2002 Acura TL does this sound like the main relay is bad?

[mrbreezeet1]

Neighbor has a 2002 Acura TL sometimes won't start. He found that if he bangs on the steering wheel, he can get it to start, {usually}
seems like it's getting worse though. Does that sound like the main relay?
Thanks guys!

 

[mclasser]

That or maybe the ignition switch is bad.

 

[TomYoung]

It sounds like someone will need to pull the steering column out. Maybe it is only a loose wire. As long as the trans is is good order, these things are tanks.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Main relay was the problem on a 1998 Accord LX 4 banger. 1st I replaced the distributor, then the ignition switch and finally the main relay. When I pulled the relay and inspected the printet circuit board, I could see the crack in the solder.

 

[eljefino]

Had that happen twice with the "fuel injection" relay in my Volvos. Reflowed the solder, free fix.

It's bad with this no-lead solder they replaced the good stuff with.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

We'll pull the relay and see if I can see anything!
Thanks guys!

 

[Nukeman7]

This video is for an Acura MDX; but it uses the same main PGM-FI relay.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

This video is for an Acura MDX; but it uses the same main PGM-FI relay.

Thanks! I'm in the garage right now on my phone I'll have to watch it on my PC when I get back upstairs!

 

[Owen Lucas]

This type of failure is so hard to spot by a layperson such as my self. I would have not even noticed it unless you pointed it out. I had an HVAC tech show my the same issue with a relay solder joint on my furnace control board. The only way I would be able to see if by chance I wiggled the relay and even then you'd think there would be enough surface area for continuity.

 

[JeffKeryk]

This type of failure is so hard to spot by a layperson such as my self. I would have not even noticed it unless you pointed it out. I had an HVAC tech show my the same issue with a relay solder joint on my furnace control board. The only way I would be able to see if by chance I wiggled the relay and even then you'd think there would be enough surface area for continuity.

The soldered connection typically fails when the vehicle is hot, due to expansion. It cools down and feeds the injectors normally.
I was beside myself on this fix. I had given the Accord to a single mom friend who lives near Sacremento, 140 miles from me. I tried one fix at a time, based on Youtube and other advice. All along it was the main relay. It is hard to diagnose because the problem is intermittent. My guess is a few of the real mechanics on this forum would have diagnosed and solved the stalling right off the bat, but I am a cheapskate and a hard head.

@Nukeman7 video in post #7 is outstanding. The relay and pc board look identical to mine. It really is an easy fix.

 

[eljefino]

If you have an old film SLR camera in your closet its "normal" 50mm lens makes an amazing magnifying glass. Great for detailed stuff like this.

 

[paulo57509]

This is (was? - there's not a lot of them around anymore) a chronic issue with G1 Legends. When the Main Relay is on the way out, there's a short delay when turning the key to start and the engine cranking; at least in my experience.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I don't know how good I am at soldering I'm okay I guess do you all think I can just re melt the solder.
Because one article said that you should use one of those desoldering tools to remove the old solder and re-solder it I don't know.
Edit.......
I do not have a desoldering tool.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

If you have an old film SLR camera in your closet its "normal" 50mm lens makes an amazing magnifying glass. Great for detailed stuff like this.

No. I don't have one of those.

 

[dishdude]

I don't know how good I am at soldering I'm okay I guess do you all think I can just re melt the solder.
Because one article said that you should use one of those desoldering tools to remove the old solder and re-solder it I don't know.
Edit.......
I do not have a desoldering tool.

You don't need to desolder it, just get what's there hot and add a little fresh solder. Super easy even if you rarely solder anything.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

You don't need to desolder it, just get what's there hot and add a little fresh solder. Super easy even if you rarely solder anything.

Great. Thanks

 

[Nukeman7]

If you have an old film SLR camera in your closet its "normal" 50mm lens makes an amazing magnifying glass. Great for detailed stuff like this.

You can also take a photo of the back of the relay board with your smartphone and enlarge the picture to see the fine details such as the micro cracks in the cold solder joints.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

You can also take a photo of the back of the relay board with your smartphone and enlarge the picture to see the fine details such as the micro cracks in the cold solder joints.

Good idea !

 

[Nukeman7]

A few more hints:

(1) The most difficult part of replacing the main relay is actually detaching it from the metal mounting bracket under the dash. It will be more difficult than what is suggested at 2 min., 25 secs. in the video. I suggest sliding a very thin flat blade screwdriver between the relay housing and the flat metal bracket to release the plastic nub out of the crevice in the bracket before attempting to slide it out. Also, when you install the new (or repaired) relay, don't remount it on the bracket until you take it for a test drive or two.

(2) If you want to remove some of the old solder without a de-soldering tool, you can make your own de-soldering braid to wick up the molten solder by peeling back the insulation on a scrap piece of multi-strand copper wire (e.g., 16 -18 gauge lamp cord).

 

[JeffKeryk]

A few more hints:

(1) The most difficult part of replacing the main relay is actually detaching it from the metal mounting bracket under the dash. It will be more difficult than what is suggested at 2 min., 25 secs. in the video. I suggest sliding a very thin flat blade screwdriver between the relay housing and the flat metal bracket to release the plastic nub out of the crevice in the bracket before attempting to slide it out. Also, when you install the new (or repaired) relay, don't remount it on the bracket until you take it for a test drive or two.

(2) If you want to remove some of the old solder without a de-soldering tool, you can make your own de-soldering braid to wick up the molten solder by peeling back the insulation on a scrap piece of multi-strand copper wire (e.g., 16 -18 gauge lamp cord).

Spot on. I bent the bracket removing the relay housing and tie strapped the new one in.