$2000 truck in 2022

Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
4,041
Location
Ohio
I could be in minority here, but I actually prefer this dash over the one I had in my 1995 Tahoe.

Pretty much comes down to a personal preference thing.
The biggest beef that I had with that style (besides aesthetics) was that they were designed to eliminate options for aftermarket audio systems.
Besides the odd size/styling of the factory unit, if you wanted auxiliary media (which at that time was cassette,) it went in that cubby in the middle of the dash.
From what I remember (haven't seen one in awhile) the refresh was just less awkward.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
4,041
Location
Ohio
It was a little hard to get used too, in fact when I first took ownership of the truck I looked into replacing the cluster but for $800 I decided I could live with the half moon gauges. The worst thing about it is doesn't light up very good.


For eight bills, I'd live with it too.
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2016
Messages
3,489
Location
Northeast Nebraska
Pretty much comes down to a personal preference thing.
The biggest beef that I had with that style (besides aesthetics) was that they were designed to eliminate options for aftermarket audio systems.
Besides the odd size/styling of the factory unit, if you wanted auxiliary media (which at that time was cassette,) it went in that cubby in the middle of the dash.
From what I remember (haven't seen one in awhile) the refresh was just less awkward.
Mine had an equalizer in it below the center vents so I had a stereo shop pull it out and put in an old Kenwood single din I had. The factory radio was not working very good and this was the cheapest resolution. The speakers are the worst I've ever heard, little 4" in the dash and 4x6 in the rear pillars. I'd rather listen to the 5.7.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
4,041
Location
Ohio
It was a little hard to get used too, in fact when I first took ownership of the truck I looked into replacing the cluster but for $800 I decided I could live with the half moon gauges. The worst thing about it is doesn't light up very good.

Does it have any burnt out bulbs in it?
Replacing the bulbs could be a great improvement.
It worked wonders in my old truck.
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2016
Messages
3,489
Location
Northeast Nebraska
Does it have any burnt out bulbs in it?
Replacing the bulbs could be a great improvement.
It worked wonders in my old truck.
No burnt bulbs but they are 33 years old so I bet that would help. Not sure how much more money I want to stick in this old truck, it only has 82k on it but the engine went bad so I found a used crate engine with 12k on it. I also put new rims/tires and a cover on it. Here is what it looked like when I got it in 2014, is has rust above the fender wells and paint is coming off the hood now but it's mechanically sound for it's age.
full-72597-10858-rqcomyf.jpg
 

Nick1994

$100 site donor 2023
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Messages
15,537
Location
Phoenix, AZ
There seems to be three options. 160, 180, and 195 degree thermostats. Seeing how my temp gauge acts, I think it's fair to say that I have 195 degree thermostat installed. I plan to replace it with 160 degree unit. Probably later today, if I have time.
I think you need to stick to 195. Yours probably is really old and doesn’t open correctly or all the way anymore. A lower temp thermostat will make it run rich and too cold. And you’ll have poor heater performance.

I ran a 180 in my ‘96 Jeep and the heater was no good in the winter. In the summer it still ran just as hot, because once the thermostat is open, it’s open.

But on a 350 they are a piece of cake to replace. If mine were that easy I’d just replace it every 2 years just for the heck of it.
 

Graham Piccinini

Thread starter
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Messages
2,647
Location
704
I think you need to stick to 195. Yours probably is really old and doesn’t open correctly or all the way anymore. A lower temp thermostat will make it run rich and too cold. And you’ll have poor heater performance.

I ran a 180 in my ‘96 Jeep and the heater was no good in the winter. In the summer it still ran just as hot, because once the thermostat is open, it’s open.

But on a 350 they are a piece of cake to replace. If mine were that easy I’d just replace it every 2 years just for the heck of it.
On this 262c.i. it's just as easy as a 350c.i. in my 1995 Tahoe was. Especially after I got rid of stock air filter assembly, and put a basic 10" Edelbrock carburetor air filter kit. Provides a lot more access to stuff (like thermostat and sensors) and is a piece of cake to install. Worth the $25 for me. Looks cleaner too. Will replace the paper filter element with a washable one though.
 
