1st time K&N oil filter user

[INDYMAC]

On a whim, I stopped by AZ and picked up a K&N #1002 on my way to get my oil changed today. I had planned on just trying another brand of oil (Schaeffers #703) and using the usual Pureone #10241 oil filter. But I figured it was time to try a different filter too. Wow, what a difference in oil pressure! I used to think that the gauge had a lot of lag time, but it seems to have been the filter I had been using that lagged. The oil pressure gauge definitely reads higher now too. It's almost as quick as the tachometer now! I hope the K&N does a decent job filtering too. We'll see on my next UOA. I've been getting 3X higher than average Pb readings on every oil I've tried, so maybe the better oil flow will be the magic elixer.

 

[INDYMAC]

I forgot to mention, it's a 2000 Toyota Tundra V-8 with 131K miles.

 

[daman]

I've read some say it gives up a little filtration for flow
but you;ll be just fine, there good filters just a little
over priced compared to others out there that can and do
a better job...

 

[unDummy]

KN should filter well. It is a great flowing filter when compared to Pureone. Data from Grease's oilfilterstudy is still available from archive.org!

I've fixed some noisy engines simply by using a different filter.

 

[Edmond]

I've used K&N oil filters before. They seem to work well. The 1" hex is a great thing, much easier than trying to use an oil filter wrench.

They're about $10 around here, well worth it in my opinion.

 

[Spector]

Been using them for several years, try AJUSA.com for good mail order prices, usually no shipping fees.
Great flow and I have never found any difference in UOA with various filters I have used, they are all pretty much useless for filtering ability, GO WITH THE FLOW!

 

[LoneRanger]

When I had my 1995 Corvette it would exhibit a slight valve train tap at idle using either a Delco or Wix filter. However, I put on a K&N HP2001 at one oil change and the valvle train tap at idle was gone. Used the HP2001 on it from then on and never had another tap from the valve train.

 

[deven]

Indymac, I have always had great results using the toyota oil filters. I use 90915-yzzd3 which I believe also goes in your vehicle. Both my UOA's on this filter had insolubles of 0.1 and I have a toyota dealer that will sell it to me for $3.50. Its a win-win in my eyes.

 

[Herdfan]

Quote:

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The 1" hex is a great thing, much easier than trying to use an oil filter wrench.

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Yeah, unless it breaks off, leaving just enough weld to make getting a cap on there nearly impossible. I had that happen twice, no more K&N for me.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Quote:

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Yeah, unless it breaks off, leaving just enough weld to make getting a cap on there nearly impossible. I had that happen twice, no more K&N for me.

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Over-tightening a bit???

 

[ekpolk]

I've had great UOA, including low particle counts, with the K&N. A tad pricey, but built like a tank. Herdfan, I'd just have used a strap on it; that should eliminate the cap problem. I think you're overtight too; I've never seen this problem. That would take a lot of torque to shear off.

 

[Herdfan]

No, they were hand tight both times. I also had 3 that never had any problems. Must have been a bad batch or something. This was several years ago, btw.

 

[INDYMAC]

Quote:

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On a whim, I stopped by AZ and picked up a K&N #1002 on my way to get my oil changed today. I had planned on just trying another brand of oil (Schaeffers #703) and using the usual Pureone #10241 oil filter. But I figured it was time to try a different filter too. Wow, what a difference in oil pressure! I used to think that the gauge had a lot of lag time, but it seems to have been the filter I had been using that lagged. The oil pressure gauge definitely reads higher now too. It's almost as quick as the tachometer now! I hope the K&N does a decent job filtering too. We'll see on my next UOA. I've been getting 3X higher than average Pb readings on every oil I've tried, so maybe the better oil flow will be the magic elixer.

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Update: I'm 2500 miles into this OCI and I'm concerned about a little piston slap/knock noise on cold start-up developing during the last week. I haven't heard this noise since the truck was new and I was using dino SJ motor oil with OEM Toyota filters. It would only do it when OAT's were below frezing back then too. Since morning temps are around 75F here now, I need to make a change soon.
What do you guys think? Should I switch out the oil, the filter, or both?
Here's what I have on deck:
Lots of GC Gold and lots of Scheaffers #703 10W30.
K&N HP-1002, PureONE PL10241, and Toyota YZZB5 oil filters.

