$2000 truck in 2022

Does it have a steel driveshaft?

My dad's 1990 C1500 5MT came with a fiberglass driveshaft that had to be replaced because of bad vibrations.. but that was like 10yrs down the road. A shop made a steel replacement for us at that point. This may have been just a 5spd MT thing..
 
That is one of the most durable trucks from one of the most durable eras for vehicles. I would have probably paid twice that if the rust isn't bad and I'm a cheapskate.
 
Does it have a steel driveshaft?

My dad's 1990 C1500 5MT came with a fiberglass driveshaft that had to be replaced because of bad vibrations.. but that was like 10yrs down the road. A shop made a steel replacement for us at that point. This may have been just a 5spd MT thing..
I'll double check, but I believe it was steel. I do remember seeing some surface rust underneath, just can't remember if driveshaft had it too.
 
Confirmed: It IS a steel driveshaft.
In other news: 1500+ miles later the oil is still at the same level on the dipstick as it was when I filled it up on the initial oil change. Current frankenbrew is 50/50 mix of Idemitsu 0w20+Redline Racing 50wt (which Redline claims to be 15w50). Plan to change it soon, as Redline Racing isn't known for good cleaning abilities. I guess that applies to any racing oil. But so far so good, oil pressure barely dropped below 30psi only handful of times, and only after 2-3hr highway runs in this 85-100 degree weather. After this frankenbrew is finished - I'm switching to whatever is on sale and meets Porsche A40.
 
Looking at the pics again you've got the wavy drop in bedliner, might want to look under that, it can trap moisture and cause problems.

Unfortunately the larger diameter tires aren't going to do you any favors accelerating or going uphill, 9% is a pretty big difference. But they look good. (y)
 
Looking at the pics again you've got the wavy drop in bedliner, might want to look under that, it can trap moisture and cause problems.

Unfortunately the larger diameter tires aren't going to do you any favors accelerating or going uphill, 9% is a pretty big difference. But they look good. (y)
Checked under, no rust holes. Scratched up bed, but not even much of surface rust under there. Looks surprisingly good. Current plan is to get rid of that plastic, sand the bed down, and Raptor Line it. I had good luck with Raptor Bed liner in the past (bedliner paint job on a 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe), so I may be using it here too. Just for its actual intended purpose this time.

So far the 9% don't hurt that bad. If anything - the bigger sized wheels allow the truck to coast for longer. Since I drive like a grandpa - this newly acquired coasting capability definitely gets exploited.
 
Baby poop brown!

Whoever optioned that bad larry out picked the weakest motor and strongest tranny, as though he expected it to be operated by a real crew of knuckleheads.

Those wheels do look different, I wouldn't have made the jeep connection, LOL. They look like late 80s Camaro rims but just bigger.
 
Awesome. Inexpensive, still has good looks, parts availability is amazing and cheap, not sure how you can loose on this! Plus it is done depreciating so it will be an asset from here forward. I say heck of a deal!
Looked around on craigslist, and after seeing those prices I agree with you. There was one like mine, without any clearcoat, with rusted roof/hood, and listed for $2500 with a blown transmission... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Baby poop brown!

Whoever optioned that bad larry out picked the weakest motor and strongest tranny, as though he expected it to be operated by a real crew of knuckleheads.

Those wheels do look different, I wouldn't have made the jeep connection, LOL. They look like late 80s Camaro rims but just bigger.
Hope the motor & tranny combo holds up for many years to come! (...and hope these fuel prices never force me into a Prius with a trailer...)

As far as Jeep wheels - they have the same 5x5 bolt pattern as this GMC. But the center hub bore turned out to be too big on the truck for that wheel. Found a set of 1.5" non-hub-centric wheel spacers, and that took care of it.. Wheels aren't sticking out past the fender line, and no rubbing issues on turns or bad country roads with deep ruts. Pretty happy with how well that worked out.
 
Checked under, no rust holes. Scratched up bed, but not even much of surface rust under there. Looks surprisingly good. Current plan is to get rid of that plastic, sand the bed down, and Raptor Line it. I had good luck with Raptor Bed liner in the past (bedliner paint job on a 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe), so I may be using it here too. Just for its actual intended purpose this time.

So far the 9% don't hurt that bad. If anything - the bigger sized wheels allow the truck to coast for longer. Since I drive like a grandpa - this newly acquired coasting capability definitely gets exploited.
You may know this but worth mentioning, make sure the drain holes are not plugged in the front of the bed. Mine were plugged up on my Sierra when I took ownership.
 
Looked around on craigslist, and after seeing those prices I agree with you. There was one like mine, without any clearcoat, with rusted roof/hood, and listed for $2500 with a blown transmission... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


Hope the motor & tranny combo holds up for many years to come! (...and hope these fuel prices never force me into a Prius with a trailer...)

As far as Jeep wheels - they have the same 5x5 bolt pattern as this GMC. But the center hub bore turned out to be too big on the truck for that wheel. Found a set of 1.5" non-hub-centric wheel spacers, and that took care of it.. Wheels aren't sticking out past the fender line, and no rubbing issues on turns or bad country roads with deep ruts. Pretty happy with how well that worked out.
I am considering a used set of 2018 Wrangler wheels, but I have no idea what will fit on my 1997 Silverado 2WD. They are also 5 bolt. I really know nothing about wheel interchangeability, especially with different makes. Any ideas on these?? I can get the whole set cheap.
 

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I am considering a used set of 2018 Wrangler wheels, but I have no idea what will fit on my 1997 Silverado 2WD. They are also 5 bolt. I really know nothing about wheel interchangeability, especially with different makes. Any ideas on these?? I can get the whole set cheap.
If yours is a 5-lug, then it should be 5x5" (5x127mm) bolt pattern. Which is same as Jeep wheels. But, just like in my case, you most likely will need 1.5" wheels spacers, as Chevy center hub is too big in diameter for the Jeep wheel. Just make sure to use non-hubcentric wheel spacers.
 
Looks like my (departed) ‘93 C3500 Sierra, minus the annoying & expensive to feed 6.2 diesel. Weird that it has a Turbo 400, in a half ton, with a 4.3? Had to have been ordered that way, I would have expected a 700R4/4L60.
 
If yours is a 5-lug, then it should be 5x5" (5x127mm) bolt pattern. Which is same as Jeep wheels. But, just like in my case, you most likely will need 1.5" wheels spacers, as Chevy center hub is too big in diameter for the Jeep wheel. Just make sure to use non-hubcentric wheel spacers.
Thanks for the info! Can you just order the spacers on Amazon or Summit? Thanks, Tom
 
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