Last edited:

wlk

Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Messages
485
Location
Pennsylvania
On this 262c.i. it's just as easy. Especially after I got rid of stock air filter assembly, and put a basic 10" Edelbrock carburetor air filter kit. Provides a lot more access to stuff (like thermostat and sensors) and is a piece of cake to install. Worth the $25 for me. Looks cleaner too. Will replace the paper filter element with a washable one though.
I would stick to 180° or 195°, mine is the 195°. Not sure if you are aware but the tbi needs the warmth of the dumb heater tube in the cold to get help to operate efficiently. You can do as you wish with this as the replacement air cleaner does look nicer. One thing I would check are your grounds, especially the one coming off the firewall going to the frame on the passenger side. It will cut off and die while driving, but will only restart when turning ignition off and back on. It is the ground to the ECU, took me awhile to figure out what was happening to it. Enjoy the truck
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
4,041
Location
Ohio
No burnt bulbs but they are 33 years old so I bet that would help. Not sure how much more money I want to stick in this old truck, it only has 82k on it but the engine went bad so I found a used crate engine with 12k on it. I also put new rims/tires and a cover on it. Here is what it looked like when I got it in 2014, is has rust above the fender wells and paint is coming off the hood now but it's mechanically sound for it's age. View attachment 106894

That is a sharp looking truck.
It's just too bad that the good work on the outside was thwarted by the dash on the inside.
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
2,078
Location
NY
There seems to be three options. 160, 180, and 195 degree thermostats. Seeing how my temp gauge acts, I think it's fair to say that I have 195 degree thermostat installed. I plan to replace it with 160 degree unit. Probably later today, if I have time.
Keep the 195. There are many lookup tables in the .bin which is the computer chip program. The ecu relies on the proper temperature. The fuel and timing will both be affected by a 160 thermostat. Your fuel economy may decrease.
 

Graham Piccinini

Thread starter
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Messages
2,647
Location
704
I would stick to 180° or 195°, mine is the 195°. Not sure if you are aware but the tbi needs the warmth of the dumb heater tube in the cold to get help to operate efficiently. You can do as you wish with this as the replacement air cleaner does look nicer. One thing I would check are your grounds, especially the one coming off the firewall going to the frame on the passenger side. It will cut off and die while driving, but will only restart when turning ignition off and back on. It is the ground to the ECU, took me awhile to figure out what was happening to it. Enjoy the truck
The tube had holes in multiple spots, so not sure how efficient it really was. Rest of the system was more or less a cold air intake, since it took most of the air straight from the passenger fender side. Now it is better looking, but a warm air intake, since it just swallows up warm air straight from the engine bay. Time will show if ability to have more air was worth getting rid of the stock intake system that provided less air in volume, but cooler in temperature.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wlk

Graham Piccinini

Thread starter
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Messages
2,647
Location
704
Got a question for y'all... In case some are new here - vehicle in question is a 1990 GMC Sierra 1500, 4.3L TBI & TH400.
So this radiator is quite nasty inside, flushes with cleaner didn't do much to the rust and buildup. Which makes me think that maybe some of that buildup restricts flow through the radiator possibly... (Have yet to replace the thermostat, will stay with 195.) I plan to cap off the radiator at the bottom and fill it up with vinegar to the brim. Then after a couple days(?) flush it real good and see if that improves the floating temps issue.
The question that I have though is: are c/k 2500/3500 radiators bigger? (from a 454 maybe?) and if they are, would they be a direct bolt on into the 1500? Figured that if I'll have to replace the radiator eventually, then why not go for the biggest one offered?
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
20,917
Location
NH
Not sure bigger is better. I realize the tstat will regulate temperature, so no worries about overcooling. I would be concerned about extra cost and if the hoses and bolts line up. I would think everything would line up, but one never knows.

