Duramax LML possible head gasket and piston issues

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I am potentially dealing with a head gasket and cracked piston issue on my LML Duramax in the middle of a cross-country trip with my fifth wheel trailer.

We are now at our longest stop of our trip in Halifax. The first full day here I spent the day on the phone trying to find someone to look at the truck.

His assessment is the worst news of any I have had via email or over the phone, and he's pointed out a few things that leads him to believe what he does about what's wrong with the truck:

- Coolant surge tank, he released the pressure, and then tightened it. The return line had bubbling in the tank, which he says indicates an exhaust leak in. I did not have the seemingly common hard upper rad hose after sitting overnight, common when the failure of the head gasket lets pressure into the cooling system.

- At idle, he removed the oil fill cap, and plenty of blowby came out, with a very clear and steady smoke stream, though not what I would call heavy.

I took my oldest son with me to the shop. Neither of us got a bad feeling. In one of the outer suburbs, and the guys seemed friendly, joked lots, and shared quite willingly a lot of the different things they've seen on the three brands of diesel 3/4 and 1 tons, and all seem to jive with what I know about the different trucks.

That said, a $15k repair bill has me wanting to be extremely cautious.

Here's more of a back story on the truck, and on the events that lead me to finding out just how bad of a problem I now have.

I'm the second owner, and I bought the 2013 truck in 2017. It had 160,000 km. I changed all fluids, except the coolant which had at that time, recently been done. I understood at the time that the DEF system was deleted. The truck has done two long haul road trips prior to this one with our over 10,000 pound dry fifth wheel, and many other shorer trips with it, not to mention the driving done hauling all sorts of things around, and just general driving around without a load when unhitched on a trip, or as a last resort second vehicle in town. In the entire time since I bought it, to before leaving on the trip, the coolant level dropped once around 2018 just enough to trigger the low coolant warning, and I topped it up, without any coolant issue since. My wife insists before the trip she told me there was a leak, but I also see the AC condenser drain is by the right wheel well, and I also had to change a glow plug and the fuel filter and both batteries before this trip. Not any sign that coolant was leaking then.

We started our trek from Edmonton hauling our fifth wheel (a small to mid size one in Alberta, though seemingly a rare behemoth once we hit Ontario). There were no issues, until just a while ago. As we were making our way from Quebec to New Brunswick, the coolant light came on after I had to stop to let one of my kids use the bathroom and I had the truck idling while everyone else also decided they needed to go. As I barely put it into drive and before taking my foot off the brake, the low coolant light came on. I could only get bottled water from that gas station, so topped it off and went to our next stop. The level was low again when we reached the stop and I checked after it cooled down, but attributed it to not being able to properly fill a warm cooling system. From this point on, I had the light come on several times (and other times had to top off without the light on), and I began to suspect issues. But no signs of oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil, so it was a head scratcher to me, until I noticed while we are on Prince Edward Island on a day trip, that coolant was indeed coming out the right wheel well, and was also in many spots near the surge tank.

I began to seriously look further, and learned that a head gasket failure may not be evident from what I was used to as the symptoms, and that pressure could leak. I had figured out by this point the coolant was coming out of the overflow, which was supposed to be a symptom along with a firm upper rad hose after sitting overnight. And yet, the rad hose wasn't hard. So more head scratching, and other possibilities:

- EGR valve might be bad
- thermostats might be bad
- even the surge tank may not be separating the two sides properly, or that the cap isn't sealing

So, over a weekend, in a remote island with sparse population and virtually nothing open on Sunday, we needed to make it on to our current stop in Halifax, where I figured we would have some luck in getting it fixed.

I hooked up my OBD reader for the drive to monitor the real temperatures, which remained usually between 80C and 90C, and briefly hit a peak of 100C on a very long climb at freeway speeds over 100 km/h, which then dropped quickly on the descent to the 80 to 90 range again.

I then learned this is what would be expected on the engine, so that ruled out anything with the thermostat. I also found the diesel shops around here were all booked up, though I managed to find one guy who had an opening, though he had someone else he thought might come in later in the week.

Over the phone, before seeing me, he said his experience is that 95% of the Duramaxes he sees for head gaskets also have hairline piston cracks.

And so that's where I am now. I've been checking in with a mechanic friend back home who also has Duramaxes, and while he was initially skeptical, he looked into the LML and learned of the unusual lip on the LML pistons to trap in heat, which was revised by Mahle (the OEM supplier) in an aftermarket replacement version. So his skepticism faded somewhat once he found that.

Would love to hear from others what the take is on this. I gave him the go ahead to order parts this evening (which he will do tomorrow), and I bring the truck in Wednesday.
 
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Sorry about your troubles, that's no fun.

Do you know if the truck is putting out stock power?
 
Sorry about your troubles, that's no fun.

Do you know if the truck is putting out stock power?
As far as I know, the truck is putting out stock power, or if tuned, only very slightly so. Just the DEF system delete and improper EGR delete that left the stock bypass valves in place instead of using backer plates.
 
interesting.

Based on what you have written it sounds reasonable.

It seems to me a diesel piston with a hairline crack would become a diesel piston split in half in short order... perhaps though as you elude to this is a crack in a less critical area.

