2003 VW Passat W8 wagon 107.6K/Liquimoly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 + Ceratec 4.9K OCI

TiGeo

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My first UOA/second oil change (first DIY!) on my beloved W8 wagon since buying. A few notes.:

This car has a flippin' 9 qt capacity and as such, that's 2x bottles of Ceratec. This is a bit more moly/boron that I saw with 1 bottle in my 6 qt Golf. Nice single digit metals - check. Flashpoint/drop in viscosity - seems that all my VWs do it even the non-turbo ones! That SiO2. I had several repairs done including my oil pan which has a ton of sealer and is the most likely contributor here as BS noted (I didn't tell them I did that). In the end, this thing is the hottest under-hood temp car I've owned, it's unreal and the open K&N I rigged on there for noise/looks ended up not fitting as well as I would have liked plus the heat shield I wanted to fab never happened so I put the closed/OE intake back on with a drop-in K&N panel filter. Nobody makes a proper after-market intake for this thing. I run K&Ns in all my cars and all have v. low/single digit SiO2 numbers including the open intake on my Sportwagen. I'll see how it looks next change - I don't think this was a filtration issue. The current fill that replaced this was 8 qts of the same LM LLHT 5W40 with 2 cans of MoS2 and 2 cans of Motor Oil Saver. Also used 2 cans of their Engine Flush prior to the change (but I pulled this sample before). Yeah, I'm a LM fanboi/additive whore..hahahaha

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This is all well and good but implying these additives is the reason for or contributing to a good report is questionable at best.
Where is the baseline (multiple UOA's to establish a trend) without any additives using a readily available high quality oil like Mobil 1 0w40 Esp xw30, Castrol 0w40, etc with no flushes, and multiple bottles of additives.
With that much oil capacity and such short OCI I wouldn't be surprised if it was not as good or even better.
 
Other than being a whore is there a reason to use the additives? Is this engine known to eat parts that you're trying to protect or whatever?
I like how you operate. The W8 is a mythical beast and has a timing chain system that is somewhat fragile and when it goes, it's on the back, so you yank the engine. A little extra anti-friction is a good thing here is all.
 
This is all well and good but implying these additives is the reason for or contributing to a good report is questionable at best.
Where is the baseline (multiple UOA's to establish a trend) without any additives using a readily available high quality oil like Mobil 1 0w40 Esp xw30, Castrol 0w40, etc with no flushes, and multiple bottles of additives.
With that much oil capacity and such short OCI I wouldn't be surprised if it was not as good or even better.
I did not imply that the Ceratec is the reason for the good report - you are reading into things. Where did I imply that...b/c I said single digit metals? Seriously? Yes, I would get a good report with likely any of the commonly available Euro oils with a ~5K OCI but better? I've been doing the rounds of all the common Euro oils on my Sportwagen to do some testing and see about zero difference using them vs. the LM products and in fact saw the most viscosity drop over a change with the M1 0W40. This car came to me with a fresh M1 0W40 oil change before dropping the pan/all the work I had done. This car was a single owner for most of it's life and I have some records that indicate it was likely serviced regularly but with what I have no idea - probably bulk 5W30 would be my guess or M1 0W40 etc.
 
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TIGeo, I'm glad you have that car. You appreciate its uniqueness and treat it with the respect it deserves. Props to you!

Scott

PS The sound if that thing turns heads.
Thanks slo! It's a great car, drove it 1K miles a few weeks ago down to GA from VA for a VW event. Purs right along, cold AC, it's a highway beast!
 
Goof on my part - should be a 4.2K interval, not 4.9 - that was my tire rotation interval...hahahahahaah. Opps/sorry.
 
Great unique car. But that to be an expensive oil change!
The LM kit was about $75 from FCP Euro. I use their lifetime replacement guarantee on consumables for all my VWs (3) so next change, I order a new kit and return this one and get a full refund for it. I use Paypal so I can also then get a refund for the return shipping. Free going forward. Best deal out there and beats rebates any day (if this oil or oils they carry are acceptable to you - I get not everyone uses these products) and there are some threads I've posted on how this works etc. In the end, it's 1-2x a year change so not a huge expense anyway.
 
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I did not imply that the Ceratec is the reason for the good report - you are reading into things. Where did I imply that...b/c I said single digit metals? Seriously? Yes, I would get a good report with likely any of the commonly available Euro oils with a ~5K OCI but better? I've been doing the rounds of all the common Euro oils on my Sportwagen to do some testing and see about zero difference using them vs. the LM products and in fact saw the most viscosity drop over a change with the M1 0W40. This car came to me with a fresh M1 0W40 oil change before dropping the pan/all the work I had done. This car was a single owner for most of it's life and I have some records that indicate it was likely serviced regularly but with what I have no idea - probably bulk 5W30 would be my guess or M1 0W40 etc.
I question if all these additives are helping the chain tensioner and guides one bit. I seriously doubt it as AW additives do nothing for plastic deterioration due to heat, they do nothing for the V8 which are also prone to chain system failure.
 
I question if all these additives are helping the chain tensioner and guides one bit. I seriously doubt it as AW additives do nothing for plastic deterioration due to heat, they do nothing for the V8 which are also prone to chain system failure.
The guides are plastic so yes, not sure there but the whole system is lubrication-driven so to me - why not/not going to hurt.
 
At first glance, that looks like Amsoil, they use similar amounts of moly/boron.
I wonder how an straight run of Amsoil SS 0W-40 would compare?
 
At first glance, that looks like Amsoil, they use similar amounts of moly/boron.
I wonder how an straight run of Amsoil SS 0W-40 would compare?
This oil without the Ceratec has zero for both.
 
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