2000 5.4L Oil

[solorexpy]

Just bought a 2000 Expedition with a 5.4L a month ago and put in Amsoil XL 5w20 for my first oil change. I have no background on the maintenance performed by the previous owner so along with 5 quarts of oil, I threw in a quart of MMO to clean it up. I plan on changing the oil again in a few months and wanted to get some recommendations from other 2V 5.4L owners. I realize oil is oil for the most part. But, anybody have a good "feeling" about a certain [synthetic] brand. Or, has anyone done UOAs from their 5.4L that narrowed it down for you?

Notice I said "feeling" above. That's what it amounts to a lot of the time, isn't that right? Nothing really tangible, with the exception of a "butt dyno". That's how it always was with me. Amsoil always felt good in my 2007 hemi (as opposed to PU or PP). Haven't changed the oil enough with my Ford to figure out what's best. Thanks!

 

[SwampSurvivor]

5.4s aren't picky at all about oil. Any cheap 5w-20 will make it last 300,000 miles.

 

[MuzzleFlash40]

That 2V 5.4L will work well with any good brand oil Syn or Dino. Use whatever flavor you want in 5w-30 or 5w-20 if you think thinner is better. Stay with reasonable OCI's and it will last a long time.

How many miles on it?

 

[solorexpy]

Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
That 2V 5.4L will work well with any good brand oil Syn or Dino. Use whatever flavor you want in 5w-30 or 5w-20 if you think thinner is better. Stay with reasonable OCI's and it will last a long time.

How many miles on it?


152,000 miles. No oil burning at all.

 

[Brent_G]

They are easy on oil and will run fine on just about anything. Does yours have any piston slap when cold or other noises?

 

[toeout]

Motorcraft 5W-20. Can't beat the price.

I have 2003 E350 van with 2V 5.4. Bought with 160 K, currently at 290K. Uses about 1qt/1200 miles and this hasn't changed during my ownership. I change every 10K because of the fresh oil added. Engine runs and sounds excellent.

 

[solorexpy]

Originally Posted By: Brent_G
They are easy on oil and will run fine on just about anything. Does yours have any piston slap when cold or other noises?


Never heard piston slap, so I'm not sure what that sounds like. It does have a slight tapping at startup that quickly goes away. However, I only drive it on the weekends, so I'm guessing that might have something to do with the oil draining back down to the pan? Or possibly buildup that I'm hoping the MMO will take care of.

 

[OVERKILL]

Well, the MMO has thinned your oil which may not be a good thing for an engine designed around 5w-30 (as the first-gen Modulars were and then back-spec'd to 5w-20).

I would have skipped the additive and just run a good oil at a sane interval.

 

[Errtt]

5 quarts of oil + 1 quart of MMO for a few months.
I don't know but isn't that a little overdose on the MMO?
Seems it will really thin the oil. And if the engine is sludge, what effect will it have over a few months.

 

[MuzzleFlash40]

At 150k, that boy is just getting broke-in. Unless you suspect sludge or something no need to use MMO. Just pick the flavor of oil you like along with a reasonable Oil change interval and stick with it. Any of the major brand oils will perform the same. I will agree though that motorcraft 5w30 is a fine choice for around $18 for a jug at walmart. Castrol synblend is now $16 a jug too. I also suggest using a motorcraft filter, you cant go wrong with it, it is also $4 as well.

Good Luck!

 

[solorexpy]

Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
At 150k, that boy is just getting broke-in. Unless you suspect sludge or something no need to use MMO. Just pick the flavor of oil you like along with a reasonable Oil change interval and stick with it. Any of the major brand oils will perform the same. I will agree though that motorcraft 5w30 is a fine choice for around $18 for a jug at walmart. Castrol synblend is now $16 a jug too. I also suggest using a motorcraft filter, you cant go wrong with it, it is also $4 as well.

Good Luck!


The MMO was used because I didn't know how well the previous owner took care of it. I know a lot of people who use MMO on a consistent basis. I don't see any reason not to. I've used MMO in a different vehicle without issue. Maybe I'll cut back on the use in oil, but continue to use it in the gas.

I actually picked up some QSUD today for about $25 a jug. Got some Wix filters from O Reilly. Thanks!

 

[MuzzleFlash40]

Sounds like you've got a solid plan! That combo will serve you well. Have you changed out the other fluids in it?

 

[solorexpy]

My wife can attest to the hours and dollars spent changing the fluids on this vehicle! So far:

Tranny (pan + tc) - Lucas Oil multi-vehicle ATF + 10oz lubegard
Rear Diff - Royal Purple
Front Diff - Lucas Oil (was cheaper than RP and for the lesser used front)
Transfer Case - Royal Purple
Power Steering - Mobil 1 ATF (old fluid smelled burned and was black). I didn't flush it, but have continued to dilute the system with M1 ATF. Considering replacing the pump but not sure yet what the criteria is for replacing it.

Next up:
Coolant (needs a flush bad, but so far doesn't seem to affect the temps)
Brake fluid (pretty dark)

Bought a used old school superchips tuner on ebay for $60 and it made a huge difference as I expected from previous experience. I bought a K&N, but I'm considering going CAI.

 

[MuzzleFlash40]

I got one of those tuners for my parents 2004 f150 about 7 years ago, it worked great! That factory intake flowed pretty well, a K&N will do just fine. Though a lot of people on here do not like them. I've never had a problem with them.

My wife just rolls her eyes at me when I hit the automotive isle at walmart, so I understand lol.

If the steering doesn't have any dead spots in it or if it doesn't whine (any more than a normal ford anyway) don't worry about changing the pump. Just keep doing the turkey baster method. You might even consider Maxlife fluid it is a synthetic also and has conditioners for older seals.

 

[Jameson]

I too have a 2v 5.4l (2002 F350) and I have heard horror stories about the tunes cooking transmissions.

As far as Oil, I have used M1 full syn, PYB and mobil super HM so far in this vehicle. It runs quieter on PYB and Mobil Super HM, but it ran just fine on m1 full syn. All 5w20 flavor, which is owners manual spec for my truck. 125k miles.....

JC

 

[901Memphis]

If you're going to add MMO you should start out with 5w30 so you don't lower the viscosity too much.

The engine itself needs only oil oil, not additives and will run on any proper api certified oil. If the previous owner took it to a jiffy lube at least every 7,000 miles you should be OK.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Jameson
I too have a 2v 5.4l (2002 F350) and I have heard horror stories about the tunes cooking transmissions.





Unfortunately, Ford trucks of that era had very weak automatic transmissions.

 

[Brent_G]

Definitely get a new PCV valve if you have not already as well. Other than that there really isn't much to worry about beside launching a plug.

For the filter, can you get MC FL-820S cheaper than wix? Have had great luck with them in the few 5.4 trucks we have.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: Jameson
I too have a 2v 5.4l (2002 F350) and I have heard horror stories about the tunes cooking transmissions.





Unfortunately, Ford trucks of that era had very weak automatic transmissions.


Huh? The 4R75W and the 4R100 weren't weak transmissions. However the 4R100 behind the PSD had converter failure issues (dual clutch converter). But was fine behind the gas engines.

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: Jameson
I too have a 2v 5.4l (2002 F350) and I have heard horror stories about the tunes cooking transmissions.





Unfortunately, Ford trucks of that era had very weak automatic transmissions.


Huh? The 4R75W and the 4R100 weren't weak transmissions. However the 4R100 behind the PSD had converter failure issues (dual clutch converter). But was fine behind the gas engines.


We have 4 in service, 3 of which have never seen a fluid change at close to 200k miles in a tow trucks that also plow snow. My truck was not changed until 130k. No failures so far.