15,000.00 even CAD seems a substantial repair bill, at current labor prices and considering condition of other items its often more cost effective to replace an engine than to start replacing pistons and rings... I would have this discussion personally, you do not want to find out later that for 18,000.00 a complete new engine could be installed. Perhaps this is not true of diesels or in Canada though.
 
This is precisely why my last two 3500HD Silverado's have had gas engines.
My 2005 LLY Duramax had similar symptoms. When heat soaked and wile towing it would push coolant out. Without a load just running around town it was fine. Never saw any coolant in the oil either. Both head gaskets were blown on the reamost cylinders in a mirror image of each other.
 
This is precisely why my last two 3500HD Silverado's have had gas engines.
My 2005 LLY Duramax had similar symptoms. When heat soaked and wile towing it would push coolant out. Without a load just running around town it was fine. Never saw any coolant in the oil either. Both head gaskets were blown on the reamost cylinders in a mirror image of each other.
How many miles?

And yes at $15K I’d get a quote for a whole reman engine. Otherwise, top up coolant and trade in the truck on a gasser because apparently modern diesels are all junk. They really are. It’s sad :(
 
Looks like a GM motor is about 15,000 us, the reman was slightly over 10 but shows currently unnavailable. Of course this would likely have the same pistons as original if that's legitimately an issue...
 
How many miles?

And yes at $15K I’d get a quote for a whole reman engine. Otherwise, top up coolant and trade in the truck on a gasser because apparently modern diesels are all junk. They really are. It’s sad :(
Of course it was just over 100k when the symptoms started.
I never liked the 6.0 gas in an HD truck but at the time I could have bought a new GM crate 6.0 gas for less than what the head gaskets cost on my LLY.
 
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Head gaskets are very common on the duramax. Is cooling system pressure spiking on long climbs or on acceleration? Is it “puking” out of the bottle? Or just coolant loss?

Piston cracks are usually a result of prolonged high EGTs which is usually associated with heavy towing. Do you have EGT gauges?

Both don’t seem out of the realm of possibility, but I would expect poor running and/or a rythmetic type puff from the CCV system and oil fill cap with a fair amount of pressure behind it, not a steady stream.

To me it sounds more of just a cooling system issue with a strong possibility of head gasket failure (providing no leaks are found with pressure test). The best way to indicate a combustion gas leak into cooling system is to drive it with a pressure gauge on the truck routed into the cab. It’s cut and dry.

Keep in mind that the EGR cooler is also a possible source for this.
 
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How many miles?

And yes at $15K I’d get a quote for a whole reman engine. Otherwise, top up coolant and trade in the truck on a gasser because apparently modern diesels are all junk. They really are. It’s sad :(
Sounds like this is a case of one of those out of town rip off schemes
 
Otherwise, top up coolant and trade in the truck on a gasser because apparently modern diesels are all junk. They really are. :(

His 5th wheel trailer is over 10k lbs dry, not the best fit for a gas truck. It will tow it but it's going to work pretty hard. The 7.3 Godzilla Ford will be mentioned but it's only got 11 lb/ft more torque and 29 more hp than the GM 6.6 gas.
 
How many miles?

And yes at $15K I’d get a quote for a whole reman engine. Otherwise, top up coolant and trade in the truck on a gasser because apparently modern diesels are all junk. They really are. It’s sad :(
Can you pull an engine from a wrecked vehicle?
 
His 5th wheel trailer is over 10k lbs dry, not the best fit for a gas truck. It will tow it but it's going to work pretty hard. The 7.3 Godzilla Ford will be mentioned but it's only got 11 lb/ft more torque and 29 more hp than the GM 6.6 gas.

Pretty sure the 6.6 would tow that load drama free, just using higher RPMs than a diesel does. The gasser is rated to tow 17,000 pounds 5w/goose neck.

 
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but what's the curve look like?
The 7.3 and 6.6 have very similar torque curves. Impressive but nothing pulls like a diesel.
Pretty sure the 6.6 would tow that load drama free, just using higher RPMs than a diesel is used to. The gasser is rated to tow 17,000 pounds 5w/goose neck.
My BIL tows a 10k 5th wheel up and down the east coast with a 6.6 gas and it spends a lot of time above 4k and time at 5k in hills. It works pretty hard.
 
Diesel will tow at low rpm until it blows. Modern diesels are mostly not reliable. Get a gasser. Let it spin. 4k will not hurt it a bit. It will tow, if you let it spin. $10-15k buys a LOT of gas.
 
My son is a diesel mechanic. 15k for what would essentially be a rebuild if the pistons are cracked is in the ballpark. Blown head gaskets I would guess at around 4k. Diesels are very expensive to repair. He called me over to his shop to see a Ram 1500 EcoDiesel turbocharger replacement. 280000 miles on the truck. Had to pull the cab to get at it. The cross pipes on the exhaust were cracked and had to be replaced. 5k on that job.
 
I would go for a replacement engine of some type as in used or new or reman. A head gasket is one thing but a cracked piston could potentially be a much bigger deal. Has the cylinder wall been damaged? Going to just replace the cracked piston? One piston will then have better compression I assume. Bore all the cylinders and replace all the pistons?

Is the OP just going live in the camper until the work is complete. Weeks I assume.

Good luck.
 
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