ups. We've had a couple of BITOG threads on this. Yes, I agree the newer 5W-30s might be a better choice, but not per Chrysler.
 
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Valvoline Premium Conventional 10w-30.
2005 Ford Focus
1992 Nissan Sentra(substitute 1 bottle 15w-40)




THe Focus engines i've listend to seem to have pretty loud valve train noise. Just curious, does 10w30 quieten this down any for you?

I ask because my mazda has solid valves and can get rather clackity on 5w30...
 
I use 10W30 ML syn in my S2000. I've been impressed with 0W30 GC in my G35 though (no UOA yet). I know that there are no more green elves alive anymore. But if it looks like the gold elves might live awhile longer, I'm tempted to try GC in the Honda.
 
2.3L turbocharged mazda, reccomended weight of 5-30 but ive got enough 10-30 in havoline syn. and PP to last 40,000 miles. im in california too so there isn't any real hard colds.
 
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Greetings Titan:

"You mean, "recommended" grade, right? Some 5-30's hold viscocity better than some 10-30's...a good 5-30 might be a better choice, unless you have almost no cool starts."

No, its "required," per 2006 manual. According to Chrysler, 5W-30 is to be used only to facilitate cold weather start-ups. We've had a couple of BITOG threads on this. Yes, I agree the newer 5W-30s might be a better choice, but not per Chrysler.




Wow. I had no idea. You can tell I don't follow the Chrysler threads! Also, that requirement makes me wonder what the Chrysler engineers were thinking (or smoking!). Thanks for the info....
 
Iam using Castrol GTX 10w30 and Ive Used Castrol GTX Startup 10w30 in my 2006 Dodge Ram(specs recommend 5w20) but its a 2500 and doesnt have the MDS, plus I live in Florida. 9000 miles and it sounds super smooth, no dreaded Hemi tick, which is what Iam afraid of. My wifes car is a 2002 Lincoln with the 4.6 and Ive Tried 5w20,5w30 and 10w30 and realy didnt see or hear a difference. I like a thicker oil and consider 10w30 as sort of a one shoe fits all oil. I have lived in Florida for only 4 years and spent my other years in Pennsylvania mountains and we seldom kept cars or trucks inside and have never had oil problems with 10w30 or 15w40 for that matter, fuel problems, yes, and we are talking way below 0. I think the cold oil/pumpability debate is way overrated. By the way how many of you remember the electric dipsticks you could plug in to keep your oil warm and assist in cold weather starts?
 
And this thread completely proves why companies are still producing 10w-30. It's not obsolete yet.
 
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I use 10W30 ML syn in my S2000. I've been impressed with 0W30 GC in my G35 though (no UOA yet). I know that there are no more green elves alive anymore. But if it looks like the gold elves might live awhile longer, I'm tempted to try GC in the Honda.


 
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