 

[salesrep]

Run the Schaeffers one more time and change filters.
See what the uoa says.
I would say ccertainly to change one of the variables, but not both.

 

[unDummy]

What oil?

I would make sure engine oil level is perfect. Check it hot 3 minutes after shutdown and top it off as needed.

A filter change would be easy and quick. Change the filter out if there was no oil level issue. Supertech would be an easy choice.

 

[Whimsey]

Indymac,
My money is on the filter as being the cause of the cold start noise. About 5 years ago a friend of mine tried a K&N oil filter on his 2001 F-150 with the 4.6. It was really painfully noisey upon start up. Where as before with the Motorcraft FL820S it was quiet upon start up. He immediately replaced the K&N with another FL820S and the noise went away. Back then I think the K&N's still had the black nitrile ADBV. I don't know what they have today.

Whimsey

 

[INDYMAC]

Thanks for all the inputs guys. I went round and round on what to do, but I eventually put a fresh batch of Schaeffers #703 in, and a PureOne 10241 oil filter on. The PureOne has worked well in the past for me, but the oil pressure is noticeably lower on the gauge. When I got back from disposing the oil, the dipstick read right at the full line 3 minutes after shutdown. I'll check it again cold in the morning. I'll keep you posted on how things go.

 

[Mike_dup1]

From the filter council

Quote:

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can the filter cause low oil pressure?
A: While some pressure drop across the filter is normal, the oil filter is not capable of regulating the lube system pressure. Low oil pressure is generally the result of another malfunction in the engine such as the oil pump losing its prime or the pressure-regulating valve not functioning properly.
Reference FMC TSB 83-2R2

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[Gary Allan]

No one believes me or Pete when we put forth this assertion. Naturally, I tend to qualify it with "assuming a fit and functional engine/oil pump". The filter is all but transparent in use. Any resistance evaporates after the engine passages are fully enveloped. The bypass valve MAY blip upon startup. If your oil pump has excessive internal leakage OR is perpetually in relief, THEN a filter MAY present some resistance UP TO the limits of the bypass valve setting.


..but I'll attempt to communicate the concept one more time.

Take a 6 foot pipe ...make it 100 feet long. Pump water through it. At the 50 foot mark, put a 6 INCH choke. Big choke, huh? Yep. Now put a 1 INCH choke at the end of the 100 foot 6 foot pipe and see how much pressure you drop over the 6 INCH choke in the 6 FOOT pipe. It won't even see it. There will be a slight change in velocity as it transitions through the choke. This will be expressed as a pressure ELEVATION on the PUMP SIDE (assuming that the pump is not in relief).

The engine is the BIG resistance creator in terms of "back pressure". So much so, that the filter, regardless of its density or composition ..whether it's small or the size of a bazooka (and, again, assuming that there is no excessive internal leakage or relief activity from the pump) ..just ain't there.

Now run way heavy oil and have a leaking ADBV ..larger post filter oil passages and a relatively low relief limit ..or one that's null and void in terms of mechanical efficiency ...then you may have to choose a "more free flowing" filter.

..but that is the exception ..and by no means the rule.

 

[INDYMAC]

I certainly am not trying to create a valid scientific agrument against established oil flow theory. All I am trying to convey to folks here is what I have noticed on my very primitive oil pressure gauge. Since I don't have an oil temperature gauge, I'm probably comparing apples to oranges too. But what I perceive to be happening at various random scans of the pressure gauge seems notable, nonetheless. With any and all oil filters that I've used over the last 134K miles with this truck, oil pressure has never been a concern. The readings on the gauge have always read very healthy and appropriate for the load on the engine. But with the K&N filter, the readings seem to be 10-15% higher than all the other filters, even at engine idle. Maybe it's placebo from all the "greater flow" hype associated with the K&N filter, but it appears to be real to me for now.