Id go with the lower cost rad option, v6 or v8. Unless if these were known to be undersized from the factory, I’m not sure much will be gained here.
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2006
Messages
2,169
Location
East Coast
Solid truck for your needs. I’ve scored a GMT400 K1500 w/ 350 V8, Ext Cab, Long Bed 5 years back and have been happy. Parts are inexpensive and they do what they are suppose to. Your setup is pretty basic, not much to break on it so it should last a good while until the rust starts eating away at it.
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
13,107
Location
Cincinnati, OH, USA
Got a question for y'all... In case some are new here - vehicle in question is a 1990 GMC Sierra 1500, 4.3L TBI & TH400.
So this radiator is quite nasty inside, flushes with cleaner didn't do much to the rust and buildup. Which makes me think that maybe some of that buildup restricts flow through the radiator possibly... (Have yet to replace the thermostat, will stay with 195.) I plan to cap off the radiator at the bottom and fill it up with vinegar to the brim. Then after a couple days(?) flush it real good and see if that improves the floating temps issue.
The question that I have though is: are c/k 2500/3500 radiators bigger? (from a 454 maybe?) and if they are, would they be a direct bolt on into the 1500? Figured that if I'll have to replace the radiator eventually, then why not go for the biggest one offered?
They make fairly good, fairly cheap aftermarket plastic/aluminum radiators for them, that's what my '93 had. Might be able to use one with more tubes, & make sure your fan clutch is good, mine would ROAR at coolant temps above 220F.
 

Graham Piccinini

Thread starter
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Messages
2,647
Location
704
Solid truck for your needs. I’ve scored a GMT400 K1500 w/ 350 V8, Ext Cab, Long Bed 5 years back and have been happy. Parts are inexpensive and they do what they are suppose to. Your setup is pretty basic, not much to break on it so it should last a good while until the rust starts eating away at it.
I had a GMT400 K1500, 1995 Tahoe with 350 TBI. Loved it, floor shift 4x4 was great, it's what made me fall in love with GMT400 platform. But no matter how slow, fast, loaded, unloaded I drove it - the MPG stayed glued to 12MPG. I think it hit 13MPG twice in the whole time I've owned it.
Thankfully this 262 TBI averages in 14-17MPG range, and last tank got a hair over 20MPG. Not bad all things considered. Not great by today's standards, but at the time it was good 30-40% more fuel efficient than the 350 TBI powered C1500.
Hopefully not much breaks on it. So far love it.
 

Graham Piccinini

Thread starter
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Messages
2,647
Location
704
They make fairly good, fairly cheap aftermarket plastic/aluminum radiators for them, that's what my '93 had. Might be able to use one with more tubes, & make sure your fan clutch is good, mine would ROAR at coolant temps above 220F.
I've looked at quite a few full aluminum ones, and really debating if it's worth it. Will start with the vinegar soak of the current radiator though, and see how it goes.
 
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,141
Location
FL
I had a 1990 sport side 4.3 with 5 speed, 3.42 gears 31 tires, 22 m.p.g.
The better milage was after a cat replacement using a free flow cat
 

Graham Piccinini

Thread starter
Joined
Jan 4, 2016
Messages
2,647
Location
704
I had a 1990 sport side 4.3 with 5 speed, 3.42 gears 31 tires, 22 m.p.g.
The better milage was after a cat replacement using a free flow cat
My best is 20MPG with the current 31.5" (245/75/r17) tires. Not sure what gear ratio I have anyone able to decipher that one for me?), but it doesn't seem to be very highway friendly. Yet having even higher gears will absolutely earn me the award for the slowest accelerating vehicle in traffic. Having an old school heavy duty automatic 3-speed may also have something to do with the MPG.
 

Nick1994

$100 site donor 2023
Joined
Feb 19, 2013
Messages
15,537
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Got a question for y'all... In case some are new here - vehicle in question is a 1990 GMC Sierra 1500, 4.3L TBI & TH400.
So this radiator is quite nasty inside, flushes with cleaner didn't do much to the rust and buildup. Which makes me think that maybe some of that buildup restricts flow through the radiator possibly... (Have yet to replace the thermostat, will stay with 195.) I plan to cap off the radiator at the bottom and fill it up with vinegar to the brim. Then after a couple days(?) flush it real good and see if that improves the floating temps issue.
The question that I have though is: are c/k 2500/3500 radiators bigger? (from a 454 maybe?) and if they are, would they be a direct bolt on into the 1500? Figured that if I'll have to replace the radiator eventually, then why not go for the biggest one offered?
I'd get a new radiator for $80 with free shipping.

